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Another shout for the Epos. Much easier to use than the velospace I have used before. Also works with longer wheelbases more comfortably.

One tip with long wheelbase bikes on the older Thule racks is to buy the fat bike adapter. They are just longer wheel straps designed for bigger tires, but they also make it easier to strap in bikes with wheels further from the centre point of the rack.

Anyone looking for a new enduro fork?

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/manitou-mezzer-pro-forks-boost

On this occasion I didn't do this. I remember doing 'by the manual' when building the bike and then forgot about it when changing chainring.

Exactly the same happened to me earlier in the summer (mine were also silent beforehand). I also assumed bolts not tight enough, so added thread locker to them when I re-torqued them at home. They've been fine since.

2nd/3rd dibs for either

That was my thinking also. But it doesn’t matter now. I spent the afternoon driving to Yorkshire for a wedding and in the meantime the bike was sold 🙃

Thanks all. That is super helpful.

On Rohloff, I was thinking of the e-14 version that tern spec. I just couldn’t find the retail costs, so assumed they go direct through shops.

Interesting to hear on the cargo enviolo, that might be a good option. Although I may just use the work that needs doing as an excuse to go Rohloff instead (we also have an old enviolo load and I hate the gripshift).

I don’t know what is wrong with the current hub as I haven’t had the chance to see the bike yet. I’ll know more tomorrow. [Edit: the bike is being sold by a tern dealer so it is otherwise new, just has an as yet unspecified problem with the hub. I assume it is not so easy as simple the freewheel otherwise they’d fix it and sell it full priced]

I’m thinking of buying a used gsd with a broken enviolo hub. Does anyone have a rough idea of how much it would cost to put a new enviolo wheel in (the gates and everything else is fine)? Or, does anyone know if I could switch it out for a Rohloff wheel (and bits) instead? And roughly how much that would cost (parts wise, I can do the fitting)?

Pm me if you have more questions.

Last point. Although I really like the bike, it does start adding up when you include shipping costs and the cost of getting a shock at retail pricing. A vitus work out better (you can increase the shock stroke when you service the shock and increase the travel that way).

Yeah, you got the answer on the sit already. But to be honest the two position lock out on the fork doesn’t do much for me. I normally use fully unlocked or the middle position on the rear shock (which I’ve set up to do very little on the fork). So twinloc with unconnected fork might work. If you did want to replace the damper and use the twinloc there is a three piston remote damper you can get through rams dealers.

I prefer the nude shock and twinloc to the fox dps pit was using as the latter had a regressive tube and the nude feels more supple. I also use the middle (reduced travel slightly firmer) setting a lot for climbing. I like that it makes the bb feel higher (less sag or less bobbing? I’m not sure) which makes the seat angle feel steeper.

What @seb1977 said. It is a carbonda fm936. There is a massive thread on it here:

http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2079.0.html

I have one that I bought off @pit. I really like it. According to the measurements of others on the thread above it can reach 115mm of travel with a 42.5 stroke shock. I now run it with 40 stroke rockshox nude shock so with a twinloc lever and a 120mm SID ultimate on the front.

Warranty support is also really good. I bought it used, and then had an issue with a possible crack near a bearing. It was so small that it wasn't really an issue (also could have been cracked paint). I messaged carbonda and they send me a new mainframe.

Bird forge size L - £300 - sold

Thank fuck for that

Is it too weird to buy a third former @pit bike?

Did this sell? I'm still interested if not

Pm on the way

Hello, I’ve also sent a pm

I’ll go third dibs on this

I’ll take the camp trousers. PM on the way

I’d happily take the seatpost if you split (or swap it out).

…

Pm on the way

I ended up removing the cables completely and putting in new ones before I realised this, so I'm not entirely sure this was the only issue.

I also had this issue. One thing it could be is that the thing that accepts the cables does not go through its full rotation if the hub is at rest (you may have noticed that the full gear range is not accessible when you stop). If you give the hub a pedal it should allow you to move the nodule thing more in both directions. This may solve your issue (or may not 🙃).

Dibs on 3
2nd dibs on 1

Pm incoming