Brooks Saddles

No. I guess that's the first step, huh? I don't have the proper little spanner but will give it a go.

Thanks

Sorry I didn't see those last two posts when I posted. I'll try and tighten the bolt first.

OK, nut was in full slack position. I put about 1cm of thread through it using a pair of pliers and it's a good deal tighter.

Essentially I'm talking my way through a piece of basic, manufacturer's standard saddle maintenance here. Thanks for reading this far.

Does anyone know what the difference between the Swift and the B17 narrow is in terms of fit?

Swift:
Length: 272mm
Width: 150mm
Height:72mm

B17 Narrow:
Length: 279mm
Width: 151mm
Height: 70mm

I would have thought the width is the main thing, which is basically identical. Does the length have any impact on fit?

Cheers.

Width is definitely the primary consideration, but the shape of the rear can have a lot to do with comfort. Looking at the saddles from the back (on mine anyway) the swift has a more curved top, and so may fit further up between the sit bones than the B17.

http://www.zoomerang.com/Survey/WEB22FN8FV3DSJ

complete survey, get 40% off simples!

^^ cheers.

That kinda makes me think twice. I find the B17 narrow a very good fit.

http://www.zoomerang.com/Survey/WEB22FN8FV3DSJ

complete survey, get 40% off simples!

Just tried it and it doesn't appear to work.
Logged into the Brooks website with the details supplied when you complete the survey, prices the same as usual.
Took it all the way to inputting my card details (didn't).
No disco cunt

#ProbablyDoingItWrong

you can usually get Brooks products cheaper from other websites in the UK - plus you have to pay for shipping on Brooks products from their website

Got to be better than any Charge Saddle!!

I made a Brooks saddle a bit more theft-proof today. Good old chain + heatshrink tube technique.

• Clean an old chain first then, saddle in position, measure chain length, break chain to the right length, then lower the saddle,
  
• Slip the chain into a 12.7mm heatshrink tube (colour of your choice, will prevent scratches on both frame & saddle rails) which is at least 3cm longer than the chain length, pull the heatshrink back, put the chain & heatshrink tube through both rear stays and saddle, push the link back into the chain.
  
• Slide one end of the heatshrink into the other end, use a hairdryer to shrink the tube onto the chain, put the saddle back to its original height.
  
  

Once it is done, it should look as good as this:

But someone could nick your saddle armed with only a chaintool and spanner, rather than bolt cutters through a normal chain, which the police could arrest them as going equipped for theft.

But someone could nick your saddle armed with only a chaintool and spanner, rather than bolt cutters through a normal chain, which the police could arrest them as going equipped for theft.

This still helps avoiding opportunistic theft. I guess they could steal the full bike...

Stephen, they also could nick the handlebar armed with a mere allen key and cable cutter, they also can take off the pedals with only a spanner.

Point being as Vince said, it's to wary off opportunistic theft which are more of a problem.

Exactly. Especially when a 2nd hand Brooks should easily get you a quick £20-40.

Fair enough on the opportunist thief thing, absolutely, but a regular lock chain would be easier to put on and more secure.

More secure? I'm somewhat doubtful of that considering you'd need a small enough chain to fit through the rail, not to mention an extra piece of weight to carry, and also be redundant as something to lock your bike with.

The chain option is the strongest and cheapest option of keeping your saddle secure, bar the old ball bearing option.

Does anyone have good ways of using the empty space between the leather and the rails for storage?
At the moment I sort of stuff a bundle of my mini-pump, tyre levers, allen keys etc in there and hope it doesn't slip out again.

I would not really put a lots in that space as it's likely to rubs against the leather when you ride it.

Especially when their leather stretch overtime into a more hammocky shape.

The Brooks website is absolutely baffling. It just spews out a load of saddles at you and gives you a little paragraph about some of them but not others and describes the Colt as:

First produced in 1979, the Colt became famous among Brooks fans for its strength and durability. The Colt was discontinued amidst mysterious circumstances a few years ago, but still remains a common sight on roads and avenues.

But still has it for sale...

I have no idea what to get. I have an old B17 but wanted something a bit more streamlined looking (Swallow?). Now I'm just confused and can't get it to show me prices in £.

YOU'VE BEATEN ME, INTERNET!!!

Hmm sounds odd, I use to have a swallow but it was so uncomfortable and not actually that light, I used it to commute but after about 6 months it offered no support!! It didn't look that great either, it was too long, I sold it and bought a Team Pro Classic. a lot more comfortable and really minimal.

People who like the Colt saddle have never actually used one.
Just go for a Pro or one of the upper level B17s.

Yeah I will now. Cheaper as well. I'll just stick with what I know. Is there a real difference between the various B17s. Obviously the narrow is narrower...

The B17 Special is the one that I like best, though I've only tried that and the B17 Standard, B68, B66 and an early painful experience with a series of NOS B15s that I found in a LBS in the late 80s.

The B15s tend to be more slender and racier where the B17s are more tourer-style and wider. The comfort of both is about the same though.