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Very large Dawes Frame, to suit person of 6 feet or more in height.
Classic 70's sports bike frame.
Suitable for single speed/fixed, hub gears or deraileur.
Features brazings for front and rear deraileurs.
25 inch / 63 or 64 cm frame.
With cottered cranks, bottom bracket bearings perfectly smooth and silky, as are headset bearings.
Will make a beautiful project. Much loved frame, but just too big for me!!!

£60 anyone?

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Hilly, ur totally right.
TBH I personally have never fully really understood that rule.
Maybe i need to do a search, to see if the rule has been discussed (to death, no doubt?)
But it occured to me, that the OP maybe just plain dares to disagree with the rule. Either way, 4 days on, his post is still up there.

Actually it occurred to me to leave it up anyway just to assert my right to sell this bike to whom i want, where i want. Does anyone know of any discussion of this rule? i tried searched but came up with nothing...?

apologies to all having read the forum rules

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oops! i was in a rush!!!! i'll sort it tomorrow...

Dutch roadster bicycle, Gazelle Sport Primeur, circa '70s, open frame, grey, surface rust but no serious rust. 22'/56cm.
Full working order.
Features weatherproof hub brakes, 3 speed sturney archer gears (just been re cabled), fully enclosed chain, kick stand, massive pannier rack, 700c wheels and goods tyres.
What's wrong with it? it will need a new front brake cable soon but it's working well now and will emergency stop fine. Dynamo is broken, as is rear light, will need wiring, or just use clip on lights.
Offers Welcomed around £100...
https://mail-attachment.googleusercontent.com/attachment/?ui=2&ik=c2132cf16d&view=att&th=137eb73a8c836236&attid=0.2&disp=inline&realattid=1404761438957862912-2&safe=1&zw&saduie=AG9B_P8yjDwVN7_0KAYcw4C5IHeK&sadet=1339746752879&sads=Fd1m5rbyFsSo_MlmwBi_MrhDMKw

I reckon smash out some bamboo. Standard wood would be as heavy as a Skrillex bass line. Which is bad. And really heavy.

the problem with bamboo here is that it would be difficult to shape and fasten tightly.

i would use a nice piece of well seasoned ash thats been quartered and with the grain poining up like in a step of a flooring beam. ash is strong and absorbant of shock. ideal really... perhaps more reliable than ally...? any ideas on that?

yew would be good and reliable but heavy, but one could make it thinner where you don't need metal fittings around it like stem and brake or gear levers

one can do a professional job with rattle cans, with about 60 euros. i don't know the price of paint in nl but in britain it's just less than a tenner per can. you need buy lots of sandpaper (cheap)

sand back to undercoat or main colour, (remove laquer)
be careful not to affect decals though... leave space around edges of a gew centimeters

make sure it's a totally naked frame!!!
get hand paint for the base layers. it's a lot cheaper.
you need to apply thin coats of enamel or direct to metal paint, a big can and a brush doesn't cost much. get a good colour match, but exact doesn't matter. hand paint, (2 thin coats better than 1 thick coat) then after every 2 or 3 coats sand back with fine paper, say 180 grade or finer. you have to keep a good few centimeters away from decals for safety, but you can always mask it off. the idea is smooth and shiny, so polish if neccessary! (but wash before re painting. )
you need a smooth transition between old and new coats.

then, with auto paint, spray a few coats of exact colour match. you migh need a couple of rattle cans. Even, Smooth, Thin, Minimal (practise first)
sand with very fine paper, or maybe just polish it if you did well. get any runs out but leave your pristene coats nice.
then laquer it with the rest of your budget, sanding and polishing between coats.
leave at least 24 hours between coats, especially colour and laquer!!

you need lots of laquer, it the protecting layer. the colour is delicate and will fall off at the mere thought of metal to metal contact without and inch of laquer to protect it. ok not an inch, but you know...

good luck...

What happens if you ride your summer wheels in the winter? Does your head implode?

what happens is that it doesn't rain enough, in spring we get drought, so when it does rain lots we get flood warnings while in the drought.

is the lock ring steel of some kind of ally? most are steel. sometimes on dutch bikes they're plastic and you have to go to someone with the correct dutch bike tool, but it doesn't look like it's the case here.

tapping the hook bb tool with a rubber or wood mallet often does it. the hammer and screw driver meathod does work but it will damage the lock ring inserts the more you do it. i use that as i last option.

good luck...

in milano i was given a old lugged steel frame, maybe mid 70's, the markings are very typical of a milanese racer. all the lettering has been rubbed off, but there's a faded sun shadow where the brand was on the down tube. it seems to say 'supeza' or similar. does anyone know more about this?

also i came across a frame for the dutch bike shop i did some work for. it is a racer, possibly dutch (it came from holland), has only the name 'mann' on it apart from a dutch bike shop sticker. it is beautiful 70's lugged steel frame, bright orange with silver lugs.

if anyone has any clues i'd be grateful, especially about the supeza(?) as i have been thousands of miles accross europe and britain on that bike and i love it.

cheers

beautiful, no?

i toured the jura mountains with a guy on a fixed, we thought he was crazy. of course he was, but he managed and did better than us on our tourers.
those mountains are steeeep....