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Sure thing,
http://www.flickr.com/photos/73623677@N02/sets/72157634003420734/
Have a gander at the photos and let me know what you think.
Cheers,
Jon
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Great condition 1" threaded steel fork. Acquired from another member on lfgss but sadly does not fit my new frame.
As the title suggests, fits a 700c wheel and is chrome. 152mm steerer with 15mm of thread.
Looking to sell for the price I paid, so £30.
Willing to meet anywhere in Central London or will post for a small fee.
Thanks,
Jon
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Understood... I find myself in this situation after already having one damaged fork (although the damage was not because of braking stress) so the last thing I want is this new fork to pack in.
Will make a hole when I get my hands on a drill.. At the moment I only have a 3 mile commute and tend to backpedal for 95% of the time that I need to slow down so it's not getting a hiding..
Thanks again for all your help!
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Thanks all for the suggestions
I've gone with slotting the recessed nut inside the fork which seems to be holding up at the moment - partly because I haven't got a decent drill to hand so a quick fix will do for the time being.
Although if any loosening arises I'll be making that 8mm hole for sure.
Thanks again,
Jon
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Hi all,
Just wondering if anyone has had any bad experiences with regards to drilling an 8mm hole in the back of an old steel fork to accommodate a recessed nut?
Is it better just to buy a new brake caliper that has a longer thread and stick to traditional methods of fitting?
Hypothetically speaking, if I chose to drill, is it better to use a front caliper or a rear caliper and then a longer nut? Just trying to gather some ideas around which would best maintain the structural rigidity of the fork.
Any help would be appreciated and I hope these don't seem like stupid questions.
Cheers,
Jon
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Has the Miche Primato gone? Would be very interested