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At 18:51 on 13 August 2012, I witnessed a cyclist being hit and falling as a result of a car turning right into Ham Street and cutting the road ahead of him.
Rider seems fine, although battered and bruised with some road rash and properly destroyed tights/jersey.

Driver stopped to give his details and his insurance company's details. Seemed apologetic, but it wasn't great.

I exchanged details with the rider, and he's been advised by the CTC to put a claim through a solicitor and report it to the police.

I've got video evidence and full account about the incident including reg etc.

Reporting it here as above, not sure what more information to add.

If you're training/racing, chances are that you're going to be pretty picky about your position on your bike(s). I'll disagree with hippy here: If you have different crank lengths, if you're serious about it, you'll notice the difference quite quickly. (For the same type of bike of course!)
It's the same thing with different bike shoes, cleats stacks, pedals thicknesses and even different thicknesses of padding in your shorts if you use those.

Also, select the length of your cranks carefully, track may require shorter cranks to be able to stand in the turns or something like this, but it can help also with opening your hip angle for better breathing. That said, the oposite might be true as well for other disciplines like pursuit where you don't need to trackstand.

But as cliveo put it: it's not just about the length of the crank, it has to work for the bike itself, and a good overall fitting will be a must do anyways.

Thanks! Awesome ride you have as well!

pm'd

Signed! 964 C'mon people! Advertised as well!

Not sure if it's even worth asking: sure you've got the same size chain, cog and chain ring?
Also, checking chain alignment may help.
I've had my fuji for 2 years now, done more than 1000 miles on it and chain/cog/chain ring are all in good shape. And I do run them quite tight.

In that case, I'd go for a recessed type nut with a filed washer.
There is also a nice idea from Sheldon right here: http://sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html#mounting

option 3 for front mounting: Use the short recessed nut, but don't put it through the back of the fork. Instead, push it up into the inside of the steerer from the bottom. You can reach a 5 mm Allen wrench in through the hole in the back of the fork, and poke the short caliper bolt in from the front. You may need to shorten the recessed nut slightly to get it to fit inside your steerer.

Seems a cool idea!! Not sure it'd fit your steed.

I was thinking to only add a washer between the nut and the fork, but I'm not sure your bolt is going to be long enough to do that. If it's long enough, the only file the washer.
Otherwise, you may have only the option to have a special washer to accomodate the recessed nut, but that may not look so good :/

Could you not add instead a thick spacer that would be itself filed to accomodate the bearing race instead of filing the bearing race? That would save you filing more important parts =)

Hi Velocio and everyone,

I'm Ellen's boyfriend and very grateful for you being there and helping. Ellen has said a lot of good things about your help and support. Thanks for that!

She's doing fine and although a bit hobbling along, she was on her bike already today and her legendary strength of mind will keep her bouncing :)

I've been myself in a bike accident (on my own around Richmond, duh...) and I've been genuinely impressed by the support cyclists (and motorists, I have to say) gave me around there, which was a nice surprise.

I'm glad you guys keep up with all these things, and that the cycling community as a whole is behind its members. I've been around the forum for quite some time to drool on everyone else's bike photos when I bought my fixie in 2008, and I only just joined the forum, but hopefully I'll keep reading great news around!

Thanks again for all your nice messages.