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You can see similar round markings on mine but maybe not as pronounced. I bought this cassette second hand as shown so no idea if the previous owner had his RD adjusted properly or not.
I compared mine to an image of a new set of 17-19-21 from an onine store. The teeth do look to be narrrowed down on both forward and backward facing edges but I don't see any sign of the hook or shark tooth shape you see in worn cassettes. I'd estimate the width of the teeth are reduced by about 30-40%.
Replacement cogs cost nearly the same as a full Miche cassette so I've got a Miche on order.
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I have a Campagnolo type freehub from about 2012. I'm trying to buy a new pawl spring for it.
The campagnolo part number is FH-RE114 and it has been the same part number for a long time even though I believe the thickness of the spring changed in 2013.
I've seen several sellers and some buyers mention the diameter as being approx 24mm.
The thing is the spring I have has a diameter of 20mm.
If I could just walk into a shop and buy one I would because they only cost a couple of pounds but with postage and everything it adds up.
I'm pretty sure a 24mm spring won't work as the spring needs to compress on the pawls to make them pop out.
Does anyone know what's going on here. Is it possible to get a 20mm spring? Did some manufacturers make their own freehubs that require proprietary springs. There are no markings on the freehub but it is mated with a Cole hub exactly like the one pictured.
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Thanks. Am happy with everything really but just did some last minute checking up on SISL2. That’s when I found those horror stories about cracking. Jesus. I’m more old tech than this weight weenie stuff. Should stick to what I know.
Were the failure rates on these cranksets high or am I just reading about the tiny percentages
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Have to agree. Have been on the lookout for this seatpost. Two sold on eBay recently at <€50 in quite good condition. You will see several with asking prices significantly higher but they don’t sell.
PM me if you are willing to drop. I’m willing to pay similar to sold prices on here from past sales.
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Well I spent a good 15 minutes tweaking it and I haven't managed to make it much better. It's not out by much but in some cogs I get a little clicking that tells me it's not perfectly aligned. It never fails to find a shift correctly though.
Only thing I can think of now is to thoroughly clean and lube the drivetrain and then possibly consider disassembly of the shifter for a clean and lighter regrease.
After that it may be a new chain and cogs.
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Bought the cassette from new and it was shifting perfectly through all cogs with a Centaur 2011 PowerShift Lever.
Here are the cassette details
Veloce 10s cassette
12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-23-25I only switched it out as I wasn't happy with the Centaur left shifter so switched the pair out to Record 2004 that I picked up second hand. I had to put a new G spring into the right shifter.
I will try fine tuning the shifting again but it shouldn't be this hard. Had no problems adjusting the previous setup.
SB6943 would make it a 1984 Ilkeston according to Neil McLean.
I have SB8117 which would be a 1986 Ilkeston and it also has original mudguard eyelets. It is a road race frame.