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Porteur and Nitto Moustasche still for sale! I'll be putting them on eBay soon.

As a quick update: I'm looking for a 38 or 36 tooth 110mm BCD Biopace ring.

Anybody have any of these? I forget which BCD it is exactly but it's the bigger of the two sizes that I need. Middle ring of a triple touring setup is a bit goofed up and needs replaced. Will return with more details when I'm not on my phone.

Handlebars clearout!

**Stratalite South of Frances bars with GB Spearpoint stem and Modolo flash levers
**Both a little bit less than perfect in the finish -- bit of fouling from the classic zigzag brake lever removal method (sans lubricant clearly). Nothing too hideous -- fortunately covered by this fab bar tape which I'd rather leave on despite being a relatively shitty job. Can supply some black cloth tape (and maybe blue if I can find it). If you're very curious/wary I'll take it off (effort etc.) -- picture shows the naked bars, just a bit lo-res. Comes with a ~70mm GB Spearpoint stem -- despite loving it, I have nothing to put it on. Both 25.4mm

** GONE**

Porteur bars

Never got around to using them -- they're not my thing. A few scrapes here and there, most of which could be gone with a bit of polishing. Little bit of a rub at the brake lever clamp area and scoring from grip removal. Caliper reads 25mm -- probably fine on a 25.4 stem with a shim. Just be careful etc.
£10

26mm Cinelli Campione del Mondo drop bars

Not much use to me -- drop is too radical for my burger eating ass (not eaten a burger in months, but that's besides the point). Little bit dirty from having had ancient cloth tape on it -- should be a quick cleanup. Haven't had time to do it myself.
£15

26mm Nitto Moustache Bars

Little bit of fouling on left side of clamp area -- I apologise for being a pleb. Quite minor though and other than that, very good condition. Some tape residue. Would love to use these but I don't have any short 26mm stems and it feels a bit too far in front on my current rides.
£25

26mm TTT Super Leggero

Seems to be relatively rare (NONE ON EBAY -- CALL THE COPS!!). Can throw in a TTT 26mm stem missing the expander bolt/wedge. Let me know.
£10

Normally based in Newcastle upon Tyne, but I'm heading to London tomorrow -- can meet at Victoria/Hounslow/Whitton or some tube stop along there.

Well, this is as far as I've gotten --

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8713278/bike/IMAG0039.jpg

It seems all the derailleurs in my immediate vicinity are kaput. The Deore XT piece that was on the bike suffered a failure of the little adjustment bolt, and rather than try it without I decided to take it apart and try to substitute the piece from an Altus C10. Didn't work, and not any parts from another 90's Deore mech. Basically I'm going to have to replace it. Other than that, I've not really had any other issues. I've ended up using a 26.2mm seatpost with a shim, which brings it up to the theoretical 27.2mm that the tube should be. I tried a 27mm seatpost which was much too loose when the bolt was tightened.

Replaced the cables, cleaned everything, replaced the stem and bars (the bars must've taken a bash at some point so they weren't quite right -- pity), replaced the brake pads and brake levers. I used the quite dilapidated bar tape that was on there recently, until the new stuff arrives.

Almost...

Excellent. It's probably going to be usurped anyway, in favour of a shorter stem. I've got a few SR 70mm stems which will do the job. Still have to figure out whether it's a 26mm or 25.4 though. Have been considering posting a wanted ad on here as I'm in need of a 26mm stem for some Nitto Moustache bars I picked up on eBay. This would be a good bike to use them on, as I'm not sold on using them with brifters.

Apologies for the mod who had to clean up my post -- only dawned on me that the photos are pretty high res.

Yeah I'm hoping that it's just loose cones rather than wrecked bearings -- I've heard anecdotal reports that parallax hubs' cones came a bit overtightened from the factory and end up wearing out if they aren't adjusted. I'll see what I think when I've got my tools (just dropped it off at my girlfriend's -- 3 miles is further than it sounds when you're on a bike that plainly isn't set up for you, with no saddle!)

I hope to use it for a bit of touring this summer but I think I'll probably use it for commuting as well -- the comfy tyre setup is more suited to the 'roads' of North Tyneside than my current bike -- this one had nice gel pads under the dilapidated bar tape which I'll hopefully try to use as well.

I'm considering switching to V brakes as I've got a spare pair of V-brake drop bar levers. We'll see.

