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Hello @BobbyBriggs! My apologies. You can reach me here still. I log in less these days but I've not vanished. Tandem available for viewing and collection still in Tottenham. I've PMed you.
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Are these two bolts below the exact same dimensions?
For a Cannondale Lefty Hub - and yes they are both normal Lefty 50 rather than Lefty SuperMax 60.£35 option, original Cannondale
https://www.cannondalespares.com/Cannondale-Lefty-50-Hub-Self-Extractor-Cap-and-Bolt-QC117/product_detail/3-39838.
£10 option, DT Swiss for 240 Lefty hub
https://www.freewheel.co.uk/dt-swiss-hcdxxx00s2387s-hub-bolt-for-240-lefty-hbdts2387s -
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I agree and issue is that I'm 194cm tall with a long torso - I can still fit 32" inseam trousers like a normal human but I can see over everyone's heads at a concert. So I'm all torso, baby. It is a challenge. No formal shirts will ever stay tucked in so I have to go tailor made (overseas, don't golf thread me). All cycling jerseys are cut quite high for me but Rapha jerseys are just too too high. Like there's a patch of belly skin showing when standing. Don't nobody need to see that.
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I can't think of anything besides a bent derailleur hanger, unless someone has been messing with your limit screws. Or some very specific failure in your shifter.
To check the hanger:
- Shift into a larger sprocket on the cassette.
- Stand behind the bike and look at the cage from the rear.
- Does it hang straight down or does it point in towards the spokes?
If you don't have a derailleur alignment gauge then then you can use a long 5mm allen key in the derailleur bolt (where it clamps to the hanger).
- Shift into a larger sprocket on the cassette.
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I held the brake lever tight with a strap for like 3-4 hours but tbh I had already got the brake to quite a good state by religiously following the park tool process and then doing the @chiroshi trick where you remove wheel, then squeeze twice, then replace wheel.
Brake felt good but nowhere near as crisp as a GRX lever. Customer happy anyways, so party on.
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I am having issues with a 105 hydraulic brake (front). I have bled the brake twice. I get braking force just before the lever hits the handlebars, and then lever hits bars when I squeeze. It feels like it needs a bleed, i.e. it's not a hard stop.
I haven't yet found a way to attach a syringe/hose to suck bubbles out of the brake lines. Is there a way to do this?
What else am I probably missing?
Brake lever: ST-R7020
Brake caliper: BR-R7070 -
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Two months ago I quit my corporate job as a project manager for an engineering consultancy in London. It was making me miserable.
I flew back out for a second stint in Rwanda, this time not in engineering but as workshop manager for a new bike shop café in the capital. I'm enjoying it and we're doing reasonably well - hopefully we can be profitable by next year.
Positives are fun/tangible work, no zoom calls and enjoyable conversations with customers.
Negatives are low pay, long tiring days, and the isolation created by the lower level of spoken English among my colleagues.
I'm confident I made the correct choice.
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A fun design brief you have set yourself.
Will you keep these bars or switch to drop bars?
A 10/11s groupset will work with 130 mm spacing, if that's the spacing you have. If you have 126 then spreading stays by 2 mm each side is not a crime.
I don't think you need any particular Campagnolo tools except for the cassette tool. And if you go Ultra Torque then you can just use any 10mm Allen key and a seatpost for leverage 😅. Don't go power torque unless you want to fight to remove cranks.
Consider shiny silver 10s Athena if you want ergo shifters, or maybe an 8s group if you want to use downtube levers / thumbies. Beware that 8s Campagnolo has a freehub pattern that only fits 8s Campagnolo. Doable but specific!
There are plenty of nice Campagnolo square taper cranks in 8/9/10s with rings that will go to 11s.
Earplugs: I use Happy Ears. Love them, around £11 a pair I think. Some pro musician friends use them too.