Cannondale SuperSix Evo kids bike

Now here is the man that I want in this thread!

Dammit, convince me to bankrupt myself.

p.s. Sirbikesalot - cheers for the heads up on the Pro seatpost, that might be a goer. Not the lightest but if it improves the clamping then it's probably worthwhile. I'm not adverse to the looks of Pro Vibe stems, but I'm not convinced on the clamping system. It's also 5 times more expensive and slightly heavier than a lightweight Kalloy, so probably not worth the outlay.

Yeah, I'm now a bit dubious of the puzzle clamp after looking at the fairwheel test, you can take the logo's off the pro vibe 7s seatposts with some acetone, so doing that with the kalloy it'll all nicely match

Do you know how much the cannondale stem weighs without bolts? I can't really see, but the shape looks fine to me so if its not too heavy I'd be tempted just to take some acatone to it and use ti bolts.

Also fwiw I don't think it looks all that bad. If it were me I'd just switch out the wheels and seat post then ride it until the winter. Then maybe consider changing the colour, etc.

It would be a lot cheaper.

#killjoy

I suspect (but don't know) that anyone who repaints frames professionally would scuff the existing paint and then shoot over the top, so you'd end up with a net gain in weight.

Media blasting carbon fibre would probably be possible with some really soft media, but the "pain in the arse" factor would probably equate to a significant cost.

I'd leave the paint as-is for now and look forward to some thrilling sanding action during the long winter nights that lurk at the end of the year.

In terms of what you want to get from the bike aero will trump weight on the wheel front up to a fairly significant gradient- I've gone for HED Stinger 4's which are 44mm deep for the bike I'll be using on a 21 long/1.5km high climb in June. They're not the last word in lightweight, but they're a good "general use" aero wheel, which works for me. I'm thinking of going back to Zoncolan that same week, which may make me regret that decision, however.

If I wasn't taking the bike to the mountains I'd probably have gone deeper - and heavier.

I took my (relatively heavy) SystemSix down to 6.4kg, then the weight climbed back up as I broke stuff, or went from pseudo-aero to "has at some point seen a wind tunnel".

In it's final form the S6 was 6.76kg, the new bike is ~7.2, but the frame is half a kilo heavier.

Picking up some second hand 404's would drop half a kilo off your bike and give you a big advantage against the wind, then it's a case of looking at each part and balancing weight savings against cost against practicality- the Smud carbon cages would drop 100g, but tie you into one specific bottle (of which I have loads, btw) for example.

^^ I've never bothered weighing it, actually. I don't think it's that much of a boat-anchor tbh, so just getting some Ti bolts might be a good shout.

Yeah, I know this bike will never make it in to porn. I'm content to make it as attractive and quick as possible to race on, until another option presents itself. On the other hand, I'm not too bothered about making it cost me. I'd only spend it on Jagerbombs otherwise.

does the lowest spacer need to be in contact with the frame?

Nothing should touch the frame, unless you have a flexible rubber seal in there somewhere. Any spacer or dust cover needs to be sandwiched between the stem and the upper bearing collet to make the headset work, anything else it does with regard to bearing protection or aesthetics is secondary.

Interesting. I'm pondering tarting up my CAAD9, although I don't have the sizing issues you do. I'm still a T-Rex brotherhood member, however.

Curiously there are CAAD10s and SuperSix Evos with shorter reach and higher stack measurements - a '51' can be had with a 53.4 reach and a 37cm stack which in terms of reach isn't far off your 48. +2mm reach with a further 21mm stack I think, looking at the geo charts. Problem is, they are branded 'women's' and are probably difficult to get in the UK.

my aim for this was a fast race bike on which to train, do medium distances at high pace and eventually get in to racing

This is the bit which everybody recommending expensive wheels seems to be ignoring. If you spend £1k on some carbon bling and then get sent straight back to Shimano R501s for want of money the first time you get involved in a Cat4 pile-up, it's all for nothing. If you're not racing, the 10s per hour you save by getting 60s over 30s is utterly irrelevant.

You can get this special stuff that removes paint from carbon without affecting the resin.... I discovered it when considering stripping and re-painting the Corima but can't remember now. Other common but painstaking practice is to sand the entire frame back to raw before re-painting. Ain't nobody got time for that.

