-
-
Might have to get me some of these for the seta and try to build a sub 1k wheelset :P
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/FULLFUN-Carbon-Rims-700C-20mm-Clincher-Rims-Road-Bicycle-3K-Glossy-2-Piece-Bike-Rims/671471015.htmlLooking at the pictures i´m quite sure these are from the same factory as mine. But then again maybe chinese rims are like chinese people in the way that i lack the skill to distinguish them.
-
-
-
A 5871 g bike with steel frame and fork?
This is insane. First i dind´t know where to post it, but it needs to go here, something went very wrong during that build. You need to look at the parts list to understand the madness.• 1x Rahmen Stahl TECHNOBULL 753 Reynolds schwarz pulverbeschichteter Lack: 1635 g
• 1x Gabel Stahl TECHNOBULL 753 Reynolds schwarz pulverbeschichteter Lack: 637 g
• 1x Steuersatz Aluminium TECHNOBULL/O.M.A.S.: 122 g
• 1x Vorbau Aluminium TECHNOBULL: 186 g
• 1x Lenker Carbon Schmolke TLO Standard spezial -5° verstärkte Lenkerenden: 150 g NEU
• 2x Lenkerend-Schalthebel SRAM TT 900 tuned mit Alu- u. Carbon-Schrauben komplett: 130 g NEU
• 2x Bremshebel Aluminium BLB tuned by Steinbach mit Carbon-Hebel u. Alu-Schraube komplett: 54 g NEU
• 1x Schaltwerk SRAM Red TE limited tuned von XXLight-Bikes, Herr Kaiser: 121 g NEU
• 1x Umwerfer TISO Altore 366 tuned von XXLight-Bikes, Herr Kaiser: 46 g NEU
• 1x VR Bremse Aluminium KCNC C7: 58 g NEU
• 1x HR Bremse Aluminium KCNC C7: 57 g NEU
• 4x Bremsschuhe Carbon THM tuned mit Schmolke Carbon-Schrauben komplett: 12 g NEU
• 4x Bremsbeläge CORIMA komplett: 8 g NEU
• 1x Kurbel Carbon und Innenlager mit Ceramic-Lager THM Clavicula: 397 g NEU
• 1x Satz Kettenblätter Aluminium EXTRALITE OctaRamp RC 50-34 T komplett: 96 g NEU
• 5x Kettenblattschrauben Aluminium Face komplett: 8 g NEU
• 2x Pedale Carbon EXUSTARE E-PR 200 CK-Ti tuned mit Alu-Schrauben komplett: 171 g NEU
• 1x Kette Titan MSC Bikes mit 104 Kettenglieder: 209 g NEU
• 1x Sattel Carbon ax lightness AX.1000: 56 g NEU
• 1x Sattelstütze Scandium KCNC Ti Pro Lite gekürzt, getuned mit Alu-Schrauben: 77 g NEU
• 2x Laufräder (Naben Swiss DT240, Aero-Speichen, Carbon Felgen Reynolds) komplett: 1020 g
• 2x Schnellspanner Aluminium Tune Skyline komplett: 18 g
• 1x Vorderrad-Reifen TUFO Jet 160: 158 g NEU
• 1x Hinterrad-Reifen Vittoria CRONO EVO CS II: 183 g NEU
• 1x Kassette Titan/Scandium/Aluminium KCNC mit Lockring Aluminium EXTRALITE: 107 g NEU
• 1x Flaschenhalter Carbon B-T-P mit Distanzstücke u. Schmolke Carbon-Schrauben: 10 g NEU
• Züge Kevlar PowerCordz u. Alu-Zughüllen Fasi, für Bremse u. Schaltung komplett: 72 g NEU
• Öle, Fett, Aufkleber, Kitt u. Luft: 73 g -
-
I´d substitude: 2 jerseys against one made from merino, 2 t-shirts agains one made from merino. Socks->merino. You can wear that stuff for weeks without getting smelly. Have you thougth about a handelbar bag? Also i would make sure the windbraker ist goretex paclight or simillar. And i would consider bringing rain legs and at least a rear fender like the sks xtradry or even better, full fenders.
-
-
Hi. Does anyone recognice this framset and know where i could find a geometry chart? http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/2012-new-Full-carbon-bike-frameset-Full-carbon-road-racing-bike-frame-and-fork-3k/904551_611718155.html
-
Hi Coldharbour, sorry to hear about your wheel. From what i can see the damage might be cosmetic tough, and if all fails you could indeed glue it back on. Can you take a better picture of the broken off piece and the valvehole? I would also be interestend in more pictures of the rim. The fiber orientation of the top layer in the rim bed is a mess. The rim must either be unecessarlily heavy or dangerous to ride.
-
Getting epoxy glue off of aluminium is not easy. You sould not go beyond 210°C or so as aluminium will start recrystalising somewhere around there. But 210°C will only weaken, not destroy, the epoxy. So you will probably still need considerable force to remove the tube stubs. I would probably drill a radial hole in the stubs and atach some sort of lever to try and rotate the stub when its heated. Another approach would be to cut the stubs off with a rotary tool or similar. Good luck.
-
The glue you picked is quite comparable to the 3m stuff so i see no problem there. Most of the time when a joint fails its because of poorly applied glue anyways so much more important than the glue itself is that you use it in a way it can reach the performance it has in the data sheets. Do you know what kind of thermoplast was used in the original bond?
-
Plain epoxy resin is not a very good adhesive. I would rather use an epoxy based glue like 3m sw 460 or sw 9323. Also make sure to treat the bonding surfaces properly before gluing. Are you aware you are going to need a framebuilding-jig to properly put the frame back together? Also, how are you planing on disasebeling it? Heat? I don´t want to spoil the fun, just want to make sure this works out in the end. Great frame and good project, keep it up!
-
-
-
-
-
-
Another shot of prototype A2J.
Swedish designed, british carbon. Designed around a Storck fork. More here.
While it´s true that Storck uses the same fork, it´s not a Storck fork but a THM Scapula F. The A2J Frame it pretty stunning by the way. The layup of the top layer is pretty much flawless.
-
-
-
-
Lower stack stem and headset are the only save solution. But i don`t think that will be enough. If your a little bit brave i would suggest getting a propper shim and only using the lower of the two clamping screws on the stem. This will hopefully have the same effect as the usual spacer on top of the stem. Regarding the top cap you can do what you want as it is only used for adjustment and not supposed to carry any load while riding.
They haven´t. Some ppl at dahon (son of founder iirc) got fed up, founded tern and took their patents with them.