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Good thing is, in FL there's a shit ton of tridorks with way too much money who ride that shit for 3 triathlons and sell it at the end of the season. I'm haggling with a guy right now on a set of Rotor 3D+ TT cranks.

Totalcycling still have a couple, now just £849, do it!

That's almost $1400

sometimes the fantasy is better than the reality.....

Time to do a little pre-spring cleaning and hopefully raise a little cash.

First up- Crank Bros. Candy pedals. Used but not abused. $25 shipped

SRAM Omnium 48t Chainring. Maybe 20 miles on it. Like new. $40 shipped

Cinelli 1" quill stem. Unsure of model. 120mm. 26.0 clamp. Only blemishes are from insertion. $35 shipped

Vintage Campy 50t 144bcd road chainring. Eddy Merckx Panto. $50 shipped

Neuvation M28 Aero wheelset. Trued and tensioned within the last month. Bearings spin surprisingly nicely for a sealed bearing set. Freehub is in very good shape. Includes 700x23 Conti Gatorskins and SS spacer and cog kit. $225 shipped

Also have:
Nitto S83 seatpost 27.2 $60 shipped
Nitto Dynamic 11 1" quill stem. 26.0 clamp 110mm $50
Nitto RB021 pursuit bars 42cm. 26.0 clamp $40
Profile Design Airwing OS pursuit bar. 40cm. 31.8 clamp. with black cloth bar tape $30
Suntour Superbe Pro Pista BB ITL thread. NON NJS. $80

All prices include shipping. PM me to hash out the exchange rate/shipping deets
Thanks

^^ Is it wrong that I've always lusted after those Zipp Chrono cranks?

[QUOTE=danstuff;3350771]This is my new TT bike:

Dat Chainring!

Hey all, I'm looking to sell my Nature Boy as I've upgraded to a Zona edition. This frame was never raced, and served as a light commuter/'round towner for about a year. Frame and fork are in excellent condition with only a couple of minor scrapes(see pics).
I'm also including a Cane Creek 40 headset, Shimano 105 Octalink BB(109.5mm), kinda ugly Shimano Dura-Ace 7400 cranks(170mm arms) with a 48t single ring, and a no name stem/riser bar combo.

Geometry specs: seat tube c-c 49cm, seat tube c-t 51.5cm, top tube 53.5 cm.
I'd like to get $450(shipped) or whatever the current exchange rate is. As of right now it comes out to GBP280.
If you're interested PM me and we can hash out the details of shipping etc.
Thanks

PS- the blue tape is securing the cable stop for the rear cable hanger. Didn't want to lose that.

This is Miami we're talking about. Driver just kept going. I was ok except for a wee bit of road rash on the elbow.
But to add insult to injury- I landed in a GIANT puddle that was actually ankle deep. Landed on my back. With my messenger bag strapped to it. with my spare clothes, wallet, ciggies, phone, etc. in it. Dumped easily a gallon of water out of my bag. Everything soaked. 3 mile walk back to the car. had to drive home from Miami in my boxer shorts due to not having dry clothes or even a towel.

My 89 Schwinn Prologue TT in mock-up build. Just wanted a fun CM/social ride cruiser.

After getting run off the road in Miami

Crappy close up cellphone pic

Forgive me if these are re-posts, but I think I found some cool how-to type stuff:
http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/articles/diamondweave/

http://www.raydobbins.com/molteni_replica/molteni_tip

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This guy
Stress on wheels because of rim brakes is negligible. If you want a (slightly)lighter front wheel go 1x or 2x. Any cross lacing pattern will give you more lateral stiffness, while easing the up/down impacts. I run a low flange DA 7710 hub laced 1x in the front to a Dodici hoop. Built it a year ago and still never had to re-true it. But at the end of the day, whatever works for you is the right way.

+1

Well in Miami it seems it's a city ordinance that once you are done drinking your beer, you must throw the bottle into the street. Just absolute drifts of broken glass everywhere.
Panaracer Ribmos 700x25c for daily driver use, and either Zipp Tangente or Torelli Torino open tubulars for the fast group rides.
I've really come to love high TPI casings for durability.
Maybe it's just the climate here, or just a bunch of Freds that don't take care of their shit, but I've seen way too many Bontrager hardcase tires separate the tread from the casing.

Not so bad with a stiff rim, and road use. But with a low profile rim, and a bumpy ride its definitly not the best solution.

+1
Also most manufacturers throw a clause in the warranty that basically says the warranty is void if laced radially. Even my DA 7710s has that little disclaimer.
I've always had good luck with 1x or 2x lacing patterns for front daily driver wheels.
And, just my .02- machined hub shells are much more likely to fail than forged. American Classic had a problem with that a few years back. Lots of front hub flanges failing on their track wheels

Nice Stable!!

That BMX is super dope. What are the fenders on the track bike? And the chainring?

Pre-break.

ground clearance was less than 2 inches. On a steeply crowned road, it would scrape the frame if I made a u turn

Used to ride this to the bar all the time. Unfortunately the frame broke at one of the welds. Now it's a wallhanger

My whip.

well played sir, well played

Those bars are sex!

He would have stayed if the grammar was better.

ftfy

The Big Block is a killer streetfighter/track day ride. I love wat it handles in the city, and with a relatively high BB, is well suited for the track.

If you get a complete, it is a pretty dope build right out of the box. AC hubs spin super nice-much nicer than a lot of others in that price range.

Another big plus IMHO, is the ED coating applied inside and out before paint. living at the beach, salt air is pretty bad. But as for winters where they salt the roads, it sure as hell beats having to framesaver your bike every season.

I honestly really love the way the bike rides and handles. Plus, Jeff (the man behind A/C) is a really nice guy.