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Le Coffee Ride in Coo has a great collection of rides in the Ardennes : https://www.lecoffeeride.cc/rides/.

That's a good tip, thanks. At the moment, I'm advancing the pistons a tiny bit without wheel in bike, to get the pads a bit closer to the rotors. But when pads wear, distance get tiny bit bigger and I have to re-advance the pistons a bit all over and over again.

Am I correct that with overfilling, I get the same result, but with the difference that distance between pad and rotor will remain the same regardless of pad wear?

Cool bike!

The bike (including mud) on which he won Strade is on display in Wielermuseum Roeselare, sorry to burst your dream :)

Swisstop Disc 30 RS (yellow ones)

Where to get them?

😂 so shit brakes, what I was expecting.

Live with it or upgrade than

Yes, the return is fine. Also, it's been like this since new. Is it normal that they work better / worse with different reach positions? When I put the lever in the most extreme position (away from bars) it even puts the pistons out so much that brake pads clamp the rotor. On another bike i have campa record, don't think brake performance is affected when changing reach.

@snottyotter seriously considering that tbh if I cant solve this

I'm almost losing my nerves on a Sram Rival (mech) Hydr brake system, where I don't find a good solution for. Tried all tricks I new, but still not 100% OK with brake function. Is there a magic trick that I don't know about, or do I have to accept that Sram Rival hydraulic braking is shit compared to Campagnolo and Shimano? Calipers are non-bleeding edge, post mount calipers.

Problem: depending on the reach adjustment of the lever (with the 2.5mm grub screw under the lever), the bite point changes. If a adjust the reach relatively close to the bars (where I want the levers to be) there occurs some +- 2cm of free travel, before any braking action occurs. This just feels shit when riding. When I adjust the reach further away of the bars, in a more extreme position, this free travel seems to be less. At that position, the braking feels like I want it to feel. Fast, not numb, as if you're in control without a 2 cm lag witch each brake action. But lever is not reachable because of the extreme position. What I want is this braking, but with a shorter reach.

Effective braking power is ok. It's all about the free stroke / travel of the lever that I want to avoid. With Shimano/Campagnolo hydraulics, I've sometimes solved this by pressurizing the system just a little by pressing the syringes while closing the brake port. But these Sram non-bleeding edge f*ckers don't have a brake port it seems.

What I've tried:

• multiple bleeds, following the exact instructions from Sram manual (last time with lever reach as close to bars as possible)
  
• removing wheel, pressing levers a bit to get the brake pads closer to the rotors => makes it a bit better, but not enough
  
• new brake pads /rotors
  
• ...
  
  

Eternal gratitude for who can help here :)

Thanks! No big plans on riding it, as this one is to small for me. But even if size was ok, I wouldn't ride it much tbh. The thought of old bikes is romantic, and I like to work on them, but for long rides no thanks. They've evolved for a reason :)

.

And after:

Sooooo, almost 7 years have passed after acquiring a rusty and old Faggin bike. At that moment, almost ready for the skip. Happy to finish this slow burner this week.

Almost complete Cambio Rino group including pedals & toeclips and a nice alu headset. Modolo Corsa brakes, Concor saddle & Ambrosio rims. 3ttt cockpit. DIY paintjob.

Before , as I got the bike:

This is excellent stuff. Really enjoy this combo of craftmanship & ridiculousness. Keep going please!

Check J&L seatposts. I bought one on EBay some years ago. Looks good, but clamping mechanism is sh*t. Same issue as @kndl describes.

Suitable for 7*9 and with setback/no setback though.

Upgraded my Van Nicholas Skeiron from Hunts to Bora WTO 45's this week. Looks like I'm done now (for a while), or please talk me to another upgrade.

Sooooo... Nearly 3 years after respraying the Faggin (see pg 2), It's finally time to build. I ended up collecting a nearly full Cambio Rino group. Not the most common or known brand but a nice relief from all the Campagnolo SR bikes out there. More info on Cambio Rino: https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site/rino_derailleurs.html. Why Rino? Because the original seatpost was Rino. I acquired some Rino downtube shifters after refinishing the frame. Than, 2 years passed where nothing happened. Than, by accident I scored a very nice Rino crankset. That was the trigger to gather a nearly full group (BB, cranks, pedals, clips, hubs, seatpost, shifters, Crono derailleurs, headset). Only brakes and levers will be Modolo.

I've already build the wheelset around a nice black pair of Rino hubs, with Ambrosio rims.

Slowly, but I'll get there in the end...

Amazing

That is a brilliant frameset - this is going to be an excellent build. You've probably already forgotten about the waiting time by now.

About the stem: just my humble opinion, but normal ahead stems can look good on a vintage/retro frame. It looks great when the angle of the stem puts its parallel with the toptube. For a horizontal top tube, you'll need a -17 (more or less) stem for this. Also, a minium of spacers helps. The negative part: this puts you in a quite aggressive position. And if a bike doesn't fit, you're never gonna love it.

You should also not underestimate the impact that bars / position of shifters on bars have on the relative height / position of your shifters (where your hands will be most). From experience, switching bars can easily affect the height with a coupe of cm. Check BDHU topic ;)

But whatever you decide, it's your bike. And its going to be a beauty!

So happy for you. Looking forward to this...

This kind of play is normal with semi-floating rotors. From Campagnolo manual - section 2.2 - pg 8

https://www.campagnolo.com/media/files/035_2362_Technical%20Manual%20-%20Disc_Brake%20-%20Campagnolo_Rev04_05_2022_ENG.pdf

Hi Rich,

I wonder if you still have these hubs for sale?

Best regard
Klaas

@Gaston this kind of work makes me happy, this is what it's all about for me. Great work, keep on posting

The only good thing about waiting very long for a timeless classic, is that it will always be a timeless classic.

Keep my fingers crossed for you @Retro_Bastard

Correct. It's a 61cc and looks quite big with the horizontale headtube. My gravel bike has +- the same headtube length as they master (20,5cm) but a sloping tt and you wouldn't say it's extremely big bike. I'm 1,87m myself, big, but not a giant either right :)

But in those bigger sizes, you'll often find the masters in freuler geometry. And to me, that's the bike equivalent of a Fiat Multipla.

Fender mount?