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Does the current version of the Cinelli Mash Histogram accept a front brake? https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/192180/ claims that an earlier version had a hole drilled in the fork that was plugged and painted.

New, unused, bought this together with some White Industries hubs and a selection of cogs. Located in Finland, shipping shouldn't be that expensive, ships as a letter. Price, say, 50% of the current price.

Specs: http://www.avt.bike/WebStore/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=COGFIXED14TK&Category_Code=WHITE-FIXED-COGS

After trashing my current steel frame in a stuck-seatpost-scenario, I’m in the market for a new frame, preferably one in titanium. It seems that the market for titanium fixed gear frames is extremely limited. Lynskey has stopped single speed frames of the road type, as has Van Nicholas.

There is the One-One Pompetamine, but do you know of any other single-speed cyclocross frames that take hydraulic disc brakes and have attachment points for the hydraulic rear brake cable?

Please suggest cyclocross frames with horizontal dropouts. Material can be steel, aluminum or titanium, but not carbon. If the material steel or alu, the price should be 300-400 or less. Disc or canti, doesn't matter.

Initially I tried to find one made of titanium. Now I've pretty much given up the idea since I could not find a single off-the-peg ti frame with horizontal dropouts.

To all you Cinelli Vigorelli 2010 frame owners.

• What width tyres will fit on the frame? This guy claims that he uses 700x32mm, but is not the 2010 frame. Velodromeshop.org.uk answered to me that the model 2010 fork will accept max 25mm.
  
• Are the drillings for front and rear brakes? My understanding is that the holes are drilled but that they have been plugged and painted over. Is it difficult to reopen them?
  
• What is the shape and diameter of the top tube? Is it round? The reason why I ask is that I’m wondering how to attach the brake cable to it. If it is round, then I’ll use metal brake cable clips.
  

Thanks for the suggestions! However, the titanium frame sold by CRC is way above budget, and the off-the-shelf-version of it (that CRC sells) is not belt drive compatible.

Retrofitting a coupler/joiner is not an option, since I neither have the skills nor the tools to do that.

Any other suggestions?

I’m considering building a single speed MTB with belt drive, to be used during the winter (studded tyres etc). The idea of using a belt drive is quite fascinating. I got the idea from reading about Phil Wood’s belt drive components.

Ideally the total cost should land between EUR 1,000 and 1,500. Unfortunately, the supply of MTB frames that would fit this price range seems very limited. One of the few ones I’ve found is a frame made by Nicolai, but just the frame costs EUR 1,000+.

I’m planning to build a single speed for my wife. Any suggestions on where to get a (cheapish) frame? The criteria is that it should be all white, have horizontal dropouts and have drillings for brakes, both front and back.

The lateral movement has increased, so I assume something need tightening/servicing.

I have laced the (White Industries) hub radially to Velocity Deep V rims.

I haven't previously serviced track hubs. Any suggestion on how to take it apart? More importantly, how do I replace the bearings?

After a few hundred kilometres on my White Industries track hubs, the front wheel has developed some lateral play (about 1-2 mm at the rim).

What is the process of removing this play?

What would be the best configuration for one aero brake lever (front brake) on bullhorn bars?

Currently I have a Paul E-lever and no bar tape on a Nitto bullhorn bar. The problem is that I would like to free the space next to the stem so that I could ride with both hands close to it.

Apparently there are at least two types of aero brake levers, those with internal cable routing and those with external cable routing. What is the difference? Where does the cable come out on the levers with internal cable routing?

The headtube on my fixed gear frame is about 74 degrees. To get a horizontal stem, I'm looking for a 16 degree stem. However, the clamp should be 26.0mm to fit Nitto Bullhorn bars. Any suggestions? Colour should be black.

Any suggestion on how to measure the headtube angle accurately (frame is a Brick Lane Bikes "no name" track frame 53cm)?

By mistake, a just got a Thomson Elite stem, 100mm long, 6 degree angle, 1 1/8 inch - 25.4 mm. Would be perfect for a different type of Nitto bars.The quality of the stem is absolutely superb!

I would prefer sticking with Thomson, but Thomson doesn't make stems with 26.0mm claps, nor with 16 degree angle.

(slightly off topic warning)

I’m planning to build a bike with gears. There seems to be a very large selection of high quality hubs for track wheel (I recently used got a pair of White Industries Track hubs and I’m impressed with the quality).

Any suggestion of a pair of road hubs (with Shimano compatible a freewheel mechanism) that would not have the annoying quick release mechanism, which makes the wheels very easy to steel, and that would have similar high quality bearings as the ones on White Industries hubs?

Which 3/32 chain would you recommend for fixed gear bike? I'm looking for some high quality chain in the range of GBP 10-30.

A black one would be nice, but it seems to me that the supply is very very limited when it comes to the narrower type of chain.

White Industries uses a splined interface for the cog. Thus, it may or may not be possible to add a spacer.

A very general observation on chain ring clearance: shouldn’t the distance between the chain stays, outside to outside, be smaller than 2 x chainline at the chain rings edge?

On my frame, the distance between the chain stays is 80mm 93mm from the BB (= radius of a 44T chain ring). Thus, with a 42mm chainline it is not, even in theory, possible to fit a 44T chain ring when accounting for the fact that the chain ring is a few mm tick, or is it?

Have I missed some crucial point? This is the first fixed gear bike I’m building and the chainline issue gives me gray hair.

The width of the chain stays measures 80mm on my frame, measured 92mm from the center of the bottom bracket, i.e. assuming a 44T chain ring. This 80mm is too much, based on the White Industries standards. What are my options?

If you want a straight chain line, given that the rear track hub has a 42mm chainline, I cannot use another length BB, can I?

Doesn’t this chain ring clearance issue apply to all other brands of hubs, cranks and chain rings as well? A 44T chain ring won’t fit my frame I want a 42mm chainline, will it?

I’m puzzled, is it really so that the frame (Brick Lane Bikes Track Frame 53cm) is incompatible with track hubs that have a 42mm chainline and chain rings that have 44T?

Ron, thanks for raising the potential problem of crank clearance.

I’ve studied the White Industries instruction and taken some measures. The instructions say that ”… measure from the center of the BB shell back along the chainstay 180mm. At that point, measure across the stays. Your measurement should be from the outside of the stay to the opposing outside stay. If the measurement is 135mm or less, use a 113mm BB.”

Given that the measure on my frame is 104 mm, I guess that a 103 mm BB shouldn’t cause clearance problems. Is my reasoning correct?

Thanks Ron for your insights, do you think that a 103mm Sugino BB would work with my configuration?

Regarding the chainring, I’m planning to use the 44T chainring that you refer to with a 18T cog and 170mm cranks. Since I’m not very familiar with optimal gear ratios I would very much welcome any advice or suggestions.

I'll try to be more specific, I'm planning to use the following parts:

• Brick Lane Bikes Track frame
  

• White Industries track hubs (42mm chainline)

• http://www.whiteind.com/trackhubset.html

• White Industries single speed cranks

• http://www.whiteind.com/cranks/singlespeedcranks.html

Have I totally misunderstood the chain line discussion, isn't the only way to get a straight chain line to choose a BB with correct axle length?

In this particular case, I got an email answer from White Industries that I should use a hub with a 103 mm axle.

Rod, what hub do you use?

I really like the looks of White Industries Single Speed Cranks. However, the bottom bracket causes some confusion. White Industries doesn’t make bottom bracket that would give a proper chainline with their cranks, which is surprising (!).

I contacted them, and they suggested a 103 mm Phil Wood JIS bottom bracket. I’m looking for something slightly cheaper, any suggestions?