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My Anywhere Mount has never slipped, but I rarely ride this Vigorelli in the rain.

This is the SKS Anywhere Mount

Normal clincher GP5000 are a lot easier to install than TL versions. I haven’t tried the new S TR, but they should be easier to fit than the “old” TL.

Steel Vigorelli seatpost clamp is 33,1mm. I replaced the oem one with this Gusset clamp:
https://www.gussetcomponents.com/shop/seatposts-clamps/clench-seatclamp/

I later installed a 33,0mm KCNC Road Lite SC7 which has a lip that has to be filed smaller to fit a 31,6mm seatpost. It’s probably designed for a thicker aluminum frame and a thinner post, but it is 9 grams lighter than the Gusset clamp!

How about G-One Speed in 2.0”, they have a V-guard puncture protection which the 2.3” Speeds don’t have.

Pirelli Cinturato Velo.

GP5000TL are a really tight fit. I could not get them to seat properly on Mavic Open Pro UST rims even with ridiculous pressures. Pirelli Cinturato Velo and Schwalbe G-One Allround & Speed Evolutions were a lot easier to fit. Conti GP5000 standard non tubeless were an easy fit also. I would not want to use a tubeless tyre with a tube because they usually do have thicker sidewalls and with a tube will most probably roll slower and be more uncomfortable than a comparable standard clincher. On the other hand Pirelli claims that Cinturato can be used with a tube or tubeless...

I have narrow shoulders so I have a 40cm bar. It’s just wide enough that my shoulders fit between the drops, so maybe slightly wider than the traditionally recommended width.

Edit: I had a 42cm bar before these and I think they both have positives and negatives. Wider is of course more stable and gives more leverage which is good for smashing up hill on a heavy gear ratio.

I’d recommend the Cinelli Dinamo bars, very light for an alloy bar and not too expensive. I have one, I did get some creaking with my X2 stem on rough riding, an X4 stem fixed that. The 2 bolt face plate just can’t grab the bars as strong.

That is actually cheap enough to try. I was only aware of the Jtek Double Control and Problem Solvers Brake Cable Doubler, but they cost about ten times more.

Am I seeing some kind of two levers for one brake system? If so, what is it?

I cracked my cradle at recommended max 5Nm torque. Elita One did send me a replacement. Also the seatpost did get some indentation marks at 5Nm. Maybe my torque key is out of spec, but these Elita Ones are so light that you have to be careful not to over tighten.

I have a similar straight version bought from eBay. It’s probably the same tool, I have used it a few times at home and it hasn’t broken yet. It is short for leverage, but I have managed to open my hub bolts pressing with my foot. I keep it in my seat bag if I will need to fix a puncture.

Has anybody managed to remove the logos from these cranks? I tried some nailpolis remover Acetone, but it didn’t seem to do anything.

They have been working perfectly with the Dura-Ace bb. The spindle was a tight fit to get installed through the bearings, might be because of my first diy bb shell facing. I think that the rubber O-rings is not a perfect solution for pre load, because bb shell width will affect pre load tightness, and with time the rubber rings will degrade. However, after a few hundred kilometers the bb has gotten alot smoother than it was on the first install, and seems ok. Probably just thick factory grease on the bearings. I only noticed the difference in the bb smoothness while changing chainring bolts, not when pedaling. I think that these cranks will only work with the road type HT2 bb’s because the MTB bearings are different width as far as I know.

You’re not gonna find a disc fork that has similar rake and a2c with a track fork. Any fork that will take a 32mm will have more rake and be taller.

I installed the Pistard 2.0 cranks with a Dura-Ace R9100 bb. Chainline = 42,5mm.
Weights:
165mm Cranks = 622g
48t chainring 101g
Chainring bolts 20g

I was told on Weightweenies-forum that these use a wave washer for preload. On to the next question, is the chain line true to specs 42.5mm?

I’m intrested in the Pistard 2.0 cranks. If these take a Hollowtech II bb, I dont see any kind of preload adjuster or spring in any pictures. How do you adjust the preload? Or do these attach to the non drive side bearing like Omniums do?
Anybody have any measured weights of these cranks?

I think I have a 2017 frame. It’s the electric steel yellow/red/black one.

G-Ones measure almost exactly 30mm @ 4 bars. There’s about 2 or maybe 3 mm clearance. I tried 28mm GP4000, and they were oversized, nearly 32,4mm and would rub while mashing uphills out of the saddle. GP5000 28 fit fine, they are not oversized, I can’t remember exact actual size. You can’t slam the rear wheel with probably any 28mm tyre, it will rub on the brake stay.

The steel Vigorelli frame and fork can easily fit 30mm G-One Speeds on 19mm internal width rims tough. I know it’s a lot less than Rollers can take, but just if someone’s interested about Vigorelli’s clearances.