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Its a Vitus. They just look a bit like Alans.
More on that here.Thanks for the link gaz, but now OP says it says Alan on the BB.
Either way, I'm sure it'll build up to a lovely bike.
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This may be of interest:
http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=16716The basic problem is aluminium oxide. Ammonia apparently dissolves aluminium oxide and is apparently recommended by Sheldon. Some also suggest coca cola. Caustic soda just dissolves the seatpost (in theory) rather than attacking the aluminium oxide.
Re. heat, not sure of the theory of this but if you are doing it just apply say, a hot kettle's worth of water. Don't bother applying cold as well. Some say the differential expansion thing doesn't work in this instance because the two parts are chemically fused. -
Nice looking build, good choice of colour, bit feminine without being too girly. Re decals these chaps are the definitive supplier:
http://hlloydcycles.com/ -
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Maybe it's worth marking Brooks saddles underneath with a 'symbol' or something then photographing it on your bicycle and keeping a copy of it on your phone. As they're leather, a permanent marker should be enough to indelibly mark it - doesn't have to be your name or anything, just a unique mark. At least if you have to get the law involved, you have something you can show them then and there. I know i doesn't help with already lost saddles though...
Most Brooks do actually have a serial number stamped inside them (underneath)so get this copied now.
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Personally I think we need a new post modern paradigm. The breathable, waterproof goal is a post war illusion. Why?
-how often do you get cold from the wind? Every day.
-how often do you get sweaty from riding? Every day.
-how often do you get rain so bad it soaks through to the skin? Maybe once or twice every winter.
-is there any fabric that is truly breathable and waterproof to the extent you need it to be when cycling moderately hard? No.The real solution is a windproof softshell with some shower protection. Like the Endura Windchill, just for example. Has roubaix back for breathability.
On the times it rains so hard the drains back up then get off and wait in a shop door way. OR just get a bit wet. -
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I just know I'm missing the reference here. And I've googled it. Comic book hero.
Looking at the message tags they say: nuts, penetrating, rusty. Which I grant is faintly disturbing. Did someone mention Duck Oil earlier?
And we are the saddos on lfgss at 7.30 on a Sunday morning. It's all begining to add up. -
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Yup, +1 for Plus Gas every time , easily available here and not on the test! Also in aerosol, handy for bottom brackets etc.
It's not just about the stuff but how you use it. Put plus gas on a seized bottom bracket a little bit every night for a week and by Sunday it will be easy off time. Putting it on straight away then expecting a miracle straight away is wishful thinking.
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Let us know how you get on.
In theory it should rust anyway from moisture in the air regardless of whether you ride it in the rain. Iron plus oxygen plus water = iron oxide (rust) every time.
But it does look fantastic in the raw.
I suspect that if you can oil it lightly and live with an occasional rub down with wet and dry once a year it'd be ok.
I got my Framesaver from Ceeway Bike Building Supplies an dit was a tenner last time I looked. But I agree with others, it's only with thin stuff like 531 and less that you need to worry about internal rusting, I think it'd be ok without.
I am not sure about the idea of heating the oil 'off' the frame. The whole point of the oil is to leave a film that blocks the oxygen and water. But if the guy says it works. I guess the whole thing is a bit of an experiment : if it don't work, you can always rub it down and coat it.
Or wrap it in cling film? -
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If you're looking to save dollar, you could build your own stand using this Roger Musson book. Click on the links for pics.
http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/contents.php -
I agree that drilling a hole in your BB is probably bonkers.
Insofar as water gathering in BB area is a problem, you can stop a lot of it by fitting an old inner tube at the top of the seat tube as suggested by a poster in the bikeradar article. Second, most moisture will evaporate through the vent holes, providing you haven't bunged them by following the other piece of poor advice in this article. Third, if you're really bothered about it, remove your BB every two months and give the area a wipe round with an oily rag.
Disdavantages of drilling a hole: it will let loads of water and corrosive salt in. The drilled hole will start to rust very quickly, esp if left untreated (the article makes no mention of eg painting the hole). It will contribute to seizing BB threads much more. If it was such a good idea manufacturers would do it. The only bikes that have it done at the factory are generally fairweather lightweight italian numbers that don't have to cope with uk winter conditions.
It's a shame that bikeradar knock out such poor quality advice, they should know better. At least the posters challenge it.