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yes to the inch pitch. Reasons

Drillium does have some history, but I would not be comfortable riding that.

Skully, Warren has some comments. Apparently the rule applies to hubs other than Airlite large flange models.

36H was an option
Harden hub catalogue held at the V-CC library
and another Harden catalogue also at the V-CC library)
and quite clearly it was to accommodate those wanting to use the Continental rims

this is from the article at Classic Lightweights on Harden hubs
The CL article has useful links to the bearing replacement and an informative technical article

If you stole that hub from us in Australia it may have been part of the single shipment of the hubs

With the hub spending some time in Australia, and the Oppy toe clips, this has a hint of a True Blue Riband

Dunlop Special Lightweight = chrome plated steel
Dunlop Stainless Special Lightweight= Stainless

The 7th photo in that ebay listing has them as Dunlop Special Lightweight

have a look through the 1939 Brown Bros catalogue. Start from this page
https://www.flickr.com/photos/22983673@N02/14656343932/in/album-72157645280907377/
and page 72 of the 1939 Aids
http://veterancycleclublibrary.org.uk/ncl/pics/Holdsworth%20Aids%20catalogue%201939%20(V-CC%20Library).pdf
and the 1938 Constrictor catalogue
http://veterancycleclublibrary.org.uk/ncl/pics/Constrictor%20catalogue%201938%20(V-CC%20Library).pdf

It is problematic to use hot water ie over 60C. Unless you want to change the structure of the leather to make it harder and brittle. The effect is Cuir Bouilli.
Those characteristics are not normally desired for a bike saddle.

See #7 of my New cover for an old saddle

And before soaking it is best to de-tension the tension bolt, and only re-tension as necessary after the leather has fully dried (think days), and no elevated temperatures for the drying process.

Without trying to inflame the ever present debate on Proofide and other leather conditioners, I only use Proofide. It is my understanding that the vegetable tanned leather (which is used in tensioned saddles) is used as it stays relatively stiff (except when wet). It will gradually mould to your shape from the pressure exerted by your 'sit bones'. It is not ever meant to be flexible. Flexibility will very quickly shorten the life of the saddle.
Many leather treatments are designed to increase suppleness of chrome tanned leather (an altogether different process and used in distinctly different applications (gloves, leather shoes, leather furniture).
These applications are quite different to the leather held under tension taking a major part of your body weight during a ride.

it is in good hands.

some examples here
http://bikeville.blogspot.com.au/2012/05/saddle-supports.html
is this to stop the nose of the saddle from lifting?

advert: "Hobbs of Barbican Blue Riband 23in, red, 1960. Universal brakes, Suntour 12-spd, Stronglight 290, Cinelli Stem, Mavic M40 wheels, Maes, 300 pounds."
seller was from Guildford (wherever that is in England)

there was a red Blue Riband in the latest V-CC newsletter (rec'd in Australia today) was this it?

I am pleased to have mine, and there is another Hobbs, a 1937 that is also in Adelaide. (I will try to get the new owner to post it on this thread.)
So two that are out of your reach!

On the plus side, I think we have the future Hobbs Marque Enthusiast in our midst.

Nice pump. I watched that, I have the Pennine CO2 pumps. You could do a home based refill, but only after getting the bottle pressure tested. You going to get a second Terry's pump clip as shown in the advert?

needs some of my 'honking rubbers'

In Australia we have been collaborating to get a few things printed.
Stem caps and now bar end plugs. In plastic, non-load bearing and cosmetic only.

Australian Tube Products Stem Cap Project

interested to see how strong the items are.

put it in the smallest cog at the rear and then compare the position of the tension arm with others including those in the notes. The big test is does it work?
remember to overshift then return the lever to the desired hole.

I think the rear derailleur fork need to be set much further back for it to change gears. Have a look at the notes I sent you.
specifically on p38 Striking Fork Setting and Dropouts 'The gear change was optimised if the freewheel block was placed as close to the striking fork as possible, so minimising the fork-to-tooth chain span.'

Mine fitted first go.... well actually it fitted easily this time. But then it was just going back on the same frame in the same position it was on in the 1950s. So it may have required the fix back then.

timelapse photos?

leather or....
self adhesive green felt which is what I used.

are you going to use some thin leather or similar with the pump clip to prevent it scratching the frame?
pity about the seat post. I was hoping you would be flooded with offers and I could pick up the second best. I need a seat post and a single Campagnolo Gran Sport (or Cyclo) bar end gear lever.

