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Wondering if guys could give me some advice.

I have a philwood track hub and I want to apply a Halo fixed track cog 1/8th, both of them have the same threading but would I need a Halo lockring to go with it? ATM I have a philwood lock ring.

I've just picked up a freewheel cog off brick lane bikes after they told me it's fine. The mechanic leader said that I should trust him... Anyone think I shouldn't?

Maybe Phil Wood hubs are different but I've always found that freewheel and fixed sprocket threads are the same. It is only the width of the threaded part that are different.

Standard ISO freewheel thread is 1.375" isn't it? Perhaps that's why they say it'll fuck the threads, since yours is 1.370". I don't know if that .005" will damage the threads - now personally I would screw it on by hand and if it feels at all like it's tight or binding, then I wouldn't do it.

I've also heard that some sprockets (EAI specifically) have plating that is thick enough to damage the Phil threads - perhaps that is what they're concerned about.

Could you please recommend me some? They told me that the cogs have to be non plated as it'll damage the threads. They also told me not to use surly or east-asia (i think it's called) cogs as they're too thick. I'm going to bricklane on sunday so I'll probably check it out.

I currently have a Phil wood track hub with only one fixed side, the thread on these are 1.370 x 24 tpi.

What I wanted to do is apply a freewheel cog onto the fixed threads, I've checked out various forums and people say that it's do able however when I sent an email to the customer service over at Phil wood, they said that they absolutely don't recommend doing as the threads will be fucked. I'm not sure who to believe.

I have various options

1. man up and ride it fixed for the time being
   
2. Just atleast attempt it, I'm not sure what cog I could use, so if you have any suggestions, please mention.
   
3. Sell the wheel and hub and get a wheel with a flip flop hub. I was contemplating on doing so but I really want to get on my bike asap and ride. Also, I'm not sure how much I could sell my wheel and hub for, it's a **HSON rim with a phill wood hub **which is 5 months old.
   
   

What option would be best for me? Note: I have bought a rear brake already, so i'd have to sell that too if i were to opt out of trying.

Thanks

I'm planning on putting a single speed sprocket (19T, 1/8'') on a phil wood fixed hub. I was wondering if I could apply something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Single-Speed- ... 674wt_1023 ? Or is the quality too poor ? In which case, would this Surly Single Speed Sprocket be better?

Also would I use this technique to put it on? Mikes Bikes: How to Install a Cassette - YouTube

i.e. Grease hub and threads> screw on sprocket> tighten with freewheel remover tool thingy... done! Am I right?

Thanks

May I ask why you'd want to swap it?

Are you happy with the 46x18 (69") on your old bike? if so that is the gear to go for. As 790 said chainrings on single speed have a pretty easy life but there is no doubt that different brands can vary in hardness. Also they can vary in the degree of "roundness" Some nasty chainrings can cause the chain to run tight and slack because they are slightly elliptical. Impossible to tell in the shop of course.

Just seen this on the Velosolo website

***Token Track Chainset

A new track chainset from Token with traditional square taper fitting. Forged 7075 aluminium alloy arms with 144mm BCD (compatible with Token chainrings only). Complete with 1/8" 48t CNC 'Shuriken' chainring***
I am at a loss to understand how there can be compatability issues on a track chainset if the BCD is right but maybe it would be best to stick with Miche.

I'm not comfortable with my current ratio of 46/18, It does become abit of a struggle when I try to stop but I suspect that happens with all fixed gears, I do want to downgrade defiantly but I don't know to what. Does that mean that token is only compatible with the token arms?

Happy to be contradicted. My daughter recently bought a Foffa and that came with 46x16 which I felt was too high. Years ago I was on a steady training ride on flat roads and there were about sixteen riders in the bunch, I went up and down the line to check and everybody was on 42x16. OK in those days we only had ten gears to choose from but I felt there was a lesson there. I am sure Jonario will be happy with 48x16, for sure it will be a big improvement on what he has now.

I've just checked my old bike and it has a 46/18 ratio, so an 48/16 is out of the question lol.
You reckon I should down grade to 46/19? or 44/18 I'm using this to determine the difficulty btw...

Does the brand actually matter? As I said, I have a miche crankset but I want to replace the chain ring, the miche chainring is £35 and the token is £24 which one should I go for?

Spinning refers to applying pressure for the full rotation of the cranks, rather than just pushing down (honking) on the down stroke. Usually implies a faster cadence (spin of the cranks).

One steep muthafugga of a learning curve you're on!

I know, I know. It's gradually getting better...

That granit in the picture is doing absolutely nothing, apart from when they steal your wheel, they'll have to cut it off at home... There is no necessity for 3 d-locks, if they can cut one, then they can cut three. (assuming similar quality)

Considering what other posted, I think I can attach the front wheel to the frame to the pole. Also, if I were to leave locked up somewhere I'm sure a thief would think twice about the amount of work he has to do to get through all 4, no?

Hi, I was thinking about having this set up shown by my awesome paint skills. Yellow =**Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Mini. **Orange = **Kryptonite Mini Pro evo. **Grey = **Abus Granit X-Plus 54. **I'd use the abus granit at the rear end if I can attach both ends to the pole, If not I'd used the fahg instead as I trust it more. After reading most of this thread, I'm beginning to lose trust in the Granit and I was thinking of getting a **Kryptonite New York M-18 **to replace it. Is this a good idea? I know they'd all be Kryptonite if I do replace it, which isn't very good as thiefs will use the same technique...

