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So what would you expect to pay for this?

This is being sold for 450 Euros by someone near me, from the pics it looks to be in pretty good nick, though there might be a couple of chips on the down tube.
Campag drive train, Mavic rims, Schwalbe Lugano tyres, Shimano 600 brakes
Ratio is 53/170, pedals not included in sale.

What do you lot think? Good value?

Now I'm wondering if it's you guys that need your eyes tested - this person just wrote this (on a different forum) about my bike:

"Are you sure the fork is bent? If you base your assumption on this photo, it might not be correct. Not sure how exactly this happens, but the spoke angles behind the fork often produce the optical illusion (especially on photographs) of a bent fork when in fact there's nothing wrong."

I meant would it be worth the cost and effort to replace the forks. Obviously ;)

And if I replaced the fork?

I had a feeling they weren't completely true. Do you reckon it would be worth the cost/effort to replace the fork?

So I want to replace the current drop racing bars on this Peugeot with straight ones, mostly because I don't want to do my back in reaching down to hit the brakes. What's the typical diameter/width of bars for a stem like the one shown?

What makes you think that?

Shimano Simplex derailleur/crank, Carbolite 103 frame, Mavic rims h/bars.
I've never owned a road bike before, this one clearly needs a bit of work doing to it, I've got to decide whether to strip it down completely, clean everything, replace bearings etc, or just leave the bits on, check the wheels and replace the chain and start using it.
Decisions decisions..

Thanks, could you recommend any particular one?

Hi folks, can anyone recommend decent rigid forks in the 100 - 200 quid bracket to replace the duff suspension ones that came with this bike?
I want ones that are as geometrically similar as possible to the current because I don't want to dramatically alter the handling.
The current ones measure 700mm from dropout to top of steerer tube, but i'm not really sure which other measurements are relevant as i'm a complete newb when it comes to forks.
These Surly Instigators look promising, the steerer tube on the current forks is the same length.
Plus, if anyone is reading this in Germany, and has had experience of ordering stuff from Chain Reaction, i'd be grateful if you could tell me how it worked out.

What about some cunning tricks for removing decals that seem to be underneath the lacquer?

'cause it looks like crap innit?

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping I don't get shot down in flames for asking this question, but would it be feasible to use an electric sander to remove the (clear) lacquer from my aluminium Trek frame?
I don't want to spend any money on this frame as i''m probably going to get a new bike in the next couple months, so.. would it be ok to leave the sanded frame with out any coating at all?

Ok, this is a bit of a random question, but I recently converted my Trek MTB frame to single speed, i'm using a chain tensioner on an already tight chain, (before I took some links out it was jumping like crazy), that problem has now been fixed and everything is running pretty smoothly.... but one thing is bothering me; before I tightened the chain up, there was that satisfying ticking sound of the freewheel on the rear hub, now the chain is tighter, that sound has gone.
What I can't figure out is why the tighter chain would suppress the sound of the freewheel?
So this isn't really a problem, i'm just curious, any ideas?

Take a step back, one more, one more...

Thanks villain, i'm pretty relieved to hear that suggestion, I was prepared to shell out another 50 bucks for a different tensioner.

Sorry, here it is.. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ollied/5028928575/lightbox/

Here's another pic

No, it's not fixed, just spacers and single speed cog on a standard Shimano 8 speed +hub.

Guys, i'm really hoping someone can help, the pic below is my Trek frame with a vertical drop out (with separate gear hanger). I have a 44 tooth chain ring up front and a 15 tooth cog at the back, the problem is; the chain tensioner doesn't seem to be doing the job, the chain jumps with hardly any pressure at all.
My opinion is that if I got a different tensioner with two jockey wheels, rather than the basic one I have at the moment, the problem could be solved, what do you think?
https://a1uk.net/secim/Geogabby/DSC00684.JPG

The chain and sprocket are both brand new.

Hello, this is my first post on this forum so be gentle. I have exactly the same setup as the OP, but without such a bent gear hanger; my problem is a bit different, at the moment I have a 15 tooth cog on the back, and it currently takes several noisy seconds of the chain skipping forward to get going, and when you're stopping at traffic lights (of which there are plenty in Berlin) this can get f**ing irritating.
Would I be right in thinking that a better chain tensioner (one with two jockey wheels for example) might fix the problem?
This is one that looks promising, what do you reckon?