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It has plain sort lugs like those that we used to see on 80s SLs.
BB shell is untouched as concern the degrees that can handle
without any fillet brazing.
I think that the fork and rear dropouts are the most characteristic
elements that can lead us to a conclusion.
Purchased NOS (without decals) from a good old shop in Athens at 2006.
They was dealing selected frames mostly from Italy, France, Spain and UK.My best guess is Rychtarski and my second Dosi but i couldn't find even one
like this... -
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It's been years now that i can't find any info about this frameset.
Now that i almost kidnaped it to rebuilt it, i need all the help i can get.The only information that i 'm sure about is that this fork was the original
and was painted light yellow with light green gradients.
Its' BB shell is 70mm and been built for 650c front wheel...
thanks!
ps: seatpost 27mm -
It took me a couple of hours to catch up the last six months in this thread
and i'm happy that i found the most of you in great shape.The status stem is a nice part, not so stiff as the record 83 but nice.
The cover bolt is a fault that no one expects from 3ttt and splits the cover
when you try to tighten it a little more than it needs.
I try to save the covers using black silicone instead of the bolt,
something that works but still a pain when you try to make adjustments... -
Did they run out of paint on that?
(headtube,dropouts)its pearl white inside the fork and stays too, i think it was the nicest
finish that they can achieve without the risk of a major fault that could
speed down the painting...What's with the seatpost diameter?
its max OR (off road not oversize) and if i 'm not mistaken should fit a 30.4mm seat post or something close.
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first of all;
... You will learn by being part of the forum...
secondary;
porn is a desirable build, not necessarily useful, harmonic and beautiful for the majority of the cyclists,
preserving its' own period correct elements, while been built and photographed with so much care that looks like a professional work.personally, i think that a somec of a french cyclist will always be competent
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Over 2kg for a 55 frame it's definitely not an SL as far as i know.
You don't have to feel disappointed about it's weight, you will gain
more stiffness. Many beautiful bikes are close to 2kg.As concern the fork, just avoid to have one with its' blades been more
aero than 1.5cm (~1/2" ). Of course you can always have a pricey and light
columbus minimal 1" since you will built it with modern parts but you should
know that is a "race" fork and some people find its' feedback rough
depending on wheel-tyre characteristics.Every bicycle that makes us happy, collect water or moisture through seatpost
or bb cups at wet conditions. Steel bikes should always have drainers to avoid
corrosion from trapped moisture at lower ends.you will easily notice those that i propose for stays on plain steel bikes
that need them most. Drainers are a "detail" or an "extra" feature that usually
be absent on "team" ordered bikes cause they are cheaper priced and no one
believes that will last more than 4-5 years to protect them.You should measure seatpost lug on two basic axis.
First measure the longitudinal that changes more difficult and it's more
accurate. Then measure the transversal that commonly changes if you had
a smaller seat post than you need.for example; if you measure 26.88 the transversal axis will likely need to open
both sides (or the one that bends more) to gain 27.2 like the longitudinal
and the cutting faces should be parallel.
In that case you need a 27.2 seatpost that will insert tightly in lug.You can refresh - clear ST using a half of a sanding sponge (n80)
from a hardware shop along with a piece of hard cable.please excuse my english :)
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Looks like an early 80s team ordered frame. BB threads will tell you more about its' origin.
Looks like SL, if its under 1800g be happy about and don't waste your time.
If you are lucky there will be a columbus dove light stamp on the TT near HT
(if you don't sandblast it)
A lugged fork with 2" longer steerer than your HT will be nice and period correct.
In my opinion you should search for a flat lug that look like an arc as shown below.
http://www.fiataccompli.com/bike/photos/fork.jpgIt hasn't any drilled holes at BB or stays so if you want it last longer make
your own. A big one at the center of BB and the smallest that you can under the
chain stays (1" from BB) and inside the seat stays (1" above dropouts).
Its' bottle cage braze ons are too low on DT. If you need them higher
its the right time to change them.The seatpost diameter will tell you more about its age. Measure it carefully in multiple
axis and bring the seatpost lug in perfect condition before the paint... -
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You can always try a set of those.
I have never seen a fork of that quality with an 1 1/8" steerer. -
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Happy New Year to all!
I'm searching for a "modern" steel frame without sloping with 1" or 1 1/8" head tube.
(i can tolerate with 1° or 2° degrees slopping but not more)53cm or 54cm top tube (c-c).
In any cosmetic condition but straight and sturdy.
Mixed bond frames (lugs and fillets etc) are welcome as long as they have
traditional geometry and lightweight tubing.
No need for matching fork or any other part.thanks!
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Depends on the applier. You are right about the small evolution that
came to powder coating the last 10 years but concerns the appliance
of it, not much of the composition.
You can find shops that could add 90g - 120g of paint on a 56 frame for
example, or someone that could add several less.The main point is not the grams when we build our everyday bike (i hope)
but the quality that we gain in relation of the cost.
If a carefully applied powder coat cost more than enamel and we don't
need its' confessedly stronger characteristics (that we percentage loose as we try to achieve finer finish) why bother?
Do we need stronger paint than a slowly cured enamel?
If yes, the powder coat is a nice option.
Are we talking about single layered powder coat? one color, without clear coat or secondary colors etc, that could double the weight?You can estimate a single layered coat as double weighted instead of a complete
enamel paint including decals and many colors. That is not a weight advantage loss in
my opinion if you think that you need a more durable paint.I try to use light powder coat only when i think that enamels' durability is
except prescription of the use and anodized paint doesn't apply or create
a "confusion" depending the bikes' overview...this is an example of a fine powder coat that could be achieved
without causing trouble to parts' primary use, i measure it at an average of 0.1mm
Yeah... a Pinnacle Lithium whith a wheelbase of a lorry and gears.
What can i say, i do my best but i can't save every stupid little thing.
I'll try again when some junkie find a reason to steal this eLithium rolling piece of aluminium.
(with "e" sounds like "stupidium" in greek)