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Cheers to @Mr_Bump for the clamp, top man!
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WTD: Downtube shifter clamp and Shimano 7 Speed rear hub cones
I'm sure someone on here's got one lying around in a shoe box of parts somewhere. Huret style clamp or newer origin8 - single or double mount, I'm easy as long as it's functional, no smaller stem clamps though.
Also after some new cones for a rear hub, Its a 7 speed Shimano 105 (FH-1055), I've seen a full axle assembly online but £20 is just too much. Please see attached images for reference.
Cheers,
J
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Hi all,
Missus managed to snap her old clamp somehow so after a new one. I'm sure someone on here's got one lying around in a shoe box of parts somewhere. Huret style clamp or newer origin8 - single or double mount, I'm easy as long as it's functional, no smaller stem clamps though.
Also after some new cones for her rear hub, Its a 7 speed Shimano 105 (FH-1055), I've seen a full axle assembly online but £20 is just too much. Please see attached images for reference.
Cheers,
Jayson
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Nah their 2mm thread and 2mm nipples - I did read about the Ping thing somewhere - isn't that to do with twisted spokes? Anyways I think I'll take mateys advice up there and just redo the whole wheel. I will try the single butted spokes on the drive side too.
How much give are we talking when grabbing the pairs of spokes? 5mm each way sound alright? Again I don't have a reference really apart from going around town grabbing spokes on other bikes that have a 36 spoke 3cross pattern.
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by left side i mean the non-drive side on the rear wheel and by loose i mean i'll pop out for an hour on by bike get back and the wheel is slightly out of true - i check the tensions and some spokes have gone down to 10-11 on the TM-1 - there not wobbly but obviously they should be unthreading themselves like that and after a good few days of riding who knows where the spokes will end up!
So 2mm plain gauge spokes will bring the tension up on the Non-drive side, I'm assuming they'll be a lot cheaper than the DT revolutions too.
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I work on floor with my bike hanging off a broom handle between two chairs - i am far from the Cytech type. I saved up for the TM-1 as it was my first build and I don't have any reference points as to what is "tight." I'm thinking DT Revolution spokes on the Non-Drive side as they are 1.5mm at there centre so should be able to get a higher tension on them, Any thoughts?
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Built my first wheels the other week using Roger Musson's guide along with bits and bobs from the Sheldon Brown page. Part list as follows:
Exage Hubs (100mm & 126mm)
DT Swiss Competition Spokes 2.0-1.8 (296mm for front 294mm and 292mm for rear)
Mavic Open Sport Rims - 36 holeThe wheels are laced in the standard 3 cross pattern. Front wheel spokes 20-21 on the TM-1, so around 100kgf - no problems there. The rear wheel has 22-23 (117-131kgf) on the drive side and 15-16 (58-64kgf) on the left. The left side spokes keep coming loose but to tighten them more i'd have to tighten the drive side (due to the dishing) which is already too high. These measurements were also taking whilst the tire was on (110psi), not advised i know but the tire pressure lowers the tension by a good 10-20kgf I'm finding. Without the tire on the drive side is very high.
I've stressed the spokes using Musson's pinch technique and avoided spoke twisting best i could by over tightening and loosing back to the desired position. It's my first build but i really can't figure out where I've gone wrong. My only options that i can think of are thread lock but don't want to go down that route or lower gauge spokes on the non-drive side so they tighten to a higher tension without pulling the wheel dish over.
Lastly I took my TM-1 to my LBS shop today to compare it to theirs. Mine was out but 2.5 units - tested on several spokes multiple times. They said they don't use it much so i don't know how accurate their TM-1 would be. I re-calibrated mine and all the readings here are from the re-calibration.
Anyways any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Selling my Kryptonite "Kryptolok Series 2" D-Lock, comes with Halford's 6 foot flex cable (8mm) with EZ-Mount bracket and two keys. Served me well for two years and in great condition. A few scratches and bite marks but fully functional. Selling cos i need something a bit smaller.
£SOLD to gtisteve (£5 will be donated to the forums)
Cheers
Jayson
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Hi all,
I've got a Campagnolo Nuovo Record Strada headset and the crown race (the one that fits on the fork steerer tube) has some serious pitting on it and needs replacing. To buy the same headset is a bit out of my price range so just wondering if there's any compatibility within the campag range or perhaps third party that anyone knows of?
Any feedback is greatly appreciate
Cheers
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-70S-FRENCH-PEUGEOT-RACING-BIKE-58-5-CM-STEEL-FRAME-LONDON-W10-/261216943513?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D7867917090747445397%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D261216943513%26
Just seen this Peugeot posted up - excellent lugging on the frame and looks in fairly good nick for a 70s bike -
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Hi Fisk,
I own an AA Super which is 54 square and i measured 384.5 from the rear axle to the BB axle. Just thought I'd mention that my BB is also a Cinelli one with the same cable routing although my cable stop for the rear mech is on the underside of the chainstay. If i can take any more photos or measurements to aid your investigation then please let me know.