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is the seatpost aluminium?
If so i wouldn't use caustic soda, it takes too long.
Use brick and mortar cleaner (available from B&Q). Melted a aluminum BB shell completely out of my steel frame in a day. Frame will need painting after as it dissolves the paint. Caustic took 4 days and did hardly anything.

Hi all,

I am looking for some adjustable rear dropouts for a Look KG381/481/386.
Mine are currently fine but i would like a spare.

Would anyone know where I can find a pair. I have tried Zyro and they have none available.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Is it a carbon frame. I have had it in the past where a normal sounding chain can be exceptionally loud as it resonates through the carbon.

what length is the axle please?

Is the PW BB still available?

Probably best if you put what size you are looking for.

You can drill the fork. I wouldn't advise it however. Unless you're know the layup of the carbon fibre it could be a accident waiting to happen. If the carbon hasn't been layed up in such a way to deal with the stress of a brake calliper then a small drilled hole could turn into a broken fork quite quickly.

I agree with @Hefty. Strip is down and remove the BB. Re grease and refit. Same with chainset and pedals. Is it a square taper BB?

Is the mech hanger straight?

Sorry have just seen that it is square taper. Worth giving that a try.

Is it a square taper?? If so take both cranks off and rotate 90 degrees. This can help if the axle is worn slightly.

I wouldn't risk it either. There is a possibility that the fork may become damaged and cause a weakness. I know that if I was to suffer a carbon failure due to a weak spot I wouldn't want it to be the fork.

I would check the chain line properly before replacing anything.
Izumi chains can be noisey also but it's somewhat a small con for a nice strong chain.

Worst case I have one if your local to Croydon.

Speak to people in the motor trade and see if anyone has a halfords trade card. Their tool boxes are fine for keeping the workshop tidy and you can save about 20% with the trade card.

Snap on tools are great. Just like park tools are great. A cheap 10mm spanner or a cheap 4mm hex key are ok for use once.......then they become a 10ish mm spanner or a 3.9mm hex bolt rounding off tool. You get what you pay for with tools. With Park and snap on they are guaranteed for life in normal use. So that one tool that costs you £100 you should never need to replace.

As far as tool porn goes. All about Abbeybiketools and the park tool MW1

I use only Izumi. I think they are brilliant. No failures, long lasting. Can be a bit rattly though.

Yeah normal cable ties to hold the brake cable on. Cheers for the link. I'll look at getting some of these.

Yeah I used the front mech. I held it in the position for the big ring then attached the cable. As I let go the mech drop down to the small ring by compressing the housing just the right amount. Works wonders on front and rear mechs.

I me I'll have to use the inline barrel adjusters If it proves to be a problem. It'll have to wait until after Sunday but I think it's the best thing for it.

yeah itll be hard work. Its not a compact chainset so itl be 36-25. 42-23.....F that!!!!!
I might leave it as 25 for the challenge.

erm.......
there is none. It was trial and error with the cable till I got the tension right.
If i get a little bit of rub I can deal with that. If it becomes an issue ill think of a way to sort it.
@PhilPub you sure will. The 11-25 is being swapped tomorrow for an 11-28 just to make it a bit easier.

I would be very wary about bars smaller than the clamp. The clamp is that size for a reason.

Can see the project from start to finish aswell as my other custom build here. http://www.bensbikebits.com/project-gallery-page/