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Sorry. This went. Forgot all about this.

Price dropped. All serious offers welcomed...

Updated, sorry

Unused bomb-proof rear track wheel, hand-built by DCR wheels.

36h Phil Wood low flange track, fixed/fixed, black.
36h Velocity Synergy 700c MSW black.
Sapim Race silver.
2015 Schwalbe Durano Plus 25c and tube.

Cost nearly £400 all in.
Would accept offers around £250 inc. shipping.

Also -
36h Phil Wood low flange track front, black. (£100)
Phil Wood 19t cog. (£40)

All unused and open to offers, including wombo combos.

£40 delivered to UK address.

I've loosely put it on a hub, but it's not been tightened nor seen a chain. Factory fresh.

PayPal only.

Last chance before eBay... Will consider sensible offers...

p&g!?

p&p.

I'm slowly sourcing parts for my first build, but have hit a cash flow issue.

The hub has never been laced up, and comes in the original red netting stuff and box. My ma was in the states a few months ago so I got her to get me one from AVT whilst she was out there. I'll pop the receipt in with the hub too.

Will be buying an identical one once the finances are back up to healthy, but in the meantime have to say goodbye to it... This is better than a payday loan for sure.

£110 + £5 p&g

Good shout!

Cheers

As I say, I want something I've designed, rather than just a piece of plastic. Pure form; unavoidable function.

I'm keen on the idea of designing a plastic top tube protector; something I can just snap on to my bike, with a few custom cutouts for general prettiness.

I appreciate this is more a question for a printers, but I cba trying to explain what a top tube protector is, or needs to do, eloquently enough to get the answers I need.

First off, do printers kick out the kind of plastic flexible enough to snap on to a tube tightly? Would I need to look for a specific material to do this?

Secondly, will it be hardy enough to take the odd impact from flailing bars?

Also, what kind of cost am I looking at for printing from a completed 3d file? It wouldn't need to be more than 3 or 4mm thick and about 80 x 80mm were it flat.

Would really appreciate some input, thanks.

I found this pic on the web (not my mucky mitts) which kinda is how the main thing would look, though with a narrower gap.

Just to draw a line... MashSF say with no uncertainty that it's 165mm all the way on anything below the 55cm parallax, but that 170mm do fine on a 55cm+

(And ftr your opinion on the bikes really is not a part of this thing)

...

Old but good

With clipless though I see... I'm not sure I'm ready for that yet, I'd imagine clipless (and accompanying shoes) give you a few degrees on both sides.

Is that on a parallax?

I've still not had the response I'd secretly hoped for, that being a confident testimony - perhaps with proof, that on the parallax the difference between a 165 and a 172.5 Is academic.

I have no big issue adapting, I'm sure the ride will differ from my S&M Holmes in plenty of ways other than just cranks.

Will do. The user content on this forum has been a great help in doing my best to avoid those first-build fails.

I rode BMX throughout the mid-late 90s, and have barely ridden since. Although confident I can still stay upright, I'm coming to it fairly fresh.

I had 180s on my BMX, but didn't use the saddle beyond something to clamp my knees around.

Im preparing to adapt to a new discipline; just want to make sure I do so with as little sliding out as possible.

I do have a soft spot for NJS-style specimens; but since seeing the parallax, have found it hard to not want one.

Every pic makes me want to jump on one and rag it.

That's good to hear. Thanks to you both

I just keep thinking about this

I'm sourcing parts for my first fixed build, and have my eyes on a Mash Parallax. As a longer-legged fellow, my heart says I might find a longer crank a little comfier.. What are people's experiences of using anything over 165mm?

Pedal strike is my main concern, but overlap too could be an issue. I have size 11 feet, and am looking at the XL frame.