^^ this. I was wondering what this bike was for, too.

This is the bit which everybody recommending expensive wheels seems to be ignoring. If you spend £1k on some carbon bling and then get sent straight back to Shimano R501s for want of money the first time you get involved in a Cat4 pile-up, it's all for nothing. If you're not racing, the 10s per hour you save by getting 60s over 30s is utterly irrelevant.

You're ignoring the awesome noise that deeper rims make.

I think that only works with proper structural carbon rims, not aluminium rims with fairings.

Ah, good point- anyone with some hybrid rims care to comment?

Picking up some second hand 404's would drop half a kilo off your bike and give you a big advantage against the wind, then it's a case of looking at each part and balancing weight savings against cost against practicality- the Smud carbon cages would drop 100g, but tie you into one specific bottle (of which I have loads, btw) for example.

I'm not particularly bothered by adding weight with paint. I'd rather ride a bike I liked the look of, even at a penalty of ~200g or whatever.

For the reason Tester outlined below, I don't really want to outlay too much on wheels until it's truly justified. Also, I'm not going to go absolutely WW til death. For example, I'm fine with my elite cages. They work fine and for the sake of a couple of grams, it's probably not worth the money. I need to be able to ride this bike 5 days a week, so I'm never going to make it unusably light. Just shaving a bit here and there where it's cheap.

This is the bit which everybody recommending expensive wheels seems to be ignoring. If you spend £1k on some carbon bling and then get sent straight back to Shimano R501s for want of money the first time you get involved in a Cat4 pile-up, it's all for nothing. If you're not racing, the 10s per hour you save by getting 60s over 30s is utterly irrelevant.

Hopefully the hybrid rims might stand up to a thrashing a little better than full carbon, although I take your point. There is also the cost and waiting time involved in the 60s which doesn't hold true for the 30s. I could order the 30 rims now, and build them up 20/24 to CX rays on to some decent hubs and have a decent working wheelset for £500 in under a month, probably.

You're ignoring the awesome noise that deeper rims make.

Apparently they sound like a Star Trek warp core at speed, which is a serious selling point for me.

^^ this. I was wondering what this bike was for, too.

Goin' fast.

Why don't you just do that with the flo30's then?

£150 in rims and spokes and getting to keep some nice hubs after a crash when racing is probably going to look a darn site prettier than replacing the flo60 rims and spokes onto what I imagine is not-as-good hubs

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/WPPXF45C/planet-x-ct45-carbon-clincher-wheelset

For anybody contemplating Flo wheels, I've started a thread for people to get together if they want to coordinate purchases

Why don't you just do that with the flo30's then?

£150 in rims and spokes and getting to keep some nice hubs after a crash when racing is probably going to look a darn site prettier than replacing the flo60 rims and spokes onto what I imagine is not-as-good hubs

I'm moving towards that on the strength of this thread, although I can't quite break my intuition that DEEP = PRO

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/WPPXF45C/planet-x-ct45-carbon-clincher-wheelset

Sold out, but also not as wide I don't think. They were definitely on the hit list.

RE: wheel discussion - hub recommendations? Obvious Chris King's would be nice, but what's going to weather a few winters too?

Also worth pointing out that the reason that Flo don't sell the 60/90's as rim only is that they are worried that with other hubs/spoke angles this will rub on the fairing and damage it. Obviously YMMV, but that is something else to take into account

Just pretend you're riding roubaix or are a climber ;) and lie when people ask you about the weight of the rims

I'm very seriously considering hope mono rs' for the flo30's, seem like really good value for money

Or alchemy for absolute weenie-ism, white industries t11's for weenie-ism and strength

wow that is a rank bike given your taste

lololololol

Obvious Chris King's would be nice, but what's going to weather a few winters too?

Well, for longevity, I would say Chris Kings.

For tester approved, joytech/novatech...

I need to find a lightweight post with a small amount of layback, maybe 10mm.

http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.com/images/legacy/bikeradar/categories/cycling/component/seating/seatpost/images/usealiencyclopscarbon-399-80.jpg

I've just had a fiddle with my brakes, and I might actually be alright with an inline with this saddle. Enve here I come.