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If you can be faffed with waiting for the guys at Grand Bois to make a shipping quote, you can order direct from here:
http://www.cyclesgrandbois.com/SHOP/279817/287335/list.htmlTheir extra light "エキストラレジェ" models are currently on sale, too. (3780 yen each)
I'm bringing a couple of pairs over for my friends when I head back to England for Christmas.
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Hello all,
I've been trawling this and other threads on what would be the most suitable wheelset to have built up. I'm trying to keep costs reasonably low, within 300 quid if possible.I generally weigh around 68kg and want a reasonably light set as I do a lot of riding in the mountains of Japan. My current wheels are some old Mavic GL330s laced 32 front and rear to Dura ace 7400 hubs running 8 speed. They're not exactly rigid, and while Japanese roads are generally okay, there are plenty of nasty grates, bridge joins and potholes which love to eat lesser rims.
I'm basically looking for something light, stiff and as robust as possible - I want them to be less of a race-day wheel and more of a trainer with some decent longevity. I'm also jumping a few generations and going from 8 to 11 speed with these.
Not sure if this is a great deal or not, but I've heard that the rims are pretty decent and the hubs are nice and lightweight.
http://www.bikehubstore.com/product-p/pacbkit.htmThere's also these, but the "not for everyone" quote doesn't exactly inspire confidence.
http://www.bikehubstore.com/product-p/xr200kit-20-24.htmAny other suggestions worth considering?
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Can't make up my mind about this but it's certainly
Interesting http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/171282627054?nav=SEARCH -
Panaracer's new "gravel king" tyres look like they're rebranded Tourer Plus Brevet Editions to me except they don't have the brown sidewalls. Weights and composition are exactly the same however.
Actually, Panaracer do lots of OEM work for smaller brands over here too, Grand Bois being one example.
http://www.cyclowired.jp/?q=node/109641Here's some Panaracer Tourer Plus OEMs in a different colour scheme
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This might help.
I had k-wire pinning, so I was allowed to do most of the exercises as soon as the swelling went down. I was very cautious though - I avoided all of the ones which involved raising the arm near horizontal until the x-rays showed signs of bone growth. I most certainly would speak to your GP before launching into any of the routines linked.
I made sure that while I was in a sling, I was trying to utilise the muscles as much as I could (tensing up, pulling up/pushing down/pushing out while immobilising the arm etc)
My broken arm was more annoying - I only had a 120 degree range of rotation in my wrist for a good four weeks. Took a lot of effort to get that back to normal (about 8 weeks all in for complete wrist/elbow motion)
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Just pee on it.
Yup, this.
I used to build guitar pedals, and put copper plates on the top with the control legend / pedal name stamped on them. People used to ask how I got a beautiful verdigris on those copper plates.
I'd just say "Well, I stamped them, threw them in a bucket, then pissed in the bucket and left it for 24 hours."
So I've heard, roofers who work with copper do the same thing after completion. -
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I'm on a 52/42 12/23 setup on my new (old) bike. The setup is fine for my daily commute as it's mostly flat, but I'm finding that hills over 5% are rather unpleasant to ride up. Not impossible, but not fun unless you're a bit of a masochist.
As a lot of the fun routes around Tokyo go up into the hills and mountains, I'm on the lookout for a 39t chainring to replace the 42t. 39/23 served me well for all but the most brutal of climbs. Might switch to a 25 once the mountains open up next year. -
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Plate fixation isn't the only option. I was given three options when I broke mine earlier this year.
1) Clavicle brace - not actually good for me as my clavicle was displaced ie not straight. Upside is no surgery. Downside is that fucking brace doing your head in for weeks on end, possibility of non-union and probable lumpy collarbone (although this gets less lumpy as years wear on).
2) Plate fixation - you can get back on the bike super fast, but the healing process is a bit slow and most people want the plate removed later on due to irritation, requiring a second operation. Of course, you end up with a surgical scar.
3) Pin/"k wire" fixation (the one I had) - initial operation is similar to plate fixation, except a couple of shish kebab skewers are used to hold the bones in alignment. Takes 8 weeks on average for the bone to fuse together, then you can have a local anaesthetic operation to have the pins removed (10 minute op). You end up with a surgical scar, but the bone heals perfectly straight. -
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Enjoy.