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bearings sold

saddle now sold

cinelli milano bar plugs come with bar

the bars

The width is 150mm

Well i'm not London centric,but if you're anywhere near Bath,i live 10 miles away.

Firstly i have some unused Phil Wood bearings for sale.PWXR8 compatible with kiss off track and front hubs:- set of four.SOLD

Next up is a Specialized Toupe expert saddle.Titanium railed,205grams, only been used a couple of times.No scuffs.SOLD

Thirdly i have a pair of Dia Compe friction shifters for sale.Never been removed from packaging:-18 pounds posted.

Finally i have a Condor Supremacy handlerbar up for grabs.Pictures to follow.Looks almost new but has seen some usage 18 pounds posted.

Prices are for the UK postage only.Many thanks for looking.

Planet x are currently selling 103 jis bbs for a tenner.fsa or stronglight.The fsa looks a good bet,it has larger bearings.Postage is an extra couple of quid.

I’m also trying to work out which size track nuts I need as the fronts and rears are a mismatch.......... and, man, do those old brake blocks squeak. Still fiddling to shut them up...

Front and rear axles are usually different diameters.You'll probably need 9mm track nuts(M9) up front and 10mm(M10) at the rear.Could be the rear axle is 9.5mm,unlikely though.

The front of the brake pad needs to touch the rim just before the back, to avoid squeeling.So, either reposition the pads or sand a tiny bit of rubber from the rear of the pad (about 1mm).

Really special looking bike you got there.

Your crown race needs to be seated correctly on the crown fork.As you have mentioned your probably gunna have to remove some of that paint and then gently tap the crown race into place.

What a dickhead.... he never got picked for the team at school did he ?

Actually he was a very good runner

Vintage and modern can go (see here* *www.flickr.com/photos/paperthin/2935521100/in/pool-568400@N24/
The sugino messenger crank can be found for around 90 bucks from Dolans ebay shop(free delivery too).

@freezing77 + moth.Thanks fellas,worked out all right.

Mavic cxp33 rims arent the best the choice for a newbie wheelbuilder.cant see the offset drilling pattern for the woods and the trees.

Taking your rim/wheelbuilding problems down to your LBS is always a good option.they'd give you lots of free advice,or maybe even ask if you could watch one of their mechanics put a wheel together.they'd talk you through the whole process and you'd learn a lot of valuable tips.

As a side note,Halfords said they'd true my wheel for me only it would take half an hour, yet cost 20 quid! One hours work on a bike-40!!!!!

Okay,started my first wheel build the other day and realized afterwards, that the spokes surrounding the valve hole were not parallel and so proceeded to re-lace the entire wheel.
Only thing is now, that although the lacing pattern looks correct it kinda resembles a basket weave.As in, the spokes are far from straight and do not sit well in the spoke holes on the flange.Of course more tension will pull in the slack, but i cant see that if i begin the trueing process that the spokes will bed in properly.Ive added some photos,any help welcome thanks.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bluelug/6149931986/in/set-72157627675368322

kleenex at the ready,here's the money shot.

i actually think you need to use a high pressure can as apposed to low.i used some montana 94 and the paint seemed to 'hang' in the air rather then get propelled onto the frame.As a consequence any paint particles in the air,that didnt initally connect with the frame, then floated down onto it creating an uneven surface.
montana paints are a matt finish,but there are plenty of laquers available to help give your frame a glossy coat.

having previously cut and made some stencil artwork using halfords carpaint,i always found the results very disappointing.Frankly the paint lacks lustre.Graff artists usually swear by Krylon,although i dont think its available in this country,Belton however is, and its of the highest quality, and comes in 251 different colours.Also, you can buy a selection of different cap sizes to get a finer spray (or thicker if you wish).useful for spraying areas where tubes butt into one another and you need more control and dont want such a thick coat.Changing caps between coats is probably a good idea too,to prevent blocking and uneven spray caused by dried paint in the cap.
I say all this without having sprayed a frame before,but im stripping one now and hope to commence spraying within about a week.I will be using Belton.i will let you know the results ;)