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Hi Engineer, Apologies for the delay in replying. now 18/6/14/. Have sick parents, mum now in care and slowly dying. Dad isn't well either. Chaos at our place. Cycling hasn't been on my mind for a long time. Right now i'll pass. Appreciate your offer.
Roger

To the top, nice bike!!

Cheers RIH
Will look forward seeing them, the more the better !

Ok RIH
am interested, do you have any pics of the bike??

i think they are mostly buyers / collectors on there rather than sellers

Bit perfectionist, agree collectors Dicki, the site has Aussie members, they are fine. Buying is a pain tbh, am not a fan though a good reference point as I indicated.

Funnily enough I am 6ft 1 and have long legs and love the ride of my 57/57.5 Cougar.

Have ridden a few bikes and as much as the geometry says this is the ideal size for my height, it comes down to how you feel on it. Am no daily rider just weekends and have a 531 57cm Team Pro and a couple of 58cm Gazelles. They all work for me. Not sure why, they just do.
Cheers, Roger

There's one on eBay, not mine.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TI-Raleigh-Ilkeston-Team-SBDU-Reynolds-531-58cm-Frameset-/200945759829?pt=UK_Bikes_GL&hash=item2ec94cf655

Am talking to the seller and see what develops. Might not be this frame I follow up on.
Cheers, Roger

Update: was gazumped at last minute, thems the breaks and not sure seller was keen to ship downunder!

maybe put something in here

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TI_RALEIGH_TEAM_PROS/

Am with this group Dicki and not the easiest bunch to do business with. A good source of info on frames and paint. Will leave it there!
Cheers for the reply, Roger

At 6ft 1 I would have ordinarily thought a 57/58 is a smidge small for you unless you have relatively short legs in comparison ;o) I'm 5ft 11 and ride a 59c-c/62c-t Raleigh titanium (Spec. Products Div)
I know you have what you like but seems surprising that a 60cm doesn't work for you, have you also tried putting an ad on Retro Bike?

Thanks for the post. I know what your saying (have long legs btw) 58 is right, I can get away with a 57 and tbh when I tried a 59 thought it was too big. Could be I need to ride a 59 for longer and get used to it

Put to the test a 58 is what I am comfortable with on the road
Cheers Roger.

Will broaden the net a bit here. As this is moving or not like treacle!

Yep still looking for a 531 Team Pro.

But will take a look at a Raleigh Competition GS 531 as well, still a 57cm or 58cm ctc.

Same as before got to have pics and am only after a frameset & orig forks!
Cheers, Roger

G'day Booboo,
Not the right size mate, to big for me.
Am 6'1 and that size have tried and its a no go.
Cheers for the offer, Roger

Hi,
HB 58cm is ideal but have team panasonic which is 57 and its a good bike, great to get out n about on.
Cheers, Roger

Hi, Am after a Ti Raleigh 58cm frameset - SBDU 531 is good.- A good Raleigh Competition GS is also good!!
.
Long as its straight and clean no probs, will be looking at the condition with a view to refurbishing if necessary.
Yep I know about being original and all part of the bike and its history. Very aware that after 25-30years the frame will also need a good clean inside and out. Rust I hate with a passion

Pictures of the frame and forks essential esp the BB shell. Pm with me with information and i'll get back to you with my email address.
Shipping to Australia covered.. as long its well packed.
Cheers, Roger

Yes agreed a spanking example of a 753 Banana frame. If only I could get one in Australia..or 531 perhaps. The Aussies sell gaspipes for too much and not my size (58cm)

Bump: Nice Gazelle worthy of a new home!

nice frames, see your pm

price drop
BASSO
140gbp
posted

Have got a set of 600's I want to use, they are NOS but a modern brake pad has me guessing!

I have the original shoes just want to know a modern pad that stops in the rain. Does Kool Stop make one if so which one?? If not which brand can I go with??

Will use them if I can with Fulcrum 5 Rims!
Thanks in advance, Roger

Thks for the info on the Ambrosio 1+n, the clearances aren't the prob right now...can hear a pin drop from LBS...to hard basket.
Which Ambrosio wheelset???? Be interested to know and go from there
Cheers Roger

Depends on the rear spacing 126 or 130 ?
Ambrosio do a nice retro looking wheelset all silver but with a cassette for 7,8 shimano that may work for you if on friction shifters.

Am building up a late 80's 531 Gazelle. Have a Campag SR Fr and Rear derailleur and am now looking to source a modern/retro look Campag SR compatible wheelset.

Have seen Halo and Velocity and as yet no one (LBS) can ID a particular wheelset to suit.

Am sure there are other brands I could use...just need to know which one/s to check out?

Any suggestions as to the Halo or Velocity or another brand, be good to know who I can get them from.
Cheers, Roger, Melbourne. Australia

Am after a Campy NR or SR groupset for my late 80's Gazelle 531. Will also look at a Chorus or Delta Groupset as well.

As am now downunder, payment by Paypal including postage. Am not after wheels or a BB. Wheels will get crushed by our respective postal services and are hard to pack securely! The BB is extra weight and added cost.

The Gazelle frameset is NOS so the groupset needs to be in good nick. Let me know whats out there and Pm me for my email address and forward me some pictures.

Cheers, Roger, Melbourne. Australia.

