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Sold to asetora, no problems, buy and sell with confidence.

Sold.

Bump, £250>>£230.

This is what happens when your moving house! Your mind begins to rot...

Thanks thegreatbelow, your absolutely right! It is a Felt Dispatch. Will change. If a mod could change the title that would be much appreciated...

Felt Dispatch 61cm Black

£250, open to offers. Please PM me. I currently live in Canterbury, Kent, bike can be picked up here or delivered to any major London train station (preferably St Pancras).

I can provide original proof of purchase of this bike, please make offers in confidence. Bike is not currently listed on any other site.

More photos:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/9u4vuzzlcr9bdrj/UX-sri4QUI#/

Description:
I am moving to a hillier parts of the world and I'm not hard enough to ride fixed/single around my new home ;o)!

This bike has been much loved and is in decent condition, no dings, but the paintwork is a little scuffed on the fork, toptube and downtube, and there is a little surface rust on the some of the nuts. It is in good mechanical condition. Chain stretch is below 0.75%. This bike has never been stored outdoors.

It has Swisstop Green pads fitted and has recently had a new Shimano freewheel installed. The rear wheel is nearly new and was built by Brixton cycles. Comes with 25mm Gatorskins which still have plenty of life left in them.

I can provide this bike with the original saddle and original stem (1cm longer than the one currently fitted). I will also supply some basic pedals so you can get home on it ;o)

Charge Plug Racer 56cm (M) complete bike, good condition.

£300, open to offers. Please PM me. Bike will be supplied with new and unused Kenda tyres not Gatorskins as shown. I currently live in Canterbury, Kent, bike can be picked up here or delivered to any major London train station (preferably St Pancras).

I can provide original proof of purchase of this bike, please make offers in confidence. Bike is not currently listed on any other site.

More photos:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/n86qjkhhd5hgstt/Jg1PZNOAWG

Description:
This is my girlfriends bike, we are moving to hillier parts of the world and we are not hard enough to ride fixed/single around our new home ;o)!

This bike has been much loved and is in very good but used condition, no dings, only the usual scuffs. Mechanically, the bearings in the wheels and bottom bracket are still silky smooth. Chain stretch is below 0.75%. This bike has never been stored outdoors. It has Swisstop Green pads fitted and has recently had a new Shimano freewheel installed.

The cockpit has been changed from the original Keirin bars to a nice vintage road handle bar with Cane Creek (Campag-style) levers and has brand new Charge handlebar tape which matches the Charge Spoon saddle exactly. Comes with spare track cog for fixed side of the flip-flop hub.

I tightened the locknuts to the strength it takes to close a jar of pickles firmly, just until it felt tight enough basically.

Sounds perfect!

A well adjusted hub will have the same amount of friction to the fingers as when the cones are too loose, but with no discernible side to side play in the axle or side to side play when you wiggle the rim in the bike. Definitely no grittiness or tight spots.

In my opinion solid axle hubs don't deform like quick releases do so there is no need to leave a bit of play off the bike. A good adjustment off the bike is a good adjustment on for the solid axle. QR is a pain though.

Ah the old how tight questions. Tricky to answer on the internet.

You just need to make sure the locknut doesn't come untightened from the cone, throwing out your nice adjustment on the cone which takes ages to get right. Although solid axles are easier than QR axles to adjust.

Well, I use the standard Park Tools home workshop cone spanners which are 4" or so long, and I do them up "firmly". They are thin metal wrenches, they aren't digging into my hand or hurting or anything like that. Not putting any body weight through. Just snugged down and then an extra 1/8th of a turn I guess. Think more "stem bolt clamp" than "bottom bracket" :o)

I'm not sure about seizing the bearings... If one of the locknuts comes undone the rim will start moving laterally on the hub, which will just feel nasty to ride on and if left (for a long time) will lead to failure of the cone/cup surfaces.

Oh, French drivers are wonderful around bikes. They actually indicate and pull out into the other lane to overtake you as if you were a 'proper' vehicle doing something 'normal'. Amazing!

