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If you want silver go for the soma ones. A bit more expensive but I paid out the delta in sandpaper and the anodising was so hard that sanding down was a nightmare

On the bontys? Are a bit but its my fault for pushing them up so far. I'm mainly on the top or riding on the hoods so its not too bad. Haven't ridden on it too much yet though so may yet agree as one of the reasons for fitting compacts was easier and more stable access to drops!

Thanks to all the contributors to this post who have helped to make my ride far more comfortable

Sand papering the bontys was a pain; learnt through experience never to buy halfords wet and dry. Will post a pic when I get them on.

Sounds like a 'wait till my wife & baby visits the outlaws and stays for the night' job - finally managed to convert my old bad boy to a SS when she went last week. Keeping my fingers crossed that she doesnt wait till xmas. I reckon satin will be fine (unless the technomic is super shiny).

Balls, the only silver ones are those £100 Nittos - did anyone go ahead with the polishing in the end? - bought a Nitto Technomic to raise the hight and really don't want a black middle section.....

Oh dear - don't have any spare inches to lose - better think about changing brands....

This morning I swapped out a heavy pair of halo twinrails for light 1.3 contis (26"). I immediately noticed how much less effort I had to put in using the same gear range as previous day which meant I changed up to the higher gear range off the large chainring. When I put the details into a gear calculator the gear ratio decreased with the smaller tyre so assuming that weight and tread were the main factors but interested in any other views. Tenuous link to this forum is that I will convert to ss but want to have option of swapping wheels - this will present an issue if my tyre choice impacts gear selection. Alternatively I could man up and get my legs stronger for the larger tyre!!

Job well done. I really need to get the missus into cycling (although bit hard with 4 month old in tow). Will post build shots as it happens - will also try to get a kitchen based shot in as well for coffee paraphernalia comparison!

FWIW if you want an inline carbon post, I have this outland one.

Well priced, good seat clamp mechanism, and has lasted me well. It's not superlight or anything, but it's held up well on several frames. Also as it's an mtb post I'd guess it's designed as being slightly tougher(?).

Thanks for suggestion - am building up a hardtail Mtb (just sold the ss to fund) ans sourced a Thomson elite for cheap)

my guess is the post was slightly too narrow and then the bolt over tightened, so the seat tube/clamp angled in a little and gouged away at the seat post.

Good bit of Holmes deduction!! What's the best tip about fractional sizing (forum advice or is there anything more formal?) maybe my Allen key could do with a Gauge...(used to have a hex key with gauge for my Audi roof bars which stopped over tightening )

seatposts are not all exactly the size stated, serotta warned me that a thomson 27.2 seatpost is often fractionally smaller, though this is not such an issue with aluminium posts

Good tip - however whats the way of telling (apart from trial and error). With your point in mind I wonder if the alloy core was correct size but then the wrap took it up my a few mm - or the other way round) - what is more likely to cause a crack from general use - post too small or too large?

right size is a relative term......some seatpost come fraction of mm bigger or smaller than others and so do seattubes.......for instance you can a have 27.2mm frame where one of the two same size seatposts will slip the other one wouldn't....looks like yours was fraction bigger despite frame and post being same size......plus bolt at the back and carbon is something lot of people wouldn't recommend

Stock post had the size on it - also measured tube - however if stock post was wrong and my tape measure skills poor then fair play. What's the issue with bolt for full carbon btw - pressure applied in non-optimal direction (in this case just a wrap post however so standard alloy post beneath)

Out of curiosity is the seatclamp on the front or back of the seattube?

Bolt at back

Right size - not bothered about the wrap coming off - bigger issue is the huge t shaped crack that covers half the circumfrance of the post!!!!

I think this was the cheap carbon wrap version - ridden on my commuter @ 70m per week

Prefer the M324 and no probs on flat side with Mtb shoes - had the single sided touring pedals (looked like the photo posted by smallfurry) but can be a bitch at traffic lights if the pedal spins wrong side side up when trying to clip in as no solid contact area to push down on ( however I guess your tour route will probably not take you through central London so probably less of an issue!)

Just ordered some Marzocchi 44 rlo's (140 travel). Componants start arriving next week!!

How was the first outing?

Rigid or sus (I'm doing same build for me in a few weeks with fork still needed)

Sold

For sale is my Pearson touché singlespeed for £250 - nr turnpike lane north london but can meet up work hours in city. Ideal for someone around 5 6" - 5 9". I'm 6ft with 34 inseam and recently had to add a stem extender to stop getting back ache (lesson learned on sizing down for sporty fit). Paint in great nick. Marks include cable rub on head tube from back brake cable, one light chip near pearson decal on left side of down tube and some minor chips around bottom of seat stays from lock use. Also scuffs to black lever ends. There's some pitting on spd bit in pedals, wheel nuts & a few other bolts but will try and clean off.

Flip flop hub 18t
48t front chainring fsa cranks & shimano one sided SPD pedals
54 st
54.5 tth
Pizazz carbon stem
Carbon forks
Fsa carbon pro seat post (think its wrap rather than full carbon)
Time trial bars with tektro bar end levers
Ambrosio duel pivot adjustable calipers
Halo aerotek front wheel on halo hub (about 100m old), original keymet xr300 on back, on formula hub
Specialized armadillo tyres (25c) abbout 300m old
New chain just fitted - brake pads about 200m old
Going to swap the charge spoon seat pictured for the original black viscount which is more padded and a bit narrower and in perfect nick.

Selling as I'm moving to Brighton and want a hardtail for the downs (wife mandated one in / one out).

This forum rocks - although laughed out loud too many times, woke up the baby and now she's going spare!!!

Reason I posted this was that when I started commuting on the 'sad boy' an oik from Evans told me that buying some slicks would speed up my commute (and being an idiot I believed him and bought some gator skins). In reality I think the speeds of a commute is more down to avoiding traffic lights and getting stronger legs). Now has anyone know where you can get hold of those magic beans.....

Been riding my Pearson touché for last year or so but started to get bored with both the bike and bone shaking ride (running 700 x 25 specialized armadillos at max psi). I had a rusting (and much hated stretched out steerer tube cut too low) bad boy in the garden with slicks, so upgraded with 45 degree on one stem, high riser bar and 2.2 halo twin rails at 50 psi. Result = armchair ride over North Londons third world road network. However most surprising was that I get to work in exactly the same time....even thought the chainset is knackered and the bike feels a couple of kilos heavier. Conclusion is that due to traffic lights and traffic, 'upgrading' to skinny tyres just for commuting is utterly pointless

Doesn't quite have aesthetic of empty, halved, white cider bottle but cool idea if you don't run fixed mudguards

I ride a blue 54 touché about the same commute - perfect apart from last couple of days where strong crosswinds reall catch the flat tubes and aero wheel set (nearly put me under a bus riding up city road)

What frame size you going for btw - read on a review that the cc has clearance up to 50 but tested on a 54 frame (56 top tube) the toe overlap was pretty bad. I'm an interested party as looking to build up a cc myself.