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A very sad day, to let go of a huge part of my life, but hopefully just as my bike journey started with a second hand BMX, this shall be the beginning of something for the next generation.
I pulled the bike out of my dad's loft over lock down and has a few sessions in the clissold Park bowl before realising I can't maintain yet another hobby. I replaced the chain, bb, and rear tyre to get it working. The grips and seat could be replaced but otherwise it's ready to ride
Frame: Mutiny Cosmotron 21.2 - a bit rusty (a nice patina) but structureally sound.
Fork: united diner (v good condition)
Front wheel:amity
Rear wheel: primo (makes a great noise 10/10)
Fly bikes stem
Shadow cranks
Profile racing sprocket
Gusset pedals
Odyssey aitken front tyre
Brand new bb, brand new chain, brand new rear United tyre.The frame does have the ability to fit a brake but you would need to buy some hardware.
I need this gone before Xmas
Pick up clissold Park
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Fitted. They are quite nice. They didn't come with all the hardwear but luckily I had some correctly sized m5 bolts with suitable caps. I had to hack a couple of areas: I had to bend the fork attachment as it was interfering with my headset, and I also had to find an extra long m5 bolt and add a few spacers so that the fender would not hit my front derailleur (so I can get into my granny gears). Other than that they're pretty smart and will hopefully keep my ass dry(er)
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Some new wheels laced up with kinlin 31 hoops courtesy of @broken_777
Straight gauge spokes and some deore hubs. Nothing fancy is the name of the game.Been a while since I laced wheels but after ordering the wrong sized spokes at first (calculated for 2 cross but needed 3 Cross), everything went pretty smooth.
I tried lacing them 2 cross but with the straight gauge spokes there was too much interference. :(
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Im not sure about that - im no expert at all, but taking a look at the cutaway on this page https://www.dtswiss.com/en/innovations/ratchetexp (the new 240 uses the same technology I think) indicates that you still need to remove the ringnut to get at that bearing. I might be missing something though.
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they require a ring nut removal tool to get at the drive side bearing - also if you dont service these semi regularly then they can be a real pain to remove, even when you do have the tool.
I bought a set of quite old 350s off here recently and the rear needed a bearing replacement, but after doing the non drive side I tried to do the drive side and couldnt get the ring nut out. However after re-assembly the hub feels way better. I think the non drive side obviously gets a lot more wear due to it being closer to the water and grime etc.
I think the free hub bearings look pretty easy to replace too - thats the next job for me
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Progress!
Thanks shipwright for the chain length tip. And I'm confident in the brake cable bodge. No structural change just a few mm off the top.
I've got the new chain on and the brakes all sorted out. However it took about 20 mins of confused googling to figure out that my front derailleur is a top pull type, and therefore can not be used with my frame (which routes the fd cable under the bb). I've never come across these before.
Anyway I went on a quick dash around the block and everything else feels good.
Great deal on these!