British drivers seem to like brushing past even on open country roads.

We took the route from the BBC guy recently (the via Gisors option). It's significantly longer than the Donald Hirsch route. My understanding is that this route (approximately) will be the official Avenue Verte route in 2012. Great route except going into Paris! Absolute nightmare, the Seine towpath just stops due to construction and the Canal St Denis, to put it bluntly, smells like shit and piss, has multiple construction sites along the way and is full of dead rats. We gave up and went in on the road.

As for the person who was asking about pace, we started just outside London on Friday, got the ferry to newhaven Saturday morning, half day cycling to Forges Les Eaux, Sunday we cycled to the national park vexin via Gisors (amazing ride! best day by far), Monday we finished into Paris.

Tubus do a whole range of very high quality p-clip type things in a range of sizes:

http://www.tubus.com/en/spares-and-accessories

Infact, I mounted my Tubus Logo with these just yesterday, along with the QR attachment. Very solid.

Important note: Put inner tube around the frame before mounting any kind of P-Clip. You will get more grip, more even application of pressure from the clamp and it will protect the finish of the frame.

Have exactly the same problem 6'3" and never found a quality waterproof bike jacket that is long enough...

The Mavic Hydro looks good, but maybe a bit techy looking for cycling around town.

any single ring chainring bolt will be fine, evans do the ison ones. i recommend using loctite threadlock on them, the red one, then you just wont have to worry about it but will still be able to loosen them when you want

I think you want the colour of the actual loctite liquid to be blue... The red stuff can only be removed by heating and is basically permanent. Note that my bottle of blue (liquid) loctite came in a red bottle. Confusing enough?

OK, well I splashed out on a torque wrench, gut feeling is that I wasn't reaching 35-45Nm required to push a crank onto the spindle, as it required a bit of effort!

A good quality p-clip is available from the German rack manufacturers Tubus in different sizes for different tubes. They take up to a 30kg rear rack (!) so should handle the job of attaching mudguards too.

My girlfriend also has the Crud Roadracer, which aren't as sturdy as the SKS chromoplastics I have, are still pretty decent.

P.S. Very organised thinking of winter riding at the moment! I'd leave it till late October at least :p

They are pretty cheap and nasty FSA Vero single speed cranks that came with my OTP fixie I use for getting to and from work.

I think I might just get a bigger torque wrench, saves all this wondering.

Thanks for the advice every one, very helpful.

I'm reasonably satisfied that I've done it right reading the descriptions here, the bolt pushes the crank onto the spline creating an interference fit, and when it reaches the correct point on the taper the force required to move it on becomes huge. At this point I did them up moderately tight by applying as much force as I can without doing anything stupid like standing on the allen key.

My gut feeling is that you would have to be gorilla to over tighten with the Park Tool 8mm hex key.

This thread has made me paranoid! Looking for some advice.

I want to replace my bottom bracket and reinstall the cranks. I have the Park Tools crank remover, BBT-32 tool, large adjustable wrench and the long Park Tools 8mm hex key.

Is it possible to apply 40Nm of torque using the long 8mm hex key to re-secure the cranks properly? I'll be honest I don't have a 'feel' for torque yet, I'm very new to repairing bicycles. My gut feeling says no, as the hex key is only 16cm long, so that would be the equivalent of hanging a 60kg-ish weight off the end of it to get it up to spec.

I have a small torque wrench already that does 2-24Nm. I'm open to buying a higher torque one, can clicker wrenches do right and left hand threads? Is there anyone in the SE (Brixton, Herne Hill) area that might lend me/let me use one under close supervision one for a few beers?

Cheers!

I'll meet anywhere in central London for pick-up.

I'll put in an offer of £45.00 for the panniers.

Summer 2009 I was cycling in Belgium along the Tour of Flanders route when someone in full Norwegian national team kit whipped past at a frightening speed (20mph+). So far, so normal along this route. Only then did I notice that the entire lower part of his right leg below the knee was made from carbon fibre and had an SPD attached to the bottom!

So don't let anyone tell you that you can't cycle fast with only one full leg :)