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There's a lot of over-reaction on here. As someone who has no plans to live anywhere, use the roads, get ill or have an accident, send my kid to school, or give a shit about anyone but myself I am confident that everything'll be really good over the next 5 years.

Bump... could be tempted by some kona project 2's, or onzasomethings.

I've got two related questions.

Will my C96 in red with Time carbon forks look OK with a Mutant stem that I couldn't resist buying at Ripley Bike Jumble a couple of weeks back?

Anyone wish to offer me a nice stem suitable for said job. 1" threadless (ideally, could do 1 1/8 with shim), 100mm long, that one that WimVDD posted looks acceptable!

For a 1997 Specialized Rockhopper in red. Could be interested in -

orginal specialized rigid forks - red ideally, perhaps black or white
or
cheap as chips alternative
or
reasonable price and condition suspension forks - good quality, ideally fox cos i like fox forks. 9mm QR, must be v bake compatible.

Also any tips on correct geometry welcome... I reckon circa 80mm travel.

Post or can collect in london. If cheap option collection preferred to keep costs down.

Nice. TSX is desgned for professional use and is marginally lighter than SLX from what I have read.

I am not for one second saying don't check. And I totally agree that looking can negate the need to indicate. But I do think indicating clearly is a damn good idea, and I also know that on a normal road with one lane in each direction indicating right does give an driver behind you an obligation not to overtake. If you can see the oncoming road is clear, and you indicate clearly then wait a few seconds, then if everyone on the road is doing what they should you are safe to turn right without looking because it is a breach of the highway code to overtake a road user indicating right. Bad idea because being right is not much use if you're dead.

Changing lanes is different as I don't believe that you have any right to change lanes ever unless you have checked it is safe to do so - but we were talking about a right turn I thought.

sniffy... you said "not peaceful". A definition of peaceful is "not involving violence" - the moment you said "not peaceful" you suggested it was violent.

My final words on the matter. I pretty much agree with most of what is on this thread, but I dislike the idea that the victim's family should have some sort of rights over how others respond to a death on the roads (which I believe was inferred or implied by some, intentionally or not), because that death affects us all, not just the family... but obviously others should respond more sensitively than this guy does.

You're all 90-99.99% right, argument over.

Fair enough. I do get where you are coming from in terms of you having a right to dislike and slag off someone who is a bit of an arsehole, and a right to dislike what he does. What I disagre with is the suggstion that he does not have a right to peacefully protest unless he has the victims family's support. He should be a lot more sensitive and considerate, but every single one of us has the right to take another cyclist's death personally and protest as we see fit in response The victims family do not have a right to tell this guy he can't protest, which is what some on here seem to be inferring or implying. (Leaving it a week or two, perhaps after the date of a small family-run vigil, and protesting the site of the collision without mentioning the victim's name would seem to me to be the right thing to do if there is no support from the family, but the guy still has a right to block the roads where the collision happened if he wants, ,imo.)

It is a peaceful protest. Disruption is not violence.

If you believe that the protest is counter-productive then obviously you have a right to campaign against it, and another reason to dislike the organisers, but I stand by my point. I share your reservations but I struggle to see how peaceful protest can attract so much ire when the cause is such a good one.

I dislike the gneral tone of this thread which seems to me to be suggesting that this guy is wrong to eercse his right to peacefully protest and encourage others to do the same. He might be an arsehole. He should probably get full consent from the families or wait two weeks and then protest the site not naming the victim. But he still has a right to peacefully protest which is absolute - certainly greater than other people's rights to tell him where and when and how to peacefully protest.

I agree - that said any driver should be overtaking wide and at a decent, safe speed (meaning that the will not hit someone turning right unless they do it suddenly) or driving a safe distance back so that they do not hit an idiot who onl signals and does not check.

As an individual I try to cycle as well as I can and both signal and look, because not looking is dangerous. As a member of the cycling community I believe that signalling and moving slowly to the right without looking would be perfectly safe if ever driver drove as they should.

