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Really like that Pompatine build MDCC. Any issues with just running a disc brake on the front? i.e, any chance of getting thrown over the bars? I've always liked the idea of a disc on a commuter as the standard caliper on my bike is pretty much ineffective in the wet, but have worried it might be a bit too powerful!
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Thanks Ed.
If possible I was just hoping to get away with only swaping the crank arms over, I'm not concerned about changing the wheels just yet. I did look at the transmission database, but other than 'FSA sealed cartridge' I really don't know anything else about the bottom bracket, so might be a case of seeing if the new cranks arms fit, and if not then replacing the BB accordingly.
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I've got the 2010 model ("the orange one") and I'm pretty sure a few people will have changed the cranks over by now. I'm looking to upgrade myself, so was hoping for a bit of advice from others who have been there before me...
What cranks have you used?
Did you need to change the bottom bracket?
Is it possible to use the existing chainring and chainring bolts?
Any issues with chainline?Thanks in advance.
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A search did not reveal that these frames had been talked about previously. I saw this company mentioned on Pedal Consumption a few months ago and was wondering if anyone else had heard of them or used their products at all. Looks like the distribute them through BLB, TFG, etc, so was surprised not to find a mention of them on here.
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http://www.lfgss.com/picture.php?albumid=786&pictureid=936
I like that alot. Good job!
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Was tempted to start a new thread called Love Cycling, Hate Bikes, as I've had a number of problems with my bike over the last few weeks. However, other than ranting I realised I was going to ask for tyre advice. After a number of punctures (glass, thorns, pinches) in the original tyres (Continentals) and also with a cheap temporary tyre from Halfords, I decided to invest in some Continental Gatorskins. Colleauges here at work swear by them, and they get great reviews on Wiggle, so despite Hippy's view, I went for them. Two new tyres, two new tubes. Fourth time riding in this week and get a flat front this morning.
I need a reliable form of transport to get to work (as we all do, I'm sure), so I cant keep dealing with fixing punctures at 7am. The roads on which i ride aren't particulary smooth (pot holes, cracks, sunk drain covers) and as I couldn't see anything in the tyre i'm wondering whether its another pinch flat (the tyre was pumped up to recommended pressure of 95 psi). Now the dilema...I love cycling in to work, but with 2 to 3 punctures per week (ok, one so far this week, but I still have the ride home to look forward to) it's really not looking like an appropriate way to get to work anymore. So, I have a few options: sell the bike and put the money towards petrol, spend another 40 quid on some other set of "puncture resistant" tyres (which may or may not work) or get another bike/frame that will accept wider tyres (as I'm concerned that the 25mm ones I'm using just aren't enough for poor state the roads are in and I don't think any wider ones will fit in the Mongoose frame).
Anyways, sorry for the long rant but any ideas welcome based on your experiences in the past.
Cheers
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My yellow S&M Holmes, with S&M ditchforks and a gold Redneck stem which I built up using other parts from my old Haro Race when I was about 15. The frame was so much better than any of the other componants (terrible Redline wheels and a bent one-piece crank). Used to ride it to school every day, up the trails at lunch time and street at weekends. Ahhh, the memories....which i'd held onto it now...
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Cheers! I dont mind that suggestion at all!! As far as I'm concerned, the orange is the worst thing about the bike (i'm no expert, but it rides well for me), so when the wheels do go a black set of rims is on the cards. I've done about 2,500 miles on it over the last 10 months and the current wheels are still perfectly true.
The stem is still the standard one...it does look different with the drops though.
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http://www.lfgss.com/album.php?albumid=1488
Added some Cinelli drops, black bar tape, gold finger lever and Shimano SPD pedals.
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LR50 WFZ - '50' is not normally the way the year would be displayed on a number plate..if it was a 2005 van (assuming it was a van) the the number plate may actually be LR05 WFZ. Just a thought for when you give the company a call, I dont suppose they will be too helpful if you are complaining about one of their drivers.
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@d600: I'm not sure mate, but I'll have a look tonight and let you know.
Cheers Jim, thanks for the update.