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Colours on the frame are dreadful (although the fork's rather tasty on its own - I had that lying around in the loft). Someone did a real hatchet job trying to DIY repaint the frame. It's got some pink, lilac and black - all matt paint, presumably sprayed on in a hurry, given the drip bobbles on the underside of the tube, and no lacquer, so it's chipping.
Still, I got the frame for £10.50 on eBay, and it is structurally in good nick, so I'm happy. Replaces the previous beater's frame which I discovered last weekend has a broken chainstay. Previous beater was built from bits I had lying around + new brake cables and a very cheap new fixed gear rear wheel (with sprocket). Real budget bike (total cost ~£60), but it goes quick :-)
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Yeesh. That'll be a fun project for someone, but agree, it would be a real shame to junk it. Wonder whether it would be possible to cut and file off the seat clamp and then use a quick release clamp (or allen key version) instead.
Of course, all that's assuming that it is possible to remove the offending seat tube
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I'm thinking of entering this: http://www.thelondonduathlon.co.uk/
Can anyone give me some tips on what I need to do for transition? I assume you don't just wear normal trainers and sit down to casually slip off the Sidis and lace them on?
Also, can I just pop tri bars on my road bike? The ones I've seen don't have brakes - seems very iffy to me.
If you live in/near London, I would recommend doing one of the RG Active brick training sessions (just google RG Active and you'll find it). These basically teach you how to do transitions. I have competed in the London Duathlon twice, and each time, the weekend before, I completed their brick training session in Richmond Park, which I found really helped get me ready.
You can put tri bars on your road bike if you want them - in the first couple of years I competed, I never bothered and just rode with normal drop bars - not a big deal. There'll be plenty of people competing on mountain bikes or hybrids!
London Duathlon is a really fun event. A bit expensive, but well run and a super atmosphere. I highly recommend it.
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Awesome, thanks guys!
^^ Dutch Cheese: regarding those being sold on marktplaats, I wonder why they are selling 3 wheels... Given that one is a rear, perhaps I should build my toddler a tri-recumbent too!
As it happens, following my post I just did one last quick check on ebay, and a new item had come up since my last search: a pair of 11" plastic wheels complete with tyre and (I believe) foam core - £6 each. So looks like I am sorted!
Still quite tempted by the idea of a baby-recumbent... Although I have no welding skills (something I seriously need to develop) and I am not convinced about building a wooden recumbent...
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Anyone know where I can get 12" (small) kids' bike wheels? Preferably cheap.
Something like the ones you find on either of these would do fine:
Extensive Google searching (and lfgss searches) has not yielded a retailer for small bike wheels (admit my searching skills may not be sufficiently good).
The best I have found so far is replacement wheels for a bugaboo stroller, but they are very expensive (even on ebay) so just not worth it for the project I want to do (making a balance bike for my son - have plenty of spare wood and think it will be fun to do).
Thanks
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A picture of the bike would really help...
1) Per my response to your other thread, not convinced you want a 73mm BB. Course, I can't say definitively, but if it is a road frame, I would be fairly certain you need a 68.
2) 49mm chainline means you have loads of options. The cheapest of which might just be to move the chainring from the outside of the spider to the inside (which might be enough to get the chainline bang on as it is).
FWIW, my back wheel / sprocket combo gives me a chainline of barely over 40mm, which means I needed the shortest possible BB (103mm) AND I had to put the chainring on the inside of the spider (I bought Eighthinch cranks / chainring). Lucky my chainstay was crimped (can't remember the proper term), which means I don't have a chainring clearance problem.
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My mid(?)-80s pug is a road frame ("Carbolite"; nothing particularly special). BB is English threaded. I fitted a 68mm BB cartridge. The 103mm Tange one from Velosolo in fact:
http://www.velosolo.co.uk/shopchain.html
(5 or 6 items up from the bottom) -
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Not sure if its because the the quill has an expander at the bottom or what but its doesn't seem right to me.... It does go quite a bit down the tube, im assuming that there is supposed to be a ridge to stop the bolt going down which may have worn out... got it off ebay so will ask thr guy if he wants it back...
Photo would help
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I would say get used to it, and as Skully says, it sounds like you have the wrong foot forward (or are turning the bars the wrong way) if it is causing problems with your trackstands. Good for you to learn to trackstand both ways anyhow (if you don't already) :-)
I have massive overlap on my geared road bike, but it never causes me any problems. If I am waiting at the lights, typically the camber of the road means I need to turn my bars to the right, and then I have my right foot forward. Both feet are then a long way away from the wheel!
Moving your cleats further forward than they are designed to go means your foot will be too far back for efficient cycling and the pedal axle will be under your toes rather than under the ball of your foot.
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Tjuice, are those eighthinch cranks on your Peugeot ? If so, what do you think of them...?
Yep, they are. Have not ridden them enough yet to really put them through their paces or find fault, but I am quite happy with them so far. They are approx the same weight as Miche Primato crankset (inc. chainring) according to specs available on the web.
Seem pretty well made, but biggest advantage for me is that they were a hell of a lot cheaper than anything else I could find (US $49.50 + shipping and duty). Given that, I am certainly not complaining.
My chainline is ~40mm, so I have had to put the chainring on the inside of the spider, with a 103mm JIS BB.
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I did the Sheldon method to respace from 126 to 120. Worked well. No visible impact on my new powdercoat (I did put a rag between the wood and the frame to protect the paint from the wood while I did the bending).
Read Sheldon's description carefully before doing the bending - explains how to get it even.
Repaired. Thx. IGMC