-
-
-
-
Definitely use a little bit of leader to test the fix. It’s always worth checking quickly before washing, You can tell if it isn’t fixed if it’s milky looking, if this is the case you can just pop in some fresh fix for a bit longer.
I’ve stopped using a stop bath for any devs that are longer than about 6 mins, I think water works just fine. Still use it for printing though.
-
Thanks for the advice everyone. I will borrow some Sony kit from work for a few days and take it for a spin using it in the same way I use my current Fuji. I do find myself shooting a little bit of sports stuff so I would appreciate the AF, and the handful of clients I do commercial work for would possibly be impressed with the resolution of the files.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Yep, I’ve done the classes by Gregory Halpern and Alec Soth. They are brilliant if you have an interest in books/ sequence/ working in projects. They are sort of like YouTube lectures, in which each artist breaks down their practice and gives you a look behind the scenes of how particular projects came together.
-
-
-
-
-
Depending on what kind of print you are looking for a friend of mine runs a great Giclee printing service, 4x6 is £4, you won't get better quality or attention to detail anywhere else. freshaire.co.uk
-
-
-
The Pyro I buy is from Zone Imaging, I tend to follow their advice and use Rudiger Hartung method which they give the dev times on the data sheet which can be found here, essentially it's just a brief agitation every 7ish mins and around 25 min dev times depending on film stock, water as a stop bath and a neutral fixer.
In my experience it has been worth figuring it out, I'm finding a lot more detail in the shadow areas and very low grain, although, the negatives are quite contrasty.
Amazing!