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Best to email : gilbert.sinnott AT gmail.com
Saturday 17th June I will be at Princess May School in Stoke Newington for the flea market, 7am - 3pm ~ EvErYtHiNg MuSt Go ~
TECH
SoundBlaster USB sound card - Windows only - FREE
Studio monitor wall brackets - £5
Akai EIE Pro sound card - £100
Asus MB169B+ USB portable monitor - 1080p / 1920x1080 - £100
Dell Monitor - £5
Dremel w. loads of attachments - £30
Drone - DX7s controller, plenty spare LiPos and propellers - £150
Marumi DHG 40.5mm circular polariser filter - £10
Assorted vintage camera filters - £10
iPhone 5/5s/6 super mega heavy duty case - £2MISC
Frisbee and terrifying Mr Hoppy thing - FREE
Ankle physiotherapy wobble board - FREE
Horse mask - FREE
Japanese Crane copper bicycle bell, brand new - £10
Bike stand with cracked frame (OK for most jobs, not heavy jobs like taking off cranks, pedals etc) - FREE
Olaf, vintage Dutch bike - £100
Anglepoise Type 75 Floor lamp - £95CLOTHES
Running shoes - size 10/10.5 - FREE
Suede Ted Baker shoes - size 10/10.5 - £10
Levis 511 Commuter cycling jeans - 33" waist, 32" leg - £40
SWRVE Grey Cordura cycling jeans - 34" waist - £20
Light grey shorts - 34” waist - £5
Black Levis 522 - 33" waist, 34" leg - £20
SWRVE Merino-mix L/S cycling shirt - £20
Everything else - £1-5 / FREEBOOKS
Hardbacks - £3
Paperbacks - £1
Reference books / phrasebooks - FREE -
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So I’m looking for some advice with my touring build which I will be taking to Istanbul this Summer. My last ride got stolen so, short of money, I decided to build something using spares I had laying around and an old chromoly Raleigh MTB frame I found on eBay.
Photos here:
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B02JtdOXmy9eLc
(current build thread: https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/251594)The Raleigh frame came with some late 80s Rockshox which had a tiny amount of travel compared to modern sus forks (about 5cm) - so I was concerned that conventional rigid fork replacements would be too long and send the original geometry out of whack.
After talking to Thorn though, they dug around in their warehouse and found me a pair of out-of-production Raven touring forks, which we hoped would be neither too long or too short. Initially the ride was fine, but my reach was stretched out (think I may have cut the forks too short), so I put on a much smaller 70mm high-rise stem.
2 months ago I then took it for a short tour through Wessex, Somerset and then Snowdonia, and began getting achilles tendon pain early on. I rode through this, until I got to Snowdonia and did my first mountain where it became unbearable. I was then out of action for a few weeks and have been taking it easy since.
The obvious cause of this was having my saddle very high up, which causes you to stretch out your tendons and paddle / tiptoe as you ride. But I’m also worried that the geometry of the bike might be contributing too (it’s one thing to lower the saddle, but to have this happen again in the middle of Romania would be a disaster).
Currently my head tube angle sits at 61 degrees and my seat tube angle at 65 - which as far as I know is very slack, and would cause the bottom bracket to be much further forward from my saddle. It generally feels comfortable, but also I find climbing a little harder than on other rides.
Could the position of bottom bracket to saddle be exacerbating forces on my achilles tendons? Also will it make climbing harder? And what kind of geometry have I created here (ie. is it a monster)?
Any help much appreciated!
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Did this once before when picking up a bike from someone in late autumn - stopped off at JE James to buy some panniers, but didn't get out of the city til 5pm. The Peaks at dusk were stunning, but climbing Mam Tor in the pitch dark with a waning front torch was definitely pretty sketchy. Would love to do it again in good weather / during the daytime
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Selling some camera bits just in time for Xmas;
Panasonic Lumix LX7
High-end compact with F/1.4 Leica lense. Originally bought for cycle touring - something I could fit a pocket and use as a point-and-shoot, but also not totally shit. Good in low light, shoots RAW, 1080p video, 100fps slomo. £180
Nikon D60 + AF-S Nikkor 35mm 1:1.8G + Lowepro case
Solid DSLR and 35mm prime lense that makes everything look right sexy - low light F/1.8, shallow depth of field, smooth bokeh, muted colours. £160 the lot, or D60 £70, 35mm £120, Lowepro £10
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Much loved KTM tourer (Svetlana) that'd seen me through mountains / forests / thunder storms got nicked whilst watching The Double at Hackney Picturehouse earlier this year (good film; getting your bike nicked, not so good).
Decided to go the budget route and convert an old MTB into a 26" tourer, which in this case involved an 1992 Raleigh Summit on strength of lugged cromoly. She also came with some busted RockShox from the same era, which made finding rigid / touring forks that wouldn't throw the geometry out quite hard. Most rigid forks are designed to replace suspension forks with 80 - 140mm of travel, but the RockShox had 40mm of travel putting them in fork length purgatory. After calling up Thorn though they were able to dig out some out-of-production "Raven" forks from their warehouse which fitted perfectly.
Rest of the bike was mostly salvaged from orphan MTBs in my landlady's basement, while the Brooks I had fortunately taken into the cinema with me when the KTM got nicked.
Sans gubbins:
Avec gubbins:
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Hi there,
Currently building a new tourer from orphaned bike parts since getting my previous one nicked. I'm starting with an old Raleigh Summit which came with some early 1992 Rockshox forks, which I plan to swap for rigid touring forks.
When the Rockshox are fully extended they measure axle-to-cown 400mm, so currently I'm looking at the Surly Long Haul Truckers which measure 376mm and the Thorn Mt Turas which measure 430mm.
My understanding is that when ridden on flats, those Rockshox would probably have been compressed to somewhere closer to the LHT's measurement, but I'm wary of shortening the fork length because touchier handling and a crank closer to the ground and / or panniers wouldn't be ideal.
Conversely I'm worried that adding 50mm or so of length (if I'm correct about the compression) to the geometry by using the Thorn Tura's could be quite drastic and alter the ride.
What is the thinking here? Is it better to decrease the head tube angle than risk increasing it?
Hi, looking for a pair of these. Thanks!