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I don't want to teach you to suck eggs, but I suggest that you sit on the architects plans for a while and really think about them, maybe even ask the architect to call you to discuss them.
Architects and designers are constantly trying to balance clients ideas / wishes with what we consider to be best design practice. There may be legitimate reasons for your architect to prepare the design in a different manner to what you've envisioned, and it might lead to a better result - but you'll not know unless you discuss the plans with them.After that, if you're not convinced, tell them to prepare a scheme based on what you've asked for! If they can't or won't, it's time to go elsewhere.
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Just be wary that 10 speed shimano MTB stuff has a different pull ratio than the 8&9 speed stuff. So a 10 speed 'DynaSIS' shifter (Deore, SLX, XT, XTR Etc.) won't work with an 8 or 9 speed RD.
If you want to use your original 8 speed parts with a 10 speed cluster, you'll need to use a 10 speed 'road' flat bar shifter - available widely.I'll drop a link to a Youtube video that is boring as hell but explains it all well...
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The simple answer is to cut the angles at the roof / soffit as accurately as possible, and to fix the boards with the bottom edge perfectly level and then install a bead/ripping over the top of the cladding to cover the small imperfection at that junction.
Also, consider castellated horizontal battens behind the cladding to avoid having to batten vertically, then horizontally. You can (probably, depending on local building supply) get fluted PVC battens too, which almost permit 100% of any moisture to vent / drain behind the cladding. That's the best option if you have that available to you.
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Bear in mind that larch needs stainless fixings due to the tannin in the wood. If you use non-stainless it will eventually stain.
I understand that you can use silicon-bronze or copper fixings too (if nailing), like with cedar. Both of those are likely to be cheaper than SS, and IMHO they look a little nicer too.
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A viable alternative to a window would be a simple vent - i.e. a 150mm unrestricted duct through the wall to the exterior should be enough to get passive ventilation through the space. best place would be up near the ceiling in the back corner to get a stack effect working. If you go that route make sure you chose a duct that has a grille that can be closed.
Good luck! -
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Hang the door with the head height set to match the window, and have a small step over the sill?