Just picked this up on Gumtree for the reasonable sum of £80.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8713278/bike/romany/IMAG0027_BURST005.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8713278/bike/romany/IMAG0029_BURST007.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8713278/bike/romany/IMAG0032_BURST004.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8713278/bike/romany/IMAG0030_BURST004.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8713278/bike/romany/IMAG0024_BURST003.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8713278/bike/romany/IMAG0031_BURST004.jpg

Specs (that I remember offhand) are as follows:

• 22.5" 531ST frame with 531 forks
  
• 500LX/Deore groupset
  
• 105 brake levers
  
• Biopace triple
  
• 7 speed cassette with Shimano Sport LX shifters
  
• Unknown Stem (can anyone make out the degraded logo?)
  
• SR Road Champion drops, probably 42cm
  
• Shimano cantis -- forgot the model
  
• Mavic T261 rims with Shimano Parallax hubs
  
• Blackburn rack
  
  

Initial observations of condition are as follows:

• some surface rust here and there, but very light
  
• missing seat tube
  
• missing seatpost clamp bolt
  
• cables degraded but outers might be salvageable -- probably won't risk it
  
• wheels run true but quite loose cones
  
• Front tyre (Conti Top Touring 2000) degraded -- probably will replace with another Schwalbe Land Cruiser as has been fitted recently on the rear wheel
  
• brake levers seem to have taken a bit of abuse so may just swap them for some other 105's I've got
  
  

Other than that it seems like an alright find. Anyone agree? Going to strip it completely, replace some parts and clean it up before it can be ready for the summer!

Haven't got my calipers here, but when I've got them I really need to figure out what size of seatpost I'll need. The guy I bought it from had major trouble removing the last one -- it got seized in the frame and he needed a vice to remove it.

We'll see how it goes.

From what I've seen, Ice Toolz are fairly low end. You should really be asking yourself how often you'll be using it, and how often it'll be 'mission critical'. If you think it's something you'll use twice in 10 years, then go cheap. If you need this thing to perform everyday, or every week -- you're going to want to find the best piece of kit you can afford.

Anyway, this is what I consider whenever buying tools. I'd rather just get the job done by someone else if I think the investment in a tool isn't going to pay for itself. In an ideal world the 'teach a man to fish' thing would apply, but there are some jobs that barely ever come up and I'd have to say that reaming/facing a head tube might be one of them. Or maybe I'm a mere plebeian who has not but dipped his toe in the ocean of bike mechanicking.

You can try cold setting an alu alloy part but it's my understanding that there's a fairly significant weakening of the material whenever it's bent and rebent in this fashion. If this is part of the dropout rather than a removable hanger, I'd err on the side of caution and consider the frame for other uses sans derailleur. If it is removable I might give it a go with a rear mech alignment tool, just a bit more delicately than with steel -- or would replace it if I was a bit skeptical.

You can give it a try, but it all depends on how much you think the frame is worth, or how disappointed you'd be if you ended up fracturing the frame at such a crucial point. I certainly wouldn't attempt this job without a proper alignment tool. There's nothing worse than bodging a job that already has a fairly high risk factor.

Edit: just realised your replies are much later than the OP -- anyway, my two cents on the subject AVAILABLE ON THE INTERNET FOREVER!

Yeah, I was about to ask if you had checked the tension at the maximum shift -- looks like krankers covered it.

Can't speak about the quality but this is a cheap replacement -- http://www.rutlandcycling.com/100416/products/giant-p-r3-road-bike-tyre---700x28c.aspx

But I'd say there's no immediate danger -- the rubber on the sidewall is very thin and, to my understanding, not really structurally 'important' i.e. damaged threads on the tyrewall are what cause blowouts, rather than damaged rubber. At least that's what Sheldon Brown has to say about it.

This is one of the few jobs where WD40 is absolutely great. If it's a 'rapidfire' type shifter, as in ratcheted clicky type, then just spray it in the gutty works and hopefully that'll get everything unceased.

If all else failed, you can get a thumby shifter from a local bike initiative/charity for next to nothing, as long as such a thing exists near you.

All cyclists are shit. All motorists are shit. All pedestrians are shit.

There we go.

I just won these.

Not expecting much -- I've never heard of Van Schothorst, but after a cleanup, bearing replacement/greasing, and a polish they can replace the 60s Rigida/Maillard wheels on my girlfriend's bike.

Anyone heard of this brand?

Aren't those ATAX stems known for their failure rate? As far as I remember.