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Do you get any steam from the wand? If you do then it could be the solenoid is blocked especially if you are in a hard water area.
http://reedsmeals.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/overhaul-of-gaggia-classic-espresso.html
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From what I understand the static could be a build up of oil, the type of beans, and the heat generated by the grinder. Giving the grinder a good clean may help although I found with the Vario that it didn't always solve the problem hence using the cup trick.
The Mignon sounds a better grinder than the Vario if you ignore the clumping problem (which is relatively minor). The burrs are really expensive on the Vario and the lever slippage is quite annoying to say the least.
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Quite common for the solenoid to get blocked on the Classics. I just used the Tesco Ashbeck water to avoid the scale issue. Info on unblocking:
http://reedsmeals.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/overhaul-of-gaggia-classic-espresso.html
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We had similar thoughts since the free insulation was laid across the beams rather than inside them. In the end we had the insulation relaid (and slightly squashed) and put loft boards back on top. The loft legs are lightweight which is why they are recommended but it looked a pain to actually put them down. Timber was out of the question due to the increased weight on the beams. Obviously we have lost some of the effectiveness of the insulation but it means we can use our loft for storage.
The loft boards aren't that big (due to having to fit them through the loft hatch) so you couldn't probably just stand them up in the passenger seat area.
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Happy Donkey sell their own. I have a Motta that I bought from http://www.creamsupplies.co.uk/index.php?searchStr=tamper&act=viewCat although they don't show as being 53.5mm so I wouldn't risk it (Cream Supplies are a good company mind).
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It could be a blocked solenoid if it is a hard water area. The water travels through a tiny pin hold which can get blocked by bits of limescale. It is a bit of fiddly job but there are plenty of guides on how to do it.
First step would be to do what lynx said and check the group head and give a good clean.
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I'm using the OL motor primarily because I got fed up with lifting the platter then moving the belt to change speed. My deck started off as a P3 2000 but the only original parts are the tonearm, lid and bearing sleeve. In hindsight I would have waited for the P3 24.
Agreed about Systemtek decks. I used to own a Thorens TD150 which sounded excellent but they are no longer the bargain they once were.
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I think I paid more but it was a few years back