Current Projects chat and miscellany

There seems to be 4 notches and would lead me to think its this tool that I need

The notches are to remove the freewheel bearing from the freehub unit, i.e. to separate the inner (wheel attached) part of the freehub body from the outer (sprocket attached) part. Don't touch them, you'll break it and never get it back together.

Not sure what Spengle did for freehubs, but that looks like a hybrid HG/Uniglide body minus the usual ¼" loose ball cup and cone bearing, so they may have butchered Shimano FH-6200s to make their wheels. If they did, you have another problem coming once you get the bearing out.

First step is to try to get the end cap off the NDS to see what's up there, presumably another cartridge bearing pressed into the hub shell with nothing else retaining it.If that's so, you can drift the axle out from either end, which will leave the other bearing in situ, then drift out the bearing you have left in place.

What you're probably going to find then is a freehub body attached to the hub shell with a large hollow bolt, similar to the one with which you'll be familiar if you've ever taken a common Shimano HG freehub apart, but instead of the 10mm double hexagon inside which you take off with a 10mm Allen key, there is a spline drive which needs the specific Shimano TL-FH10 to undo.

The bolt is captive in the freehub body (not loose like common HG freehubs), and it has a weird twin-start thread which takes the drive from the freehub rotor to the hubshell, not the fine pitch single start thread which, on HG hubs, serves only to clamp the freehub rotor drive spline to the mating drive spline formed in the hub shell.

TL;DR
You're not going to be able to convert this to fixed, which I suspect is your real question.

I just couldnt afford to keep it ):
really really regret it

Any info on Ambrosio Nexus 60th anniversary rims? Was shopping today and saw them sticking out in a bicycle shop, because hard ano was something that was never to be seen localy so bought them.

On the lookout for a left arm crank, 165mm - black. Due to the ones on Fort being damaged. :(

On the lookout for a left arm crank, 165mm - black. Due to the ones on Fort being damaged. :(

OOF!
Looks gnarly!

Tell me about it PP - was planning to go on the No Beers ride too! :( The day has even improved.

Wanted to finally build my Planet X, but can't cut a steerer - my saw is blunt and all shops in the area are closed. Would anyone have a saw and guide to cut carbon steerer?

I'd expect any DIY big shed to be open today, I got my carbon-specific* hacksaw blade from B&Q

*Draper 19238 or Stanley 15-412 or Starrett 40204

Wanted to finally build my Planet X, but can't cut a steerer - my saw is blunt and all shops in the area are closed. Would anyone have a saw and guide to cut carbon steerer?

Where are you?

n5

Thanks Tester and umop3pisdn got the bloody thing out after cupping the other side of the hub and wacking it politely with the rubber end of some pliers. Was being a bit too careful!
I now have another problem, how to go about creating/modifying the axle so it can be used with the Spnk 'Fixxer'. The Spengle people had to be difficult and use some different bearings and hub system that I have never serviced. The fluidisk was very straight forward and I used the existing NDS bearings/cone etc. only having to thread the dust cap cone for the drive side. Will take some better photos soon

need chorus brakes and tape color for my NOS frame

TL;DR
You're not going to be able to convert this to fixed, which I suspect is your real question.

I now have another problem, how to go about creating/modifying the axle so it can be used with the Spnk 'Fixxer'.

If only you'd asked before buying the wheel.

If only there was detailed information/diagrams of every single dismantled hub in existence then maybe would've decided against buying it. But for the love of hip-hop I decided risk it and go for it.

Did this:

• went to 11-25
  
• swapped for a comfier saddle
  
• tweaked bar/hood position a bit
  
• replaced steel forks with enve road 2.0
  
• replaced gear cables
  
  

Need do this:

• longer or steeper stem*
  
• Park tools PMP-5 frame pump
  
  

*will wait till after my fit with Scheritt.

Rides amazingly well and more comfy than ever.

Let #internetbikefit begin ; )

h8 inline seatposts

If only there was detailed information/diagrams of every single dismantled hub in existence then maybe would've decided against buying it. But for the love of hip-hop I decided risk it and go for it.

There are threads on here where people repeatedly ask about whether the wheel they are thinking of buying can be converted to fixed, and I repeatedly say no, but I don't think Spengle had come up before.

Of course, in theory, any rear wheel with a freehub can be converted to fixed, it's just that anything which doesn't work with the OTP Spnk/Surley Fixxer is far more trouble and expense than it's worth.

^^^Do you regularly use the 11t? I'd have gone 12t for closer ratios.

Amey y u change from max forks? Thought you said they were stiff but comfy?

Also, yellow tape looks a bit lost.

^^I do; its compact btw.

^^ just experimenting

You should see my rank taping skills :P if I get my shit together will swap for a black lizardskin.

I must say that saddle roll is really fucking good; 2 tubes; levers; puncture kit and a quick link in there ^^^^^

Also, bar/shifter angle suggests you need shorter/higher stem, not longer/steeper....

^^I do; its compact btw.

Oh, looked like a 52. Fair enough.

I haz 48T big ring and 12-25 on my road bike
#spintowin

Doesn't look like you need a longer stem, not with that lever angle