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Frame size is usually stamped on the bottom of the brake bridge (or seatstay bridge in this case).

You can prise it open a bit more and then keep it open with a wedge made up of screwdrivers and other stuff found in most garages. Worked a treat for me.

Did you sell the SMP? If not, I'm interested. I have a Flite Ti as well if you wanna do a swap...

What's "monster" about this? It implies the frame is large, yet it's not. Much mislead.

Lost count of the spokes at about 175...

A wonderful and very very light piece of kit. I already have one for my Grandis, otherwise I'd jump on this. Great price too. GLWS.

I've made the doc editable by anyone now, so if you find others bars or additional data, please add them to the googlesheet. Howard - I have added your items in, thanks.

William, most of the ones listed originally I believe have 25.4 to 26.0 clamp areas. I'll add them to the sheet. FYI, Sheldon's cribsheet is useful here.

The list is in the attached graphic. Might help someone...

Plz add any further data via comments to this googledoc

Cheers. Ben.

Hey - did you ever sell these? Thanks.

Are any of the drop bars steel with single groove?

Got my tools. Thanks, they're perfect for what I had in mind. Cheers.

Dibs the rotor bender and the 10/13 offset brake spanner. Please. Ta Pm on its way. Ben.

I use one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/proops-Deuxieme-Gauge-bicycle-rim-gauge-0-72mm-bike-rims-measure-tool-/111647317689 to measure rim thickness. My recollection is that anything below 0.75 of a mm is dodgy (though I believe some of the very light rims are constructed with 0.75mm as standard!). Just checked, and Jobst Brandt took some of his rims to 0.5mm and wouldn't recommend it (http://yarchive.net/bike/rim_wear.html).

http://www.marktplaats.nl/z/fietsen-en-brommers/fietsen-racefietsen/gazelle-heren-gazelle-staal-titanium-61-tot-65-cm.html?query=gazelle&categoryId=464&sortBy=SortIndex&attributes=S%2C3519&attributes=S%2C3494&attributes=S%2C3517&attributes=S%2C3586&attributes=S%2C11379&attributes=S%2C11380&startDateFrom=always. I recently got a glorious 62cm Gazelle on this site for an extremely good price. The frame is stunningly well put together.

Forumm rules. If you put it on here, it's gotta be the only interwebby place you're selling the stuff. No ebay, no gumtree, no craigslist. Roolz is roolz.

Yes please. Thanks.

Dibs on the dura ace 7900 pedals. Will pm you.

Did you find the part? I just got some from ebay. However, I'm still missing the plastic insert that the barrel adjuster sits in. Did you solve that one?

Go on. Price the flite. Bravery is its own reward.

If the second bars down (the shiny silver ones) are steel, I'll have them plz. Lemme know...

There may be an extra ball in there or the wrong size balls. Or one of them is the wrong size. Actually, that first suggestion sounds ridiculous, so I'll withdraw it.

If you want to check the headset on a normal bike, you do it by rocking the front with the front brake on. On a track frame, you gotta turn the bars 90 degrees and then rock the front.

50p says it's "59"

The frame size is (I'm assured) engraved on the bottom of the brake bridge (the square bit with the bolt through it). Can you prise off that inevitable layer of London gunk and let us know?

Did you sell the Gazelle?

The slippage is almost always on the cogs at the rear rather than at the front. The front can get really worn before slipping. It's always a bit misleading because it's so difficult to actually SEE the wear on the rear cogs. Usually, it's the smallest cog on the rear that slips first because it gets worn fastest (having the fewest teeth). You don't tell us how many cogs you have on the rear - however, if you've spent most of your time in this 5th gear, that could be much more worn than the others. You could switch the cassette at the rear, but you may find it slips even worse because your chain is too worn. Get a chain checker and measure it yourself (everyone should have a chain checker, they're cheap and pay for themselves very quickly).