Search results for:

Please guys. Latex is nothing but trouble.

Used sammy slick tubulars for commuting for 2 years (3 pairs/6 tyres). Several punctures successfuly mended with continental revo sealant. Rear good for about 1500 km, had 3 replaced by schwalbe because of bulges forming before tread was done though. I thought ride was OK, but this year I'm on tufo flexus dry plus and it's no comparison. Tufos much suppler and totally round unlike sammy slicks.

Howard, rotors are fresh from Kettle Cycles, SiC ceramic. About the static lefty (must remember this!), I get stopped by many to tell me how wrong this fork is. Some even get quite angry at the sight of it. I find it fascinating. Hi-speed descents are a riot on this bike. It's very stable and very late braking is possible...

To choose parts, obviously. This is no hybrid, though. It is single in everything, purpose as well.

It took me two years to know what I want/finish this build. It was a journey with rodeo inserts.

Well, after I decided what I want my local dealer had them in three days. 28 and 32 spoke counts. The price you mention doesn't include customs and if (when more likely) a rim fails you are alone. Happened to me.

I have an urge to build a disc brake CX wheelset based on carbon tubs rims with no braking surface. There are a few XC 29er race rims out there that fall into this category. As I dont race CX/XC I have no excuse though. Just curious.

May splash out on carbon 29er rims from Farsport et al, when I've finished all my other projects properly.

I suggest that before Chinese you should consider Corima rims. Not that much more expensive and potentially many headaches saved... I wish I had the sense...
I'm currently building something and I'm super happy with Corimas. At the moment I use Schwalbe Sammy Slick tubulars (33mm) for commuting and so far no punctures...

I had an identical symptom two years ago. The post was replaced by the manufacurer (warranty).
I always put collars on reversed and never over-tighten.
The problem never repeated itself with the new post in the same bike.
If you continue to use your damaged post, the torque required so the post is not slipping will become greater because the part with the bulge is delaminated and compressible.

Such is life...

Sad to say, but no. You should find a way to accomodate either 53/39 or 50/34 combo IMO ;-)

I've used both and find Cannondale's better in weight and looks departement. Also harder wearing. Didn't have any problems shifting with either. A crank like hollowgram only deserves best ;-)

Stronglite chainrings are a lot heavier than Cannondale's own - how come you chose them?

Decigrams, wow, hat off to you, Sir!

Very, very nice, crying for some silver spokes&rims IMHO, though.

I measure my 28mm ones only about 26.5mm on 20mm wide rims at 5.5bar. And they only weigh 250g.

I'm using the 28mm model and like them a lot. Cheapest place to buy them is, I think, here:

http://www.velo-motion.com/Race-Components/Tires-Clincher/Continental-Grand-Prix-4-Season::122.html

Here is mine, I think it's a very beautiful crank and great for SS:

Mission workshop VX messenger bags don't have a padded back - unfortunately.

Why, thanks, and for the kind help!

You can't leave us hanging like that!

What have you got?

Not very exciting, but it is light and capable of enduring my 80 kg. Still a joy to ride...

Carbon roadie - 5.85 kg
Alu 3-speeder - 9.40 kg

Love them both.