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Reader's, from across the pond.

Close. Pedals still not at 3 and 9, setup good otherwise.

I'd use a tripod and close the aperture a notch or two to sharpen things up a little more too.

Fair point. I've got some cheap mech discs in the parts bin with the intent to use them, but I guess they are pretty cost effective nowadays, and bleeding isn't as intimidating as I once recalled it being after a couple instructional vids.

Anyone care to chime in on rough length for their front hose on a Mini-Max? Want to sort out if most stock length 850-1000cm for a front brake will do, even if it might be blaringly obvious that it probably won't.

Got an Omnium Classic inbound. What's the word on using mech disc for the front? Too much friction with all the cable bends or par with a rear brake?

Some minor wrenching done on the prettiest bike I don't ride enough

If you just want to toss the chain onto the bailout ring a couple of times a day and don't mind how awful dragging it back up onto the main ring is when you go over the crest, then go nuts.

Can confirm, shifting was pretty terrible and thus done as infrequently as possible.

Inner ring was bumped back to a 28 from 24, 16t spread on the dot and improved shifting even on these rings.

from reddit

Aye you'd be correct

Reader's

@spotter Looks like Surly's gone and owned up to the inherent design flaw that caused your wreck a while back.

https://surlybikes.com/index.php/blog/post/important_safety_notice_surly_8_pack_and_24_pack_racks

everything was so right until the upside down headlight

Aye Canada, Southwestern Ontario to be exact.

Grocery getter, now with dynamo goodness. Still need to throw on a rear dyno light though.

Makes sense, might be better to stick with a chain and a full length chain guard instead? Replacing a chain once or twice a year and doing some minor upkeep is still easier than a full on derailleur setup.

I recall reading that earlier model Wolverines had the same issue of not being able to handle the constant tension requirements of a Gates drive and would crack at the chain stay for a similar reason.

I support the move, it'll be absolutely rad to have a fully custom Tradesman complete with belt drive and a Rohloff.

Frankly it sounds like this is you one, single, do-all bike that you plan to have for years to come. If that's the case it makes sense especially given that you can still cycle tour or go on longer trips should you want. This'll be the do-all bike of do-all bikes.

No, bought it off a local fellow online.

Oh neat! Where in Canada you headed?

grocery bike done

Unloaded it handles like a fat pig on stilts, although that also might have been caused by not enough pressure in the tires. Haven't ridden it unloaded since airing 'em up.

Did so to get a lower trail number for better front load handling. Loaded up it's pretty nice. Still different from a typical high trail bike. Other bonus is more room for a larger bottle underneath the DT, although not enough chainring/crank clearance to keep the Blackburn cage underneath for some Nalgene carrying.

Also, last rack and dynamo tail light fitted. This thing is prepped for proper carry everything touring.

Lots of bolts going on with the front end, and nearly every braze-on on the bike is in use. It's great.

Crust 65mm offset Evasion fork.

Rings are 38/24, was running 44/28 before a chainring swap hence the odd mech placement. It's friction so it can be made to shift regardless but not as nicely as it would if properly set up, and the lower bottle bolt is preventing such.