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Nice!

Finally Fatties Fit Fine

There is a lot of personal perference and stemlength and seatpost/seat position is a big factor, but 53 cm does not seem like a bad choice.

If you clear the top tube standing over the 53 cm I don´t think that would be a bad choice. You can probably get the 49 cm to work as well, but the 53 cm might be a more comfortable fit. If you want a really agressive position with drops, the 49 cm might be a better option, but who want to do that anyway?

I dont have issues with toe overlap, but it does have toe overlap. All smal bikes with normal "road bike" geometry and 700c wheels will have toe overlap.

Thanks. The bike is a real trooper.

Surly is pretty weird about how they make the bikes bigger. Im 169 cm and ride the 49 cm frame. I went with the 49 cm due to stand over clearance. The head tube/stack is very low, but I run risers and spacers so that is fine. If I wanted drop bars I would have needed a real spacers tower or some fuggly stem. The big difference between the 49cm and the 53 cm in my opinion is the higher head tube/stack and higher standover.

It is time for winter riding again. The Pompino got should have done 10 000 km by now so it got a new rear wheel with a fancy White Industries freesheel.

Well, I use TRP CX 8.4 with SKS guards and there is some contact between the guard the brake. I still works and perhaps you can fit it better. I use a 35 mm tyre.

The TRP CX 8.4 is bad for clearing the fender with a big tyre. If you use brakes that pull enough cable brakes with longer arms are better. The brake shoes from the TRP that takes normal road pads are however the bees knees.

The product really would be helped by some kind of hook that prevents the hand from falling of forward if you hit something. The lever usually has that function.

I would just get the Hurdy Gurdy chain tensioner.

Neat!

No problem, good luck!

I could not get a 32 mm on the front, but perhaps it is possibel to find some tyre that is wide, but not tall. 30 mm is still ok so I did not bother. The Sheldon Nuts are 13 mm front and 10 mm rear.

I think that these are the p-clamps I used: https://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/aluminium-p-clip/clamp-for-hose-with-1-or-25mm-od-c-15-p-2468

I use Bluemels and p-clamps. It works fine, p-clamps is not any problem. Problem Solvers Sheldon nuts is very good if you are using brakes. The p-clamps i use is called aluminium racing p-clamps. The front fender takes away a lot of clearance and I can only run 30 mm tyres on the front with the fender.

Haha, I run fucking 39/17 on my commuter for tarmack with slicks and its not slow. Try spinning the cranks instead.

I´ve used Swiss Stop green pads and various KoolStop. I think the SwissStop was the longest lasting, but the cost more corresponding to that. All pads have been good enough. The KoolStop i normaly buy are various dual and trippel compund, they all seem to be good. The stock Trektro works on the rear, but they offer to littel power for front use.

I love the fork! Nice build over all.

There is an 19 mm difference in rim placement, so it depends on the brake. There could be something that you probably could get to work, but the lever will be way more and the brakeing power will surly be affected.

You will get 10 mm less axel-to-crown on the fork. The disc trucker fork in 700C has the same axel-to-crown as the original pomp fork.

Don´t you have problems with the cranks hitting the stays under flex?

Is that a 650b pomp? Looks good!

I rode a carbon canti fork on my first pomp, but it had a longer a2c and it rode worse than the original fork.