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Had the most fun day I've had since (re)taking up mountain biking.

If anyone fancies a trip in the UK I would heartily recommend Ballater in Scotland loads of maintain trails on marked on trailforks, mastermind and heartbreak ridge being my favourites. An absolutely cracking LBS Cycle Highlands.

Heres a vid of someone else riding heartbreak ridge,

https://youtu.be/KgR68Xnhbos

Note these guys got up to the trailhead the sensible way, I rode up a downhill route called pannanich trail which would have been much better on an emtb.

Photies:

I know chem bolts would be strongest but that would be a seriously permanent installation in the house.

Not necessarily, chemical fixings are pretty easy to remove with the liberal application of heat. It is basically plastic after all so melts easily.

Thank you.

@Airhead

I've just taken on a job to restore some original windows on a 100+ year old listed building. Fairly sure that there will be lead paint involved, what is your recommendation for IR paint stripper guns?

Cheers

Just to add a bit of meta to this thread I'm just arriving at the corporate hospitality tent at St Andrews.

Sue me

Do you have a celler? It wasn't uncommon in Victorian terraced houses to have a coal chute on the front path leading to a coal cellar.

If this is the case I'd advise not putting anything too heavy on the path, say a ton bag from a builder's merchants. The structure isn't that strong and the ton bag is likely to make its own shortcut into the cellar.

It's been a while since I got my ticket and my experience apart from fitting fd30 doors as part of a loft conversion is almost entirely commercial.

But.....

Off the top of my head a door going from a communal hallway to a flat should be fd60 according to today's regs. I don't know if it would have been different in '86 (if it was you can do a like-for-like replacement) however it will be easy to tell a fd30 door is 45mm thick, fd60 is 54mm.

You should have an intumescent with cold smoke seal on the door or door liner. I'd go with brush over blade as they are less susceptible to damage. Fitting them is a peice of piss cut to length, peel off the sticky backing an insert in the rebate.

If it's too tight to go in you'll need to strip off the paint in the rebate I'm afraid. The intumescent material is contained within plastic and can be damaged by rough handling.

I wouldn't worry too much about the inspection, there are many things that they can pick up on and you should be given advice, and time, to make it right.

Before going out and buying any intumescent strips check the gap around the door, it cannot be less than 2mm or more than 4mm and should ideally be 3mm. If it doesn't fall within these tolerances, which is possible given the age of the building you'll be forking out for a new door and, quite possibly, a frame too.

Oh yeah, thought that was the company I ordered from last time. Err. Better check the chaos that is my filing system!

Ply from places like b and q or Wickes is always rubbish for sheetgoods in London builder depot is good but almost all sheet goods are currently at astronomical prices.

I wouldn't ever recommend wood work tops around a sink.

If you must do it:

1. Use a tropical hardwood such as iroko as it is more rot resistant than oak; be warned it's also much harder, heavier and prone to burning when cut with power tools.
   
2. Have a sink that sits ON TOP of the worksurface (realise this is probably too late for you)
   
3. If having a Belfast type sink have a good lip all the way round the sink and cut a drip into the underside.
   
4. Seal all endgrain with a penetrating finish and multiple coats such as Rubio Monocoat (natural)
   

If you haven't already ordered solid wood furniture boards may be worth a look, great quality and comes in other species too. It will come in thinner thicknesses than worktop which will make it easier to manoeuvre.

Errrrr marine ply has nothing to do with the veneer.

Marine ply conforms to the same adhesive specs as WBP (using the same test in QC; a sample is submerged in boiling water for one hour, the sample cannot delaminate) the difference between marine ply and wbp is that marine ply cannot have any voids in the construction.

The standards above are accepted by the timber industry and are laid out in the following documents (if you fancy some bedtime reading): (BS) EN 13986, (BS) EN 636, (BS) EN 314, (BS) EN 635-3.

ooof that was right on the edge, he nearly pushed the other guy off the tarmac." He seems to drive like the other person will always move out the way and when they don't there's crashes

Going on your description the only difference between him and one of the sports all time legends (a legend not a great) is one of these adorning his racing overalls:

Not really a working hard thing I need a vehicle for work with a large payload capacity for my tools and materials, I also need to take my family places.

The options are my truck or buy an older van and an older car. My truck complies with euro 6 emissions standards and gives me fuel efficiency that is comparable with my old van. The other option wouldn't and would cost significantly more.

It's hard. I use a pickup truck for work and occasionally cop flack from random strangers because I drive it.

In this country yes. Because they're a commercial vehicle you don't pay BIK tax. This is why mercedes rebadges navaras and adds a plush leather interior.

In the US the tax breaks are huge. An entry level F150 costs about the same as a golf.

I've only ever done it properly.

First one I did was part of a renovation in Earlsfield. We did it properly including lugging the whackerplate through the house.

It very nearly went horribly wrong because the labourer thought he could make it easier on his back by turning the whacker plate on and driving it through the house over the freshly laid French oak herringbone parquet. Fortunately he couldn't get it started in the time it took us to realise what was going on and (obviously doing so in a very respectful way) explain to him that a couple of bits of correx wouldnt offer that much protection.

Yes but the people who need them tend not to drive Porsche Cayennes.

If you need to work in remote locations with little or no access via metalled roads then you need a 4wd vehicle which encompasses most SUVs.

If you regularly need to tow large trailers then you need an SUV or something similar.

Live on a remote croft in Scotland and need to guarantee your ability to get to town in winter, you need an SUV.

The list could go on for some time. If you live in London the arguements are less convincing but there are people who are lucky enough to live between a remote country property and London (other large conurbations are available). So what should they do by one car for the city and one for the country? Strikes me as being considerably more wasteful.

ban on designing such vehicles

They really are a necessity for some people, what are they meant to do?

I've never heard of putting AstroTurf onto a concrete base.

It's normally type 1 sub base whacker plated down until level, then grano dust on top that gets brushed then whacked and swept then whacked again until it's billiard table smooth.

Ply doesn't steam well at all, even WBP or marine ply will start to delaminate after being in a steam oven.

Kerf bending is always an option but it will never look right if the kerfs are visible even if you spend ages filling and sanding it.

What is the ply faced with? Can you get the veneer without the ply? If so bent lamination (basically making your own ply from thin strips of timber in the shape you need) will probably be the way to go.

A few suggestions off the top of my head:

Larch is good for outdoor construction, it's very rot resistant. Doesn't look as nice as teak though, it's pretty cheap

Western Red Cedar is also very rot resistant, it looks amazing and has great tensile strength but it can be brittle and dents very easily. Not that cheap but cheap compared too teak.

Oak - pretty rot resistant other qualities are well known easily available not too expensive.

Purple heart is very hard, very strong and rot resistant. Tropical hard wood that is purple when freshly cut, you can preserve this colour if desired by treating with a UV resistant finish otherwise it will fade to a dark brown. Very cheap (for hard wood). This is probably what I would use.

It certainly delivers bang for your buck.

Also if you use it in a table it's great as it's designed to be easily converted into a table router and has a lift built into it. Plus for I think £40 you can get a router table top that goes with it.

It really is excellent value for money.

I really like the Triton TRA 001. Brilliant piece of kit but it seems to be out of stock everywhere. Triton also do a 1400W model that is less powerful but still very good.

As far as I'm aware the only known antidote is to rub a brussel sprout sized quantity anticlockwise into the hair of your left nipple under the light of a blood moon.