Search results for:

Dibs on the campag cassette.

If you don't want to use acetone for some reason, and the logo is relatively small, I've also had great success with sugar. Just grab a pinch with a towel or rag, and start rubbing. The sugar granules are just hard enough to abraded the printed logos but will not scratch the metal underneath. Also works on matte plastic. You wouldn't want to use it on larger areas because it's a little more work than acetone.

but I couldn't find a 1" fork that would fit or look nice on the 60cm red frame!

That's because the industry has moved on (for the better). Just get over it and learn to love threadless headsets. You say you want Dura-ace everything, but then why not a Dura-ace seatpost? You say you like everything to be slim, but the Gazetta is a modern steel frame with oversized tubes. It's all just arbitrary rules in your head.

Keep the fork, and use the extra cash to buy a Nitto ct-80, I think those are super sexy on steel frames.

Mourn and move on. Aluminium can't be joined by soldering or brazing (hence you never see brazed alu frames).

Did the BB develop a little play? Because that can cause the crank to move a bit. But yeah, the BB axle looks too short.

Dibs on the centaur ergos, will PM once I get home.

I'll take the X2 if you can do £40 posted to Sweden.

Would be interested in wheels and brake calipers if willing to split?

I would be interested in the shifter, the casette and the chain if splitting.

Second dib if Joel changes his mind.

You'll definitely need a hacksaw. It's much easier and safer with a new, sharp blade with the finest teeth that you can find - you'll want to avoid ripping the CF strands. Better yet, buy a carbide hacksaw blade if you have a few quid to spare. Also just remove the fork entirely to make sure you get a straight cut. You can get fancy cutting guides, or just do as I did and use two hose clamps padded with electrical tape and spaced a few millimetres apart.

Use even and smooth strokes, be patient and let the blade do the work, and for god's sake don't try to break of the last little connected bit by hand.

If you do end up some loose strands after cutting, rub them away with fine sandpaper, don't pull on anything. Carbide blades will not have this problem.

You can always use a threaded to threadless adapter, but I think they are almost always ugly, and won't eliminate the flaws of quill stems. But it will give you a wider choice of stems and bars. Otherwise, yes, you'll need a new headset, forks, and stem. Also depending on your choice of stem you'll possibly also need a new bar (newer stems are generally only made for oversized bars), and a shim to for the stem.

Threaded headsets did come in various sizes, but most likely your bike has a 1" one (check beforehand). Your choice of forks will be somewhat limited since most new forks are in 1.125". Best to look for NOS steel forks with uncut steerers. Then there's the problem of the headset, since most threadless ones are in 1.125" as well, so you'll have to look around a bit. SJS still has threadless 1" headsets, and you can sometimes find very nice NOS 1" Campag ones at various places (e.g. Hilary Stone), but again, they are not common. If you choice of headset does not come with an expander/star nut, you'll also need to find one of those in 1", again SJS has them. Also you'll need a stem shim to fit newer stems made for 1.125" steerers on to a 1" one. Consider it's just a beater, it might not be worth to go to all this trouble.

You may also luck out and discover that your bike has a 1.125" threaded fork, then ignore everything above since finding 1.125" threadless parts is pretty straightforward.

Redishing the wheel will not weaken the frame but will theoretically weaken the wheel. However the way I see it is that your 7-speed wheel has less dish than a campag 11-sp wheel anyhow, and those run just fine, so adding 2mm won't be a big deal. I have done this on a friend's bike - an 8-sp freehub shell was put on a 126 mm 6-sp hub and the wheel redished. She has ridden the bike for over a year with no problem what so ever, although she does weigh next to nothing so your mileage may vary.

Do it if you really want to, I'd imagine being ridden around London and locked to poles will affect its resale value too.

Dibs on "6. Cantilever brake up-hanger, unused, £2".

Interested in shifters, mechs and cassette myself. Just need someone for the chainset now...

PM sent on the XT brakes.

it's really pissing me off now

I have left off the ferrules for the brake cables

Now I am trying to fit the rear derailleur cable

the little bit of outer between the derailleur and lug on the frame won't fit into the lug, nor will that funny narrowed ferrule :(

The Campag brakes I've come across don't use ferrules, hence why you didn't get any ferrules for the brake cable.

The "funny" narrow ferrule is for older style of cable hangers that are simply a little metal ring - the thin section goes through the ring. Otherwise the inside of those "lugs" can be covered with paint (was the frame painted recently?) or oxidation. Try scrape it off with a small screwdriver.

Oh shit, I missed this, thanks Shanghaied, thats really helpful. I guess theoretically you could just buy a pair of xenon levers, buy a pair of the record lever parts alone, replace them and voilà, you have record levers hahah!

Well, not Xenon and not the new Athena. But yes, you could theoretically buy Athena shifters from 2010, replace the levers and get essentially the same shifter as 2010 Super Record. But practically why would you though? As I said the difference in weight is less than 10 grams.