I have a lot of sympathy for the variety of views on here. I have big reservations about die-ins and it would seem to me to be common courtesy, at the very least, to consult properly with family members of the deceased and take some significant account of their wishes.

What does surprise me though is how someone can attract quite so much hatred for simply exercising his rights to peacefully protest about anything he wishes any way that he wishes, especially when the cause is one that everyone on here agrees with. Surely the issues are dangerous roads and trucks and drivers - someone organising die-ins might be a bit distasteful or not your thing but a distasteful protest is of next to zero importance when compared to the actual issue - safety.

What?

Surely if you are not going to look over your right shoulder (which itself is a form of indication that you might wish to turn right) then you have a much greater need to indicate before turning right?

Are you advocating not signalling properly because lots of bad cyclists indicate properly? To a large extent indicating properly is what you do to ensure that there is a safe space to move into as the moment you indicate you are obliging everyone behind you to stay back and not overtake? (Obviously looking over your shoulder is a f'ing good idea too).

I'd await more informed answers than mine but my gut feel is that you could do a lot worse if you want to but a complete Colnago with very useable parts to enjoy and ride. If, however, you are planning to upgrade the thing (whether to all new parts or all original, or just a nice matching groupset) then by the time you flog bits off you'd have been better off just buying a frame and forks.

Do you ask your customer's permission before photographing their bikes and posting them online? If a bike is locked up in the street then it is fair game... if they have entrusted it to your care then I hope you have asked them.

I have one... 100mm. Good order. pm me your email address with an offer and I will consider. Obviously I am happy to send photos. Happy to post. I also have a set of Dura Ace bars v v good order.

No thanks to either I'm afraid. I have a set of 140mm travel Fox Vanillla forks which I can use (they need to come off another bike that I'm planning on giving a radical overhaul to first)... and if I were to decide to get an XC bike it would be almost certainly not be steel and would be a 'pure' XC bike.

Whilst we're talking sales though, I have a Cannondale M600 Frame and original Pepperoni Forks w/ useable (just) headset, seatpost and stem that needs to go. Light as... main problem for me is that the forks are 1 1/4" (not tapered) which means a new 1 1/4" headset. pm me or search ebay in a few days!

My issue with SRAM is the push push which seems much more awkward to use... the majority of that may well be down to the fact that I'm used to Shimano, but I think that it is also just more dfficult full stop. It is much more awkward sticking you thumb in a small gap than it is use a fnger which is just sitting there waiting to shift. I'm answering my own question here... my experience on SRAM is 2 miles. I liked the crisp shifting and strong springs but I really didn't like the experience of using the shifters. I suppose what I wanted was someone to say if you're used to shimano and didn't like SRAM on first use then just stick to Shimano.

My issue with the PA is that it was bought with 100mm forks already fitted. I quite liked the more XC feel that having 100mm forks gave me compared to being used to 140mm travel on my main MTB... but obviously if I want an XC bike I should buy an XC bike, and if I want to find out how nice a PA is to ride I should fit the right forks on it and then judge it.

I just stumbled upon Stevie Churchill OSS 2014 and searched here... seems it was posted and discussed 10 months back. Disagree with BMXED and Dakin... obviously its each to their own, but I generally find street vids a bit dull. Don't get me wrong, I like watching them and despite not being much of a BMXer it is BMX vids, including street, which inspire me to get on a bike (BMX or other). It's just that there is only so much you can get out of another rider sliding down another rail... whereas Stevie Churchill is on another level. Really enjoyed it.

Quick questions... Norco Fluid? Any good as a first full sus? Strengths? Weaknesses?

SRAM shifters... is it possible to get used to them if you've spent 20 years with Shimano?

Dialled Prince Albert... designed for 120-140mm travel forks... how would it ride with 100mm travel forks... any merit in riding one with 100mm of travel or would you go for a quick upgrade ASAP?

I might have something but it does not have horizontal drop-outs. If you want a very light Bianchi with non-original forks and non-horizontal drop-outs then let me know.

