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I've changed a few Langsters to use SRAM S300 cranks and hope BBs, but there is no reason why hollowtech or BB386 cranks wouldn't work. There are not many GXP/hollowtech/etc. cranks that take 144BCD chainrings - 130 and 110 are more common.

Miche bad. https://www.lfgss.com/comments/15573090/

nice

I vote for this sort of approach, using a chisel, stanley knife blade or screwdriver.

If you have an angle grinder with a cutting disk, obviously that is more fun, provides heat as you grind, along with a frisson of danger, sparks etc. Reshaping the race would allow other techniques to get more purchase.

People going past are likely to already have minimally functional bikes, so stuff for making adjustments might be useful.
Adjustable spanner, Hex spanners for adjusting brakes / seatpost etc.

Another vote for halo track hubs

If you have vertical dropouts, an eccentric eno hub is a nice solution (with 130m, 135mm options).

Alternatively, halo track hubs have a rear axle kit available for 120mm to 130mm conversion.

There will be a reduced number of threads enaged with the freewheel as the ones engaged with the lockring are smaller and left handed. It should work anyway.

I use Boeshield T-9, though given boeing 737 MAX debacle and subsequent Starliner issues, I'm having second thoughts. It seems to last for ages.

https://www.treadbikely.com/boeshield-t-9-review/

I'd agree. Maybe they used their own sprocket profile formula.

halo aerorage is a suggestion. The rims and spokes are so-so, but the hubs are great.

https://www.merlincycles.com/mach-sealed-bearing-track-wheel-56098.html?utm_source=PHG&utm_medium=AffiliateMarketing&utm_campaign=phg-GB&ucpo=15854&source=PHG

That looks like novatec hub - missing the aluminium shield that the halo hub has, but cheap for an off the shelf wheel.

No idea if either would work with a 32mm tyre.

KMC Z610 HX £3.99
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/kmc-z610-single-speed-hx-chain/rp-prod25433

if it is slipping, it is going to be over the rear sprocket, not round the front chainring.

Keep it indoors.

In good conditions, rear brake doesn't do much. In wet, icy, slippery conditions, it is quite easy to cause a front wheel skid which is generally terminal. Recovering from a rear wheel skid is straightforward - some people even do it deliberately, for fun.

Brake cables also snap, especially if they live outside, are old, galvanised, unloved, etc.

Can you just cut through the bolt with a grinder and a steel cutting disk? Subsequently, hard maybe to get the bottom half of the bolt out of the stem, but fast and lots of sparks.

If you have a grinder and are a bit bored, you can cut open the old freewheel, liberate all the balls and achieve a deeper understanding of freewheel construction.

There are sealed freewheels (WI, token, profile) and unsealed ones (dicta, shimano, halo, acs, etc.) The unsealed ones will all die if used in crappy weather (~1-2 years commuting) crap gets inside and the ball bearings start to wear faster, it becomes loose or the pawls stop catching or similar. Adding oil can extend their lives a bit. The WI ones are great but a bit of a false economy as you can buy 10 dicta type freewheels for one WI one, and the WI casing is quite expensive compared to the cost of a new WI freewheel (and the last time I did that I found they now only sell the new casing with a new bearing).

Get one that works with the standard 4 sprog removal tool.

For gears , a derallieur (that bolts on to your hanger), cassette ((shimano) that has right number of gears for your hub), gear cable, gear outer, gear lever. You might want to get a bigger front chainring - it will be 110 or 130 bcd (probably). You could also add a front derallieur, chainrings, etc.

For gearing up generally this might be what you're looking for https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vwn_UfG2spc

Again, again.

http://lestendhal.net/evenements/bike-wars-2019/

They are quite nicely made freewheels, and adding oil like in the video makes them last longer, but the fact they're not sealed and you're using it in crummy conditions means that it is inevitably going to die.

You might want some "proper" track nuts (with captive washer).

I vote for this. A nipple has unwound itself so the spoke tension goes to zero under load in one wheel position and +ive tension in another, making the noise. That's the theory, anyway. Look for a spoke under less tension that its chums.

this one ...?
https://www.kmcchain.com/en/product/bicycle-chain-k415h-single-speed

I found it hard to research interesting bike stuff in advance due to language and lack of foreign customers.
Knowing a tame local person would really help.

I'd also suggest visiting the west bank in addition to Tel Aviv and Jerusalem to get a better understanding of the area. Walking from Bethlehem back through the checkpoint was straightforward.