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Due to a recent race wheel upgrade - I now have this rather tasty 18 spoke front wheel up for sale. Beautiful Phil Wood high flange track hub - spins better than new, Sapim CX Ray spokes in black, and a nice 80mm toroidal section matte UD finish carbon rim from Speeder Cycling. All in VGC, only ridden indoors and never crashed. Couple of very minor surface marks to rim but nothing even close to structural. Vittoria Pista Evo tubular with a lot of life in it glued on with Conti carbon glue. Zipp valve extender. £250 including UK shipping.

Anything considered but need at least 200mm steerer length - what have you got?

Petrol

Definitely interested in the Wing Pista fork if still available?

Looking great and glad you are pleased with the bike having got it together. Just to try to address a few of the issues you ran across during your build.

Internal rear brake cable routing. I wanted to route it internally, really for aesthetic reasons. The only way to do this and not end up with a nightmare trying to fit and replace brake cables is to run full outer all the way. In my experience this can give a somewhat mushy feel to the rear brake but does not significantly degrade actual performance.

Fork crown brake mounting issue. This is an issue with some brake and headset combinations but not all. Ideally the crown would be a little deeper. This is an issue with the lugset which I have fed back to the manufacturer (Long Shen) and may well be changed in future. Ultimately there are only a limited rage of lug sets available and my choices are constrained further by the tubing and fork type I wanted to achieve.

Bottom bracket cable guides - again, this is a result of the lugset and not something I can do much about. As noted above using a plastic sleeve over the cable will give a smoother run and prevent wear to the paint.

Rear wheel clearance. This is one I do have to hold my hands up and say it is a bit too tight when using both large tyres and mudguards. The chainstays should really be about 5mm longer.

Sadly, overall the Osprey has not sold well, although those who have them seem very happy with them. For this reason they are being phased out and will hopefully be replaced with another road frame which will be rather more modern in style and function. So if anyone wants one of the remaining current Ospreys drop me a line and I'm sure I can sort out a good deal.

Sorry - realised the 3 cross is going to be a problem for me.

if these were going into production before Autumn 2011, i'd have one in a second.
IN FACT- i was waiting for that damn bike, as it was due this Season.
grrrr......

Well, they are going in to production in summer 2011, will be ready in autumn I hope. While I'd like to just be able to take every idea in my head and turn it in to a production frame, as a small owner operated business I unfortunately don't have deep enough pockets to do so. In the end it came down to a decision between keeping existing models in stock or bringing out something new. In the end I though it was best to do the former.

Is your pudenda included?

Bump - price drop to £160?

i also have a syntace F99 mega light stem on my singular

I wouldn't be so sure of that...

Yes, they were originally bought for a SS CX bike but it never happened as I got those Reynolds complete wheels instead.... I just don't have that much use for non-disc hubs really...

i want to see a fixed pegasus (or even get to race one at ssec please)

That can possibly be arranged, and I'll be happy to laugh at you on a fixie off road as I lap you :-) Oh, and you still can buy the hubs if you want...

I have a Cambridge audio phono pre-amp I'm not using. £20 posted?

One of these jobs http://www.richersounds.com/product/phono-pre-amps/cambridge-audio/540p/camb-540p-blk

Mine is silver though, very little use as I got a nice old Marantz receiver with a good built in phono stage not long after buying it.

The shed clear out continues. I'd forgotten I even had these. One pair of Paul Components high flange hubs. 32 h front and rear, rear is fixed/free flip flop 130mm OLN (lock ring & bolts supplied), front is QR. Anodised in blackest black. BNIB, never built.

£170 the pair posted in the UK? Paypal possible, bank transfer preferred, cash in hand at the tweed run even better.

Thanks,

Sam

One is the frame manufacturer's, and one is the brand's. Keep a record of them both I'd say. The mfr will have a system of numbering they use, and the brand will have another - so the manufacturer stamps both on the shell.

Oh, sorry, also should have mentioned there is a big difference between hollowtech and hollowtech 2. The first generation used an oversized hollow bb axle and stuffed it all in a standard sized shell. this necessitated use of much smaller bearings and these definitely do suffer from shorter bearing life. However when it all went external the bearings increased in size again and it's all good. As in the previous post though externally mounted bearings rely on a correctly faced bb shell and a closer range of torque tolerance than square tapers.

Originally Posted by TheBrick(Tommy)
What the consensus out there on middleburn cranks? I'm really temped by a (second hand) pair of these. Are they worth the money? I'm not so keen on hollowtech as researching into them the baring don't seem to have very good longevity, I'd rather have longevity.

..................

So why do they appear to have a shorted life?

IME it's primarily because people install them incorrectly. Overtightened and/or on un-faced bb shells which side loads the bearing and dramatically reduces their life. In the five years or so I've been using external bb's I haven't noticed any significant difference in longevity.

Sam

Brilliant news!

I've always been a fan of the Singular brand and like your approach to bike design. I'm just a bit short to fit the models I would be most interested in. My idea of the perfect utility bike would have cyclocross geometry and clearances, a simple hub gear, disc brakes, full mudguards, and a rear rack.

The Peregrine looks to fit the part perfectly, while looking nice to boot. I shall keep em peeled ;)

(PS, is that really a 74.4 head tube angle?)

Thanks for the kind words.

Drop me a mail if you like and I will keep you up to date with developments. The head angle is 71.0. The angle you are looking at is that between the head tube and the top tube, there is an upslope (of 3.4 deg) to the top tube.

Cheers,

Sam

With you on the Peregrine.
Just thought a lower TT might be a better idea for a shorter person riding off-road. I could'nt stand over the small :(

Here are some basic drawings for ideas of a XS Peregrine (50cm seat tube, 51 TT) designed for use with 700c x 32mm or 650b x 50mm if you want some big dirt tyres. Would probably also ride fine with regular 26" tyres.

700c
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2783/4443627045_9d5eb4cd02_o.jpg

650b - big un's
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4443627121_2848430325_o.jpg

Hopefully we'll have them the back end of June.

Sam

Just been throwing some bits at a frame for my Dad's bike - looking pretty good. I'm definitely going to Fit 50mm Schwalbe Big Apples with the widest (60mm?) Berthoud 'guards.

We'll have a couple of nice Peregrine builds at the Tweed Run. I'll be on a fixie resplendent in Berthoud stainless guards, Phil hubs, and a bit of Nitto. My Dad'll be on a more townie style with freewheel.

Damn, unfortunately couldn't make it though had an entry - Dom is representing though. Should nearly be done...

If you're just using it for commuting then any standard road rim is probably the best idea. Lighter than touring/29er rims and strong enough for purpose.

If you're commuting I think you'd find midges or similar far too wide (unless you have the joy of a predominantly off-road commute) I really like the new FSA k-wing bars I've got on my new cross bike, they also do a cheaper alloy version but I couldn't find them anywhere so got sucked into the carbon ones as they were on special at CRC. They are a decent width but if they did a 48 or a 50 I'd be much happier off road. For road use they are perfect (in fact I ordered another set for my road bike...).

I would definitely recommend going for road pull cable discs rather than mtn pull drop levers. The feel is much nicer plus you can use a much wider range of levers and (god forbid) STI's if you ever fancy putting gears on there. The Nitto randonneur bars are also really nice for commuting/touring (they're what I have on my touring build Peregrine) but also a little hard to get hold of. Try Will at HubJub. In a 48 though I find them more than wide enough for road use and they have a really nice shape to them.

Are your cranks WI enos? They should be fine, you'll need at least a 113mm bb spindle.

If you need any more info feel free to mail me.

Sam