Right ordered some John Bull (type) rubber cable ties to keep the
Osgear cable tidy on the down tube a la @ElGato. They're reproductions
but cheap as chips and will swap out the moment I find the real deal.

like taking shortcuts don't you?
I made my own because the reproductions I bought did not stretch around the tube and the originals are starting to split.

Just need to find someone now who is a wizard with Osgear to put it
all together.

The installation of the Osgear is straightforward. I have one on my Hobbs.
I will PM you with the details.
The original owner of mine said not to worry about the cable to the tension arm, as it didn't do much. When changing gears you need to overshift and then place the lever into the hole.

stopwatch or conventional pocket watch?
depends on how long the time trial was, but if it was greater than 60 min then it would exceed the normal capacity of a stop watch.
A conventional watch could be set to 0 hours 0 min then it would show the hours, minutes and seconds. And on regular rides it is set to show the conventional time.

If you go for the stopwatch, check the actual specifics of the piece as there are many that have other than 60 min timing functions.
The 1939 Brown Brothers Catalogue has in the graphic what appears to be a conventional pocket watch and the option to purchase a Reliance watch (made by Ingersoll). Other options were available
The Brown Bros 1952 catalogue has the same Terry's clip image but there is no mention of any watches for sale.
I bought the Smiths Empire Pocket Watch. When I was looking there was a wide range in prices and not all were described as working or kept good time.

the way it should be!
the was a post earlier today on Classic Rendezvous:

Is anyone else like me, taking a perfectly functional bike needing one or two simple tweaks before traveling to Eroica California, and once you start work the only thing that doesn't change on the bike is the seat binder and headset?

After mulling over all the possibilities, I decided to take my '54 Algurn for Eroica, as it is a very comfortable ride with the typical English 50's longer wheelbase and lavish tire clearances. The only problem was the 27 inch wheels running inch and 1/8th tires and the double Stonglight 49d cranks. I wanted to swap out the wheels for 700c so I could put a fatter tire on, and I wanted a triple crank. I rode a double last year and didn't even get close to being able to climb the hills. Yes, Bobet rode with a double and a 45x24 low gear, but Bobet was fit. I suspect I'll hit the same pulse rate at Bobet at 1/4 the speed, or at least hit my upper limit, even with super low gears.

So off came the 49d cranks and on goes the Stronglight 99 arms, fitted with 50x45x28 rings joined with a new 13-32 Suntour Ultra six freewheel. Longer BB of course, only had to try three different ones to get a fit. Hmm, I was going to use a set of Bullseye hub-ed wheels but they weren't quite wide enough in the back for the freewheel. One frantic wheel build later, on goes a set of 32x40 Campy low flange hubs built with a 40 spoke Mavic Module 4 rear rim (thanks, Wayne Bingham) and a Pacenti PL23 front. Rear hub spaced out to 124mm. Hmm, now the front derailleur doesn't like the triple crank. Off comes the Suntour Cyclone and on goes a Simplex mech. Have to use a front changer with the bolt on the right side to clear the pump. Hmm, the rear derailleur on this hanger doesn't really clear the 32 tooth cog. Off comes the Campag Rally, on goes a Shimano 600 Arabesque long cage (a very underrated touring mech, btw). Hmm, the GB brake levers with the red plastic quick release tongues are notoriously fragile, and I'm packing this in a shipping case. Off come the GB brake set for a pair of Mafac Dural Forge calipers & levers. Hmm, if I'm changing the brake levers, I might as well use my favorite Nitto 176 bars. Hmm, the GB stem is 25.4 so switch to a Nitto stem. Hmm, the Mafacs (which were fine when mounted on the Jack Taylor) howl like banshees on the new rims. No time now to de-squeal them, so swap the calipers for Paul Racers. Hmm, leather on the old well broken in Brooks B17 is splitting a bit on the front rivet. Don't want to take a chance of a saddle failure so far from home. Off it comes, and on goes the Brooks Pro. Hmm, can't use the saddle bag. On go the clamp on bag eyelets.

I find that so sad. Perhaps they are better off providing a route that better matches the period bikes and the age/fitness of the riders. Far better than forcing these corruptions.

go for a test ride, set some hot laps. Plenty of rubber on the circuit.
http://www.adelaidecyclists.com/events/cargo-bike-picnic-and-test-ride?xg_source=activity