And spare parts are EXPENSIVE. The problem is that we have been spoiled by large online retailers and their deep discounts. But most don't do spares. You have to go through your local Campag dearler, who goes through the national distributor, who will charge exactly MRRP since spares are such low volume items. In the past three years I have paid about £40 for a Shimano disc brake master cylinder cover (a tiny bit of plastic with a rubber gasket and two screws), around £50 for a Shimano hub cone and locknut, and just over £100 for a Campag alloy hub axle. In my case it was a little cheaper and a lot less hassle than for example rebuilding a wheel with new hub. I can only imagine what Campagnolo would want for Super Record levers. But why would you do that to perfectly fine shifters for the sake of 10 grams and some lettering?

Well, Campag has exploded diagrams of all their shifters under Technical Documentation on their website, with specific numbers for each part so that they can be ordered as spares. Each spare part number has a two letter prefix, so it's something like SR for Super Record, RE for Record, CH for Chorus etc. What is really interesting though is that the top three or four groups are basically exactly the same until about last year, ie ALL the spare parts for Super Record, Record, and Chorus (and Athena until 2010) shifters have exactly identical part numbers, with the prefix SR, the only difference is in the brake lever itself. I don't remember the exact number but I think S Record and Athena carbon shifter only had something like 10 gram difference in weight, which is easily accounted for by the different levers.

Of course since 2011 from Athena and downwards the shifters can only shift 3 gear at a time down and 1 up, as oppose to 5 down and 3 up for Chorus and upwards, so the innards were downgraded accordingly. But the lower end stuff still share innards, as do the upper end stuff. Which makes sense really, since there's only so much you can do with the tiny nuts and bolts inside, and it makes no business sense to make 5-6 different versions of every single part. This has been the case since at least 2000, before that I don't know since I was too young and had other things on my mind.

So to answer your question, not much, especially on stuff before 2011. Mirage and Xenon had plastic levers and usually has one gear less than the more expensive stuff (ie 9sp vs. 10sp, or 10sp vs. 11sp), Veloce and Centaur had aluminium levers. And the really fancy stuff, Chorus and Record, had plastic levers again (well carbon). I'll say this though, I've found the carbon and aluminium levers to be a bit stiffer than the plastic levers.

Right, that looks like the problem - when you tighten the cable in the clamp you do it with the mech at the inner position, and the bend around the spring takes up an extra amount of cable, longer than it would be if the bend isn't there (think pinching up an exposed length of cable with your fingers). As you shift to the big ring, the spring gets out of the way of the cable, and all of a sudden the bend disappears, the cable tension drops again (think releasing the cable you have between your fingers) and you end up having to shift that extra bit of cable too, and you run out of a clicks on the shifter - you reach the end of the ratchet and can shift no further.

I have both Campag band-on mechs and braze on mechs on adapters (Campag original), and the positions of the cages and linkages are basically exactly the same, so I don't think a band-on mech is the solution. The problem seems to be that the place where the cable goes around the BB shell is too far to the right, hence the cable coming into contact with the spring. Now normally if you have a little plastic cable guide on the BB shell, you can try and move the entire guide to the left a bit - Campag BB-mounted cable guides have a little slot for the fixing screw instead of a hole to allow for this, Shimano have two holes. That ought to get the cable out of the spring's way. Though I'm not sure if you have a cable guide down there at all, since you said you have internally routed cables. But if you do have a removable cable guide on the BB shell(e.g. the cables exit the down tube before the BB shell), move it to the left or buy a new one that would allow more movement to the left. Hope that helps

Dibs on front mech.

Plenty of fairly nice frames use the system on your bike, there's nothing wrong with it and certainly not worth taking a drill to it. It's going to be practically impossible to drill the hole straight even with a press, since there's no convenient way to hold the frame perfectly horizontal on a press. You also risk damaging the seat tube if you veer too close to it.

As moth said it's just an ordinary 5mm screw with an socket head, no need to "order" it from anywhere, you should be able to find it in most hardware shops or ironmongers. just measure the breadth of the entire seat tube brazeon to get the right length. But do check that you have the right seatpost size.

That is fascinating stuff! Thanks.

Found some more (less colourful) info here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic_bicycle

Hahaha, I didn't know the grant was to the tune of 6 million SEK. That's a LOT of money in 1980's, pre-inflation Swedish Kronor.

1. I've never seen a downtube shifter that had outer cable run right up to it. In my experience the only outer cable on a bike with downtube shifters would be to go from the stop at the end of the chainstay to the rear mech. As such, solving the following problems might have little effect on how well your gears function.
   
   
   

This is the most important thing, those shifters were not meant to be used with outer cables and cannot push against the outers correctly. on downtube shifters the bare cables usually go from the downtube to the BB directly. The stem mounted shifters were quite common, but they were mostly found on cheaper bikes because it was more convenient for the casual cyclist to shit from the stem. As mostly low-end parts, not many of them survived to this day.

That's probably not the reason for the notchy steering, since in my experience an interference-fit (pressed on) crown race actually does a pretty good job of protecting the metal it sits on. The Cane Creek headset is not standard is it? So it's more likely that the headset was not installed properly. It's probably just surface rust with some dried up grease. The steerer is the thickest tube on a bike by far, and it's unlikely to have rusted enough to cause concern in just three years.

I have Columbus Minimal on one of the bikes, it's very nice, but I wouldn't use it on a commuter, and I only chose it because it was pretty much the only carbon fork with a 1" steerer. Doesn't the Fuji have 1.125" steerer? No reason why you should limit yourself to Columbus and Surly.