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Tom off Fitzrovia Bicycles has a Martrac 753 lo-pro with ridiculus snakeskin mottled paint. It's pretty 80s-tastic.
I stumbled across that whilst researching Martrac, it looks great. I still have a few bits of snakeskin paint layered on top of the white. It's a shame they are no longer around, I would love to get the original paint redone with snakeskin pattern and flicked specks!
don't ever say "haters" again if you want to be taken seriously.
saying that, the bike is awesome. Plain black tape would work, but that caleido tape is awesome.My apologies, it was meant as a joke, it isn't a word I would use in everyday life! Thanks! I agree that black tape would work and it was my original plan, but the thought of using some showy Cinelli tape has stuck with me!
Second hand pedals, clips and straps on the way.
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The paint isn't as good as it looks - a lot of it has flaked off and there is quite a bit of surface rust! I was hoping to get a similar finish but I think it is going to get really expensive with three colours, so I've been looking at a single garish colour as an alternative.
Photo as requested:
Thanks for the link Hugo. That tape looks great! Definitely like the sound of some 90's Cinelli tape though, I'll have a hunt on eBay.
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So I know this thread will get a few haters...meh. I bought the frame off Allister who informed me it was previously used by Debbie Wharton and the kids at Herne Hill. Having hunted for a shorta**e frame for a while it seemed a perfect example. I've slowly built up a budget bike to get fit - eBay finds, Varno wheelset, System Ex etc.:
Due to the nature of my job there is no way I can commute, so I am purely using the bike to get fit. I've been riding it as you see it, but I am in the process of purchasing decent pedals, clips and straps, grips, and plan to get in touch with Armourtex soon (decals already created as Ai.)
This is my third bike since childhood...first was a Create - terrible, costly mistake, second was a Raleigh Pro Tour conversion - equally as bad, and finally what you see here. Pretty bad pedal overlap, but extremely smooth and responsive, and ultimately - helping me to keep fit!
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Was just about to checkout on Wiggle and thought I would ask if anyone has anything to offer please?
I am based in North London - currently on Jury Service at the Old Bailey for a couple of weeks so can meet in Central after 5pm.
Looking to spend £15-20 for a decent pair of second hand tyres.
Thanks
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I'm not sure if I'm being optimistic with this but here goes...
I am after a small framed bike with track dropouts, preferably a full bike but anything considered.
Budget: Around £300
Ideally I want a steel bike with tight clearances and drilled for front brake - quite specific I know.
I have considered a Fuji Track from eBay or other OTP options, but would like to see what second hand options I have.
Condition doesn't have to be perfect - as long as there are no major dings or dents or rust.
If you have anything please either post on here or PM.
Many thanks,
Andrew
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Ok, I have now found more information on VeloSolo. Am I right in thinking a late 80's Raleigh Nottingham frame with Lasco chainset will need a JIS bottom bracket?
I found more options so just have to decide on one of the following (assuming I do need JIS tapered):
Token JIS 103mm
Sugino JIS 103mm (slightly more expensive)
Tange JIS 103mmSuggestions please?
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I apologise for bumping this thread back up to the top, but I need some advice please!
Firstly though, thank you all for your help and advice.
Thank you Kerley. I don't plan on using the freewheel so will definitely look into spacing out the rear.
However, as a quick fix, I found two Token bottom brackets. I went to order one of them and then realised one is 103mm and the other 102mm. I then researched a bit further and found that one is 'JIS' and the other 'ISO'. I've looked on Sheldon Brown and read that it can cause 4.5mm difference in chainline.
This has now confused me further so I am hoping someone can tell me which one would be best:
The JIS one is on Evans, so I am going to pop down tomorrow and see if they have it in stock (if that is the right one to buy).
Sorry if it's a stupid question. I have a suspicion that it might be!
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Brilliant, thanks Pifko. Had a quick browse and Token seem to do one for around £20, very limited supply everywhere though from what I can see. Any other suggestions?
Is there an online tutorial for spacing out the rear hub? I kept looking at it today thinking that was all I needed but the cog is right on the edge so I don't understand how it would work? Or am I overlooking something obvious and being a bit stupid?
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Is that taking into account the new measurement with the chainring swapped over to the inside or the original figure of 10.5mm difference between front and back?
If the Shimano is 110mm and I went for a 104mm would this equate to the chainring being closer by 3mm considering the total difference is 6mm (3mm for each side)?
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Thank you Rosmal, I'll do a little Google searching for the bottom bracket.
Although, I just swapped the chainring to the inside of the spider and now have it down to 48mm. I checked the chain and still have tight and loose spots at different points of several revolutions of the pedals (forgot to mention this previously).
I'm not sure about the minimum bottom bracket width. These are the cranks in question:
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Hi, a few things to start the post:
I promise I genuinely have searched the forum for an answer to my problem and there are very similar threads, however having read them all I am now more confused than before!
My first post was in the 'Newbie' section and explained the error of my ways concerning the (regrettable) purchase of a Create bike. It broke after one month, I don't want to talk about it! Let's just say it was an impulse buy and it was only intended to get to uni and back until I could afford something better. I am now in the possession of the below bike which I have only swapped over the wheels from the Create until I can afford something better.
I am no expert with all of this, so please go easy on me!
Rightyo, I apologise...this is going to be a long post!
I initially swapped over the chainset from the Create bike, this consisted of a 44t chainring and 165mm crank arms. The bottom bracket is now a cheap Shimano UN25 which is 110mm in length. I also have a Lasco chainset which I have tried (same spec as before) but have the same problem which I will explain.
The Create wheels have a flip-flop hub and the fixed cog is 17t.
The rear fork spacing is 130mm.
The chainline on the rear is 42mm. The front is 52.5mm.
This is how it looks with the above installed:
As you can all (hopefully) see, it is quite a way off.
The original chainset is a Sakae Roundtech 2. This fits perfectly and creates a perfect chainline (42mm on the front):
Am I right in thinking it's not possible to disconnect the chainrings and get shorter bolts due to how these are made?
So there is my problem. From what I can tell the Lasco chainset and Shimano bottom bracket cause a 10.5mm difference between the front and back. It looks as if I don't have enough space for a shorter bottom bracket. If I do, then would it be a 100mm bottom bracket and does it exist?
Alternatively I need a new chainset. This is quite hard to explain, but the spider on the Sakae sits in closer to the chainring compared to the Lasco causing a shorter distance between the middle of the tube and the middle of the tooth on the chainring. What would my options be for a new chainset?
Please bear in mind that I recently graduated from a very, very expensive Uni course (materials, printing etc.) and I am on a budget!
Again, please excuse the lack of technical knowledge and terminology, I am a beginner when it comes to all of this, but I am enjoying learning everything, slowly and painfully!
Any help and advice greatly appreciated.
Andrew
That is genuinely impressive! I wouldn't know where to start with mine - the white base coat would be easy enough to restore, but the blue and pink layers are beyond restoration (I think - I'm no expert!). As Danno said, there is a snakeskin pattern on the TT and fork, which would be very difficult to restore. I am coming round to the idea of getting it fully resprayed exactly as it should be, but I fear it will cost way too much as it would be a full custom job. There was a guy on here who sprayed frames as well as vehicle bodywork and his work looked amazing, I'll have a search and get in touch with him to weigh up my options.