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very nice :) glad that sorted you out :)

Best way to remove a head tube badge is take your fork and headset out and file the back of the rivots! ive always done it this way as there is no way of bending your lovely badge :)

no anodising is going to stand up to wear of rubber break pads so you will always have a rubber brake line no matter what rims you buy :)

stick them on a fixie and dont use a brake ;) plenty of life left hehe

if you braze it you will burn the area your working with! but if the frame builders are careful it wont be bad!

i wouldnt trust glue personally because theres loads of tension running through!

has it snapped where you joined it ? half link :)

if thats all it is then ill do that. but havent i heard things about conversions wheree people have had teething probs? forgive me if i sound like im talking outa my ass but i still got a lot to learn about road bikes so correct me if im wrong

its actually a chorus braze on (brand new) all it takes is a 3 mm allen key to convert them! its easy :) pm me if you are interested

you sure you have enough stack height :D ?

i dont know what year but this is the actual item http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280422285768&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT Just pay me what i did £20 posted

why sell it? i have got a conversion if you want to buy it? then you can keep it all record!

coooool :) what headset you gone for then?

Feckers just won't come off, not by had anyway.

Might just fuck it off and buy a new one.

litle tip :) rest the cup on an open vice (if you have one) the gentley tap the axle! dont hit to hard and preload the bearings :)

there are different sized races for 1 inch headsets and forks.

yes but they all have to be a 1" race!

its does look like alloy but try the magnet trick :)

:) all advise really! that picture does look decieving with the few threads it shows :)

it does look like an alloy steerer but a better pic and a cleaner column may help ;) steel columns do tend to be more weighty than alloy of course!

use ginger beer if you like it :)

you can use it on alloy but with alloy being soft your not really gaining anything unlike steel! also the all crown maybe bonded to the carbon! try the coke can! maybe start off with 1 thin strand then work your way up until you get a nice fit!

i doubt there has been a bit welded on just how the fork was made? maybe post a picture of the column?

let us know how you get on!

have you tried e-mailing dawes warranty? surely if you have a frame number etc they should have some forks in warranty there willing to sell?

well, it is carbon and incredibly light then maybe its alloy steerer but with threads? i have not seen any carbon forks with alloy threaded steerers? maybe the numpty who filed the crown area threaded them? post a picture and that will indicate between alloy and carbon! but coke can is a very good solution!

and regards the centre pop! get a sharp pointed object, also an hammer, and hit the sharp object so it splages the material (column) there this will make the outside diameter slighly larger and help grip the race

this is a centre punch http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31YVGQE0RHL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

do you have a link to the exploded ? but im 99% sure it pulls off!

So I have come by a Record 102mm Bottom Bracket, like the one in the pic below. Unfortunately it's Italian threaded, and I need English. Notwithstanding the fact that the threads are a little mashed and the cups have some pretty deep pits in them.

In the Campag spares catalogues, the English cups are listed as BB-RE212 and BB-RE214 (same as for the Record Pista).

Assuming I could get hold of a set of English cups, does anyone have any experience of unscrewing the flanged right hand cup from the BB shell?

First of all both cups just pull off with a bit of pressure, the cups are a very snug fit on the bearings on the axle.

Do you have the italian cups or you going to purchase them ?

well, I got a cheap fork and it seems that it was filed where the crown race should stay.

how stupid is it to glue the race? I don't think there'd be a problem since it will all be compressed by the headset but I'm not even sure how I would glue it!

any help??

thanks!

First of all is you fork got an alloy steerer or Steel?

If Steel, you can either send it to a frame and fork specialist and they put brass around the bottom of the steerer and then ream it, this may mean a re-spray. 2nd option is get a sharp but broad centre punch and 'BOP' all around the race area (cheapest option)

If alloy, is it really loose that when you turn the fork upside down it falls off?....... get an alloy can (coke etc) and cut a very thin piece and glue that on maybe then press your race on!

DONT GLUE IT! GLUE WILL BREAK DOWN AND WILL COME LOOSE AFTER A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME! :)

foumd this on velosolo dont know if it will help?
www.velosolo.co.uk/shopchain.html

it called YST Threadless Bottom Bracket for Damaged Frames

if you read what his problem was and what frame he has you might understand it is italian :) and that YST is english?

Arnt Deep Vs like 580g, which is why im not going for them. CXP33s are an option, the place that sells Goldtecs which im going to get sells them at only £30 aerotracks are about the same. I suppose its ride quality over weight, which would probably be the CXP33 over Halos hipster wheels. I think they'll be the same weight, the halo site says 435g, most shops say 455g.

Goldtecs, Sapim Race spokes and Halo Aerotracks I think....

you wont have a problem with the Halo im sure, good wheel builder and you should have a strong reliable wheelset! :)

You could try the Italian to English thread converters from Ceeway at the bottom of this page:
http://www.framebuilding.com/Sundry-Components.htm

Yes you could but you still have to braze these in, probably just as easy and cheap to have a new shell brazed in if it comes down to this option.

:)