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Is there any better hardware for achieving this opening mechasim? Using a brass chain currently but it breaks very easily.

Ha thank you. I do think I'm a tradesmen worst nightmare.

Can anyone recommend a good tiler in SE London?

Thank you. Last sentence cracked me up... How long did it take you? (and how large was the room?)

Looking for a screw recommendation. I'm installing an engineered wood floor, 18mm think t&g stuff onto a 22mm chipboard subfloor. Manufacturer says you can install with mechanical fasteners diagonally through the tongue so you dont see them. I assume 99% of the world would do this with a nail gun. I would like to do it with screws because i dont have a nail gun, and also it gives the option to reverse it should I ever need to some day.

I've found these tongue tite screws that look up for the job, but they use a tx10 head and my experience with tx10 is frustrating to say the least (bits dont last long at all). https://www.screwfix.com/p/tongue-tite-tx-countersunk-thread-cutting-floorboard-screws-3-5mm-x-45mm-200-pack/85991
Does anyone know of similar small headed screw that is a tx15?

Am having a loft conversion done. Part of it meant I had to knock down a bedroom wall to make space for the stair case. I'm building said wall back it it's new location but am trying to decide if I should align it with the face of the stair case, which makes it quite not square with the room, or of I should build the wall square and have a big gap at the back where the stair case meets the wall.

In the photo, the level represents a square wall. You can see the gap I would get, it's looking like a wedge that will be 30mm wide at the back

What to do!?

Any tricks for improving the janky work the previous folk did fitting this flooring around doorways? I'm hanging new doors so the door stops are coming off but I'm very reluctant to remove the lining. I have spare flooring but can't think of a way yo get it in there.

Ta for this. Had the salesmen come over today, got good vibes so fingers crossed the quote isn't outrageous.

Coke ftw

Anyone have a recommendation for a loft conversion company? In SE London.

Anyone done any veneering? I have some rolls of 300mm wide oak veneeer that I'd like to glue to some mdf of same width and 2.4m long. Never done this before, thought I could just spread some titebond 2 on the mdf, put the veneer on top, another sheet of mdf to sandwich and then clamp them together with cauls. After a bit of googling and seeing people with iron's I'm doubting myself.

I need a sanity check. I have a tree that's been cut to around 8ft tall that I'd like to bring down. It's about 2ft in diameter. It's in an awkward sloped location so I don't just want to drop it in case it rolls down and smashes into something. Its too heavy to control on my own or even with a friend. It's also an Ash tree and perfectly straight so in an ideal world I would like to cut into planks and store to dry. So here is my crazy plan... I want to cut it into planks using my chainsaw while it is still standing. I was thinking of using a laser to mark some straight lines and then with a new blade and care and attention I could rough cut them into 8 or so planks and then cut them at the base one by one. Am I crazy?

Will try. I've found the trail but it just disappears underground in the garden. I dug a little and couldn't see anything. I'll get more aggressive.

Does anyone have any experience with ant extermination? Or a recommendation for an exterminator in London? The fuckers are marching up the concrete slab of my garden outbuilding, eaten through the dpc at at least one spot and infested the back wall, eating insulation and laying eggs. I've tried nippon liquid baits along the trail and in the hole but that just slows them down for a day and then normal service resumes. I plan on sealing the cill plate with some kind of heavy duty mastic to deter them in the future, but feel like I need to kill off whatever is inside the walls beforehand or they'll just find another way.

Yeah prebonded. Made more sense to me then doing it separately. I used 37.5mm siniat boards from selco. The prices sure have gone up though. https://www.selcobw.com/siniat-thermal-pir-tapered-edge-2400-x-1200-x-37-5mm

Yeah that was me. Two external walls in the corner of the house. 25mm insulation bonded to plasterboard. I stripped the plaster back to brick, fixed 25mm roofing battens then screwed onto those. The walls are noticeably warmer and the room holds its temperature better than the other bedrooms. I'm very happy I did it, especially with his bed tucked in the corner. In hindsite, I wouldn't have bothered stripped back to brick, it only gained around 25mm iirc, and it was a lot of mess and the bulk of the hard work.

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This. At the time, birch plywood wasn't the price of gold, and looks much nicer to my eye.

Looks great. Good work getting the boards of the door aligned with the rest.

My walls are plywood and simply held on with screws so I do have a relatively simple access route. Much machines and lots of wood racks all over the place so a total pita. I could also start remove cladding from the outside to have a look. There's also foam under the floor on the slab. Fml

What did you do?

I'm really regretting not doing a perfect job of sealing up every possible point of entry for these fuckers

How would you get this inside a stud wall?

It's a metal back box. I did expanding foam all the gaps so it could be that rather than the pir.

I don't know yet. I believe it's the foam insulation. Something is chewing it. It's coming out from all sorts of corners of the workshop. I believe I have some kind of insect infestation. Still in shock about the implications