I'd advise anyone who wishes to take up BMX to buy something complete off ebay. Get something worth £200 to £300 new for £100 in good nick if you are patient. Cranks are the big thing to then upgrade IMHO and you want 48T splined, definitely not one piece and pref not 8 spline shit.

My BMX was spotless when I bought it second hand... I changed the grips for some I had lying around, stuck on a decent crankset, some pegs... job done. Some teenager clearly wanted to get into BMX but clearly gave up after riding to the shops once.

I'd build up what you have as cheap as possible if I were you, then get something a touch better / more modern.

If the bike was a decent quality one with actual bearings and stuff and those bearings are now bugger fucked then don't moan here, open a case on ebay/paypal.

I'm perhaps making massive presumptions but it sounds like you bought a balance bike, weren't too happy with the quality so are having a whinge. In which case, either go to a shop so that you can see the bike you are buying or buy a new one off tinternet such that distance selling regs apply and you can return if you aren't satisfied.

Don't buy used on ebay then moan coz they quality int all that.

I didn't open a case on ebay because, having driven 10 miles to get there to collect, I was of the opinion that the price was a good one for the item and I would rather take it for the price I won it at than open a dispute and try to get my money back. Interestingly the seller had demanded payment via paypal "because I hate it when people turn up and haggle". I should have realised this meant he hates people who win items he lists msleadingly and then take issue.

I presume that you agree that ebay listings should be accurate whether or not the end price is fair or cheap?

You are making massive presumptions.

Since my original post I tried to take off the front wheel - one of the wheel nuts is rusted pretty much tight. It took me 15 mins to take off the front wheel and now I need to strip the wheel to stick the centre of the axle in a vice to try to get the worst of the wheel nuts off (to clean it up and see if it'll go back on). The wheel is maybe salvageable with an hour's labour and maybe a new axle and bearings... and maybe I need a new one.

The interesting thing here is to note that that in an entirely unrepresentative and tiny survey 100% of respondents pretty much said that working order means "does it basically do what it is supposed to, even if it does it badly?" and "perfect" before "working order" means nothing - it can be stuck in front of "working order" for marketing purposes but implies nothing extra about condition.

It is not the biggest problem ever and I left positive feedback because I was overall happy (but in many respects I feel bad about doing that because the guy is a liar on his listins so deserves negative feedback).

I was curious to hear opinions. It seems to me that people seem to think that "perfect working order" is the same thing as "a bit fucked but basically works". People seem to think that just because many balance bikes are shit one shouldn't expect a good quality one described as "perfect working order" to be in "perfect working order". People seem to think that misleading listings are fine so long as the end product is good value.

Fair enough, I'm the mad one.

But seriously, your responses do help me understand why people would be quite happy to lie on their listing and not feel guilty about it.

Mmmm... I disagree. I would say that "working order" would be that the moving parts move and the non-moving parts stay still. I would say that "perfect working order" means that the moving parts move freely and exactly as they should - perhaps as if they were new or had just been serviced.

The headset and rear wheel are alright and very useable, spin pretty good but a little rough... working order not perfect working order. The front wheel's bearings are pretty tight (and possibl fucked) meaning that the front wheel barely completes 2 revolutions if you spin it freely by hand. I'd argue that this is 'useable order' as opposed to 'working order' (and I'd have some sympathy with someone saying that it is not even useable - a balance bike is meant to encourage cycling not leave kids hating two wheels because it is a struggle). It is certainly not 'perfect working order'.

Why use the word "perfect" before "working order" other than to say "this is not just working, it is working to perfection"? Surely if the moving part is a bearing designed to move freely then working order is "moving freely". Surely if you want to describe it as perfect working order it should be moving freely and also smoothly?

The guy really pissed me off... fucking moron... I genuinely would have paid double the price in its current condition, but the stupid fucker has managed to flog it for £20 less than he could have got whilst also pissing the buyer off.