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Oooh.
I know the answer to this one!

I don’t think Pro Vis 5 would be great for track (if that’s what you’re going to use them for) as the small BCD leads to flex (track is about the only place I’d think this could be an issue.
Also an expensive choice.
Spa Cycles does a big range of TA stuff.

I’d recommend getting a top quality chainset with a fucked pedal thread and getting Highpath Engineering (or someone else possibly l) to shorten them.

https://highpath.co.uk/crank-repairs-and-modifications/

Brilliant (for me)
Here or DM?

Nice (beginning of a) rack
Did you try bending stainless?- it where a project of mine is headed.

Thanks Hippy.
I’ll peruse that thread later.
Looks like my kind of stuff.

Is there a thread on here about building your own racks?
(My search skills are rubbish)
I have a mini pipe bender and a mapp gas torch and I’m raring to go.
(I might actually have a mate braze it because I have no idea what I’m doing)

I haven’t put them in yet.
I thought I’d test the innards first and it got late last night …

My engineer mate said silicone on the back of the capacitor will be fine , but I need to work a way to mount the little B&M clear lens that fits over the LED (I have to rotate the PCB by 90° to fit it inside the red lens)

Nitto Porteur bars
Mafac inverse levers
Cinelli 1A
MicroSHIFT thumbie for Sram 1x12 Eagle

I’ve had these bars and levers for about 15 years - that’s how long I’ve been meaning to build a porteur (since I saw them in Jan Heine’s book) (edit - just looked it up, that book was published 18 years ago! Time I got this bike built)

VO rack.
I’m going to get a mate to braze in a stainless lamp support which will allow me to run all the wires hidden from hub to the front light (B&M IQ xs) and then to the rear.

Last night I was fucking around with this 1940s/50s Luxor light.
I’m going to cram in the innards from a Busch and Müller Seculite Skully gave me, but I had to make a new mount and way to secure the lens.
It was brilliantly frustrating.
Think I’ve nailed it.

Edit: I realised this post isn’t clear, I made (fabricated is definitely too posh a word) the little ally bracket from some tube I had.
I flattened it, bent it, drilled and tapped it. It replaced the original Luxor incandescent bulb holder which the red dome bolted to, I re-sized the original bolt to M4 (it was close already and I had an M4 tap and die)
There is now enough room for the gubbins from the busted B&M rear light and the red dome is held in place.
Only took all fucking evening!

This tourer is in part(s) my first proper bike.
The Campag 8sp triple I bought new in the early 90s, the Hope tandem hub I had built into a wheel by Helmut at Sonic cycles and he did some frame repairs - I was gilding a turd tbh. (he was a great frame builder - on Lambs Conduit St) don’t know why Campag or Hope, I think I blame Cycling Plus for both)
Originally it had a metallic green Holdsworth frame and a Blackburn rack, long reach Shimano dual pivots -which were a new thing back then, and I rode the crap out of it, commuting all over London with panniers full of tools and crazy loads- I rode it on the first Critical Mass I went on, which was only the second in London iirc and where I saw Buffalo Bill and the Moving Target fixies and thought - that looks cool.
I started riding fixed in late 90s when I lived in Philly and although I rode a version of this bike when I lived in Marin, it ended up retired to the loft while I rode a 50s Gillott track and now a fixed Pennine road frame around London.
About 7 years ago a friend persuaded me to join him on a tour from Knock to Cork down the Wild Atlantic Way. I took the parts off the old frame bought this lovely Evans for fuck all, splashed on the tubus racks.
It was an amazing tour. The bike was a beaut, as was Ireland.
It’s been on a few tours since but was being really underused until I needed to tow my daughter to nursery in her Croozer trailer (I did try it fixed over Telegraph Hill 🤦🏻‍♂️).

So anyway, it’s become a useful beast of burden and there’s a lot of love for it in a Trigger’s broom way.
I don’t need all the racks, or a triple and I have some parts I’ve been meaning to use, including a VO porteur rack and a dynamo hub wheel I built under close supervision from @Skülly.
A 1x porte(u)r fits the bill.
I’ve got some nice and fun bits to put on it and I thought I’d start a thing here to keep me motivated and show off a bit.

🤪

My thoughts exactly old boy

I reckon a glob of silicone is the answer.

While I’m on the subject, is this part the capacitor for the stand light?
Anyone know if mounting the PCB/LED assembly onto an aluminium frame/armature using a dab of silicone on the back of it will be ok?

Yeah.
I’ll bring it over with beers - I haven’t got the wheel/light/rack set up in the Porter yet.

👏

Thank you.
I (and Skully) thought this would be the case.

It’s not an ‘earth’ though, is it?
I’ll be using two wires from the front light so I can just cut it off.
🙂

Any idea what the 3rd wire is for?
It’s attached to the mounting bolt.
Is it to allow the frame to act as half the circuit?
Is it an earth of some sort, or a heat sink?

I’m going to try and fit it in here.

I got given this marvellous B&M Seculite by @Skülly

Me too, I have one. Same lens, internals etc as the £80 Son, I believe.
I saw @Skülly ’s and decided to get one. I’ve cut down the plastic mount and I’m going to make a 50s style housing and mount it onto an aluminium mudguard.

I’ve been looking at these - I’m planning two bikes’ lights atm.

What are the dimensions of the lens?

If anyone has a lead on a reasonably priced (my idea of reasonable will get shifted by continued frustration) silver Busch & Müller Mu µ please let me know.
SJSC only have in black and tbh £52 is a lot for something you can get in Germany for £25.

Yeah.
That would explain why the dynamo variant is longer.
🙄
And in my heart it is what I knew to be true.

It’s the opposite of what I’ve read about rear led dynamo lights though.
Bikeradar says;

“These basic lights are little more than an LED inside a suitable casing with a long cable soldered on. These rely on the standlight circuit within the headlight to remain illuminated when you stop.
More complex rear lights are designed to work independently of the headlight and are wired straight into the hub. These will typically include their own standlight circuit”

Annoying.

Is there a definitive online source for this info, Sheldon for the 20s?

Busch & Müller µ (Mu) rear lights;
There are two variants; the smaller version is most often described as an e-bike light, but I’ve seen it described (possibly incorrectly) as a dynamo light.

They’re pretty hard to find in the U.K. and are >£50 for something that you can get in Germany for < 30€.
Mostly they’re out of stock (in silver) or not available for shipping to U.K.

Anyway before I’d done proper research I drunkenly bought the smaller version on Amazon 🤦🏻‍♂️

Why would an e-bike light not work when powered by a generator hub via a front light (B&M IQ Xs)
The current will have been rectified to DC by the front light which also provides the stand-light (no?)
I know it’s not going to work (Sod’s Law) but why not?

Go to bed Skully, you’re drunk.

And yes, riding it did make me laugh out loud.

Hey SwaTee,
👋
Yeah it looks like it’ll work.
The lad is about 6’4” So it should work ok.
He’s just started at Guildhall so almost up your ends.
Maybe I can get him to come and pick it up.
( I think he’s totally clueless about bikes but I can get it operational for him).

I’ll pm you.

Fanx @Skülly

Thanks chaps. The decathlon ones look pretty nasty.

Any love for DHB?

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/dhb-dorica-mtb-shoe/rp-prod164174?gs=1&sku=sku606183&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=&utm_medium=base&gclid=CjwKCAjwlrqHBhByEiwAnLmYUC1vJ4vmRYilBf086lSYDeYnxbQ0_r3aXLLSbPu0j_vqKUNIw4MGCxoCPksQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds