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Just read you have the ONE cranks, I’d ditch those before a ceramic BB, for some hollowgram SI’s. Those ONEs are flexy boat anchors

Easiest way is to undo everything at the mechs and the callipers so you don’t have to mess about with the routing through the bars.

You’ll have to cut the hoses to get them through the frame, which means they’ll need new olives/barbs and a bleed once you put it together. The gear outer will probably but fine but trying to reuse cut inners is such a faff it’s not worth it at all for a £4.99 cable.

You’ll need to BB out to make access easier when refitting cables/hoses. The BB in those frames is PF30A, although that doesn’t really make a difference if you’re using the Hollowgrams, as the bearings are inboard not outboard, you’ll need this BB https://www.c-bear.com/en/products/bottom-bracket/pf30-bb30-fsa-sram

Are you the original owner? You could start a crash replacement claim with cannondale and they’ll most probably offer you a good deal on a new frameset.

You know BB92 and BB86 are the same thing? You can use a hope BB if you want, not that they’re any better than a WheelsMFG

Although if you’re running a 24mm axle, the standard ones are so cheap and last for ages.

I do agree that running a 30mm axle in a 41mm shell is stupid (I should know, I do it)

A 30.9 or 31.6mm seat tube would be unnecessarily stiff and heavy.

I’m just not sure this is true? Most XC bikes have been coming with a 31.6 post for years now

Also BikeYolk make a 31.6 dropper that’s lighter than a few carbon posts now.

The earlier, external cable 10s

Nope sorry

How much?

Not for sale

Built up this 2day

Honestly I can’t remember, and it’ll probably never be for sale soz

This is rad, interested in what you use it for?

No one wanted it so I’ve actually still got it and it’s my Mrs bike

What size?

Nope

Probably not. I fit a 40c in a v3 but that was with the rear end stretch out to 130mm

Does this count? I concede the tyres are probably too small, but there is a dura ace track crank and I must get extra point for having a disc wheel and forks but still welding on canti tabs

I have no idea sorry. I picked this up for £120 from their outlet store, I think it’s probably the new one?

Took this out, can confirm it’s much better at covering ground than the MTB. Although road hydraulics are pretty shit aye?
Also the tyres were way too hard, what kinda pressures are people running in 40s? I had these at around 38PSI and it felt rock solid

Got any photos?

Who ever spec’d this seems to be reading my mind. Wouldn’t change a thing

Disappointing how messy the cables are tho

I’ve rammed a 130 hub in the back of two pomp’s, without doing anything else. I’m still here to tell the tale

I’ve succumb to the fact my MTB is a bit sluggish for most “grav”, so I built up a cheapo build using a frame from the alp kit outlet.
The bars are incredibly high and I have a feeling I’m not going to like it

Probably about £600

I use an old front axle and two track nuts

BH90 and BH59 are cross compatible, you just need to make sure you use the correct barbs