Hi Sherms

Appreciate the info, Sheldon Brown knows his stuff!

The Campag crankset was purchased from the USA (NW Coast) via The Bay, hence me asking about threads. They are Campag by the way...Have checked to make sure I wasnt having a bad day.... see also nightmare!

Got me bluffed, the bike in question came to me with Shimano Golden Arrow cranks and MKS sylvan pedals. (A new Campag BB installed btw) I have re-checked these cranks the original pedals and they screw in to the shimano ok, finger tight and finish off with a spanner/shifter. The old pedals have had it, just so as you know :)

Leaving me to wonder are both crank threads stripped or damaged in a way I can't detect, OR, as the last post said MKS made their products with a snug fit esp with the Campag NR cranks?

As I said to Malaysian above, my LBS will be getting my hard earned. Have never had this issue before..... but there's always a first time.! Will post the LBS response / fix just so as you guys can sleep at night :)
Happy New Year
Cheers, Roger

Pedal
The part you put your foot on. The axles of the pedals screw into the cranks.

**Pedal Threading **
[INDENT]Direction
[INDENT]The right pedal has a normal thread, but the left pedal has a left (reverse) thread. The reason for this is not obvious: The force from bearing friction would, in fact, tend to unscrew pedals threaded in this manner. It is not the bearing friction that makes pedals unscrew themselves, but a phenomenon called "precession".

You can demonstrate this to yourself by performing a simple experiment. Hold a pencil loosely in one fist, and move the end of it in a circle. You will see that the pencil, as it rubs against the inside of your fist, rotates in the opposite direction.

Ignorant people outside the bicycle industry sometimes make the astonishing discovery that the way it has been done for 100 years is "wrong." "Look at these fools, they go to the trouble of using a left thread on one pedal, then the bozos go and put the left thread on the wrong side! Shows that bicycle designers have no idea what they are doing..."

Another popular theory of armchair engineers is that the threads are done this way so that, if the pedal bearing locks up, the pedal will unscrew itself instead of breaking the rider's ankle.

The left-threaded left pedal was not the result of armchair theorizing, it was a solution to a real problem: people's left pedals kept unscrewing! I have read that this was invented by the Wright brothers, but I am not sure of this.

Note! The precession effect doesn't substitute for screwing your pedals in good and tight. It is very important to do so. The threads (like almost all threads on a bicycle) should be lubricated with grease, or at least with oil.
[/INDENT]Thread Sizes

[]Most pedals have 9/16" x 20 tpi threads.
[]Pedals for one-piece cranks are 1/2" x 20 tpi.
[]Older French bicycles used a 14 mm x 1.25 mm thread, but these are quite rare. French-threaded pedals are commonly labeled "D" and G" (French for "droite" and"gauche" (right and left). A French pedal will start to thread into a 9/16 x 20 crank, but will soon bind. Do not force it, or it will damage the crank.
[]In the early 1980s, Shimano attempted to popularize a very large thread size, called "Dyna Drive." This system was designed to place the pedal bearing inside of the crank, so that the foot could be slightly below the pivot point of the pedal bearing. This was believed to offer biomechanical advantages, but the system was not a commercial success, and has been abandoned.

**Pedal Threading **
[INDENT]Standard-3-piece cranks
9/16" (0.56") x 20 tpi
14.28 x 1.27 mm

One-piece (American) Cranks
1/2" (0.50") x 20 tpi
12.7 x 1.27 mm

Old French
14 mm x 1.25 mm
0.55" 20.32 tpi
[/INDENT]**Pedal Types **

[*]Plain pedals rely on the rider's coordination to keep the foot properly located on the pedal. This type of pedal is most popular with beginner or unsophisticated riders, who fear being unable to put a foot down in a hurry.
[*]Toe-clippable pedals (sometimes known as "rat trap" or "quill" pedals) which work with stirrup-like clips and adjustable straps to hold the foot in place. These were the near-universal choice of knowledgeable cyclists until the 1980's. Toe-clip pedals, especially "platform" pedals, may be used either with normal street shoes or with special cleated shoes. The use of cleated shoes with toe clips, however, was made obsolete by the development of:
[*]Clipless pedals, which provide a positive connection between the shoe and the pedal, without the constriction of straps. Some clipless shoe-pedal systems have protruding cleats, while others have recessed cleats so the shoes are walkable.

[/INDENT]*via sheldonbrown.com*

Hi Malaysian

Yep pedals on the correct side..MKS stamp "L & R" on the pedals :)

The pedals screw in about a quarter of the way in with fingers. Am aware that over tightening will strip the crank threads. I thought perhaps wrongly the pedals are screwed in finger tight n finished off wth a shifter/spanner!

My LBS installed the cranks and looks like a visit to them for a bit of guidance
Thanks, Roger

silly question, have you got the pedals on the correct side (one pedal is for left, other is for right crank)...

They should be screwing in towards the front wheel if you follow me.

also, a dab of grease and a gentle hand when installing them so as not to damage the crank threads.

Got a question, the MKS pedals are 9/16 threads, I purchased the above pedals, and they don't fit the Campag NR cranks! Silly question are the threads in the cranks compatible? IE French, Italian or English threads? In the same way as the BB has different threads.

Sherms, got a great deal from the link you provided..free postage...will be out riding soon, thanks again!

Thanks for the info Sherms!