I know this extra bit belongs in the 'how to lock your bike technique' but I might aswell post it here.
I was thinking of using two kryptonite mini pro evo to attach the frame to the pole, shown in the above image.
I'm not quiet sure if this will work but if it does, is it an inefficient way of using an extra U-lock?
Here it is.
Purple = Frame
The two locks are kryp pro evos
The non colored cylinder = pole
I think by doing this you'd reduce the space between the locks thus harder to break them... What do you think? Note: both u locks intertwine

As you can see I'm gonna go all out military security on my bike :P

Assuming that your transmission is in good nick I can see little point in changing both your chainring and sprocket so if you stick with the current 16 teeth I reckon you want a chainring between 42 and 46 depending on if you like to push or spin, and your route of course. Check the gear on your other bike ie teeth front and rear then come back and I will tell you what chainring would give you the same gear with a 16 tooth sprocket.

I checked what push and spinning mean't on the that sheldon brown website. I usually push... But apparently that causes knee damage, so i'll probably change to spinning (i.e. starting slowly... right?).

That is a track racing gear you have. I have assumed, perhaps wrongly, that you use the bike for just riding around, maybe commuting. If that is the case I think even a 48x16 could be too high so if you go for the 48t it may still be too high and you would have to get another sprocket as well. Have you ever had a road bike and if so what gear felt right for cruising?
The chainring from Evans looks fine. I have just checked the price of a TA 1/8th chainring at Spa cycles and I was shocked to see they are £34!!

Yeah, it's pretty much for commuting. I have current fixed gear bike with me, I have to check the ratio 2morrow, although I do vividly remember counting to 48 for the front chain ring. On that bike, I kinda struggle going up hills. So should I consider a 48/18?

Oh and even though it's a track gear with 48t it'll still do the same job as a non track gear with 48t right?

Back in the day when derailleurs were crap and nobody had any money anyhow guys would tour the Yorkshire Dales on 48x18. I used 50x20 which is a little lower because I was a useless climber. With your 52 ring a 20t sprocket would give you a similar gear to 48x18. Might be worth considering if you are on fixed and can get a cheap sprocket
Single speed is always a compromise but unless you have a stiff climb every day 48x18 will be OK.
3/32" and 1/8th" are the nominal widths of chains. I couldn't get your link to work.
What is your back cog at present?

Oh sorry here it is again Evans Cycles | Token Track Chainring 1 1/8" | Online Bike Shop

My back cog is 16t, I was thinking of temporarily having it single speed so i'd need a single speed cog.

165mm is for sure the crank length. 144 bolt circle diameter is the old Campag road standard and I believe is current on their and many other track chainsets. It will take a ring down to 42t although 48x18 is the perfect riding around fixed gear.
Track bikes often have a 1/8th inch chain and ring/sprocket (slightly wider) but a "road" 3/32" chainring will work OK. TA make good rings in quality alloy.
If you go from 52t to 48t you may well have to take a couple of links out of your chain.

Thanks, will a 48x18 be able to tackle hills? I know it mostly leg muscle/power but will that ratio be enough?

Also, I was looking at this vhttp://www.evanscycles.com/products/token/track-chainring-1-1-8-ec020838?query=Chain%20ring but it doesn't say the BCD... It does however, as you mention, have 1/8'' but thats nothing to do with BCD right?

When I'm looking at chain rings, sometimes they don't give the BCD, is there another way of writing the BCD?

Miche Advanced cranks have a BCD of 144, so you can fit any chainring, regardless of brand, that also has a BCD of 144.

You've correct me :P Is the 165mm the diametre?

Here is you Saturday evening read where you will find the answer (get also a cup of tea) http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bcd
:)

haha thanks, I've checked this site and I understand a few things. I found this http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-bcd.html from the link you sent me. Since it's 5 bolt and it' BCD is 165mm, the lowest ring it can take its a 44t? Correct me if i'm wrong please.

I bought a bike with a Miche advanced cranks with 52t. I was thinking of changing the chain ring only to a 48t, must I only buy a miche chain ring or can I buy other brands? Also, does it really matter if it's just a normal steel chain ring? Note: It's a track bike

Thanks

I'm buying a bike with 52 - 16, I'm quiet a noob at all this technical stuff but the higher the ratio, the easier it is? I want to be able to climb up hills with ease, will a 16 make it hard for me?

Thanks for your reply guys (even the trolling ones ;) ) I've emailed the shop that sells them and they do fit on this frame, so imma go with that.

You want to drill a brake hole in a Vigorelli? Holy crap.

Yup! I'm truly crazy... (and a noob)

Maybe sell this, buy a different frame to tide you over and then buy another when it's more suitable? You will probably lose out at the end of the day, but that's better than drilling and potentially ruining the frame altogether.

Or, try a coaster brake on the rear. Single speed, kick back brake... what's not to like? :D

To be honest it's a few months till summer, thats when i'd changed it to fixed. I've read some clamp reviews and people are actually saying they do the job, might aswell give it ago.

Sell it and buy something more suited to the type of riding you want to do. If you drill it it'll either buckle on you and you'll get hurt or it'll never sell and you'll end up dumping it or letting it rot in a shed somewhere.

Trust me, I have a beard. It brings wisdom.

Alright, so I guess drilling is out of the question. It's either use those clamp brakes (£29) or a new frame (>£29) :/