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Ignoring the disproven power advantages of a curved crank, is the shape itself stronger than a straight crank? I'm basing this question on the understanding that arches are stronger than a straight lintel in buildings. However im not sure if the load needs to be applied in the center of the arch for this to be true, as opposed to at the end in the case of a crank i.e. is the force applied at the pedal of the crank arm producing a tensile force across the crank? I'm not an engineer so forgive any mistakes in my use of terminology.
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Just looking at a reggy smeggy disc tab. Not even sure what the long tang is for. Just going to be mig welding them on some mates frames, so I’m not really ‘in the market’ so to speak. For a run I’d highly recommend London water jet though. Had some unrelated work done by them and they were very helpful. All you need is a dxf and they’ll do the rest, sourcing material, setup etc
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There is a youtube video i can't find anymore that shows you how to seam tape around sewn corners. It basically involves using the edge of an ironing board to do what @Chopsicle suggested to flatten the seam sew you can lay the seam tape flat. I'm just gonna use seam grip and the process shown here.
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Does anyone know which god you have to pray to to run seam tape around curved seams? Seam grip would obviously be easier but i wasn't exactly patient in pinning the fabric within the seam allowance, and I think I might need the width of seam tape to comensate. I also think I might be overthinking it. any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Im getting some disc tabs brazed on to my frame for reasons I have forgot. Something about upgrading the wheelset. I was wondering if anyone has any reccomendations on the retro offerings available. I'm not opposed to getting some retro rims and hubs built up but i've no idea on mavic's hierachy (which is what everyone seems to use) nor what hubs I should be using i.e how retro is too retro.
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Prior to seeing this I ordered some a15 in 1.2mm which I understand to be the British Standards equivalent. My tubes appeared to average at about 1.2mm thick and I understood a filler rod of <= the size of the tube to be best practice. Going the whole hog to produce a few frames, expecting to get the bug and Building a frame fixture so I should definitely consider integrating back